New DL-55 and DL-111

[brycesteenburg]

.

[closetguy]

You have got to cut corners where you can when you are half the price of a 3W,DA.
You should expect to do a little tinkering with a DL to get it dialed in,or in some cases just to get it to start.
Until they begin to fire the engines up before they are ship,your going to run into things like that.

[Tired Old Man]

Which brings about another issue. Once an engine has been run, further shipping has to be performed as a HazMat item. If the postal equipment gets even a little sniff of hydrocarbons the shipment is siezed if not correctly labeled. I've had this happen.

[plowboy]

And us shipping supply salesmen love to charge extra for correctly labeled and packaged haz mat materials.



Pat, what is my best option for making sure the 111 isn't too loud. I know the right prop will probably make the most difference and possibly cans. I'm just not sure the cans help enough to warrant the cost in treasure and weight. I'll fly my Extra a bit in IMAC but I'm really not that serious about it. We do have neighbors around our field and I don't want to contribute to any ruffled feathers. My plane/engine combo (Extra 260/111) is the same as Brian's. His plane is louder than I think it should be even with cans. (I believe they are MT cans.) I'm just not sure how much of that is prop noise. I think he is running a XOAR 27 X 10.

[jamesrxx951]

plowboy i fly imac but i use full exhaust. but in your case you will be fine with a mezjlik 27/10 or 28/10 prop, and typical stock style mufflers. just don't fly balls to the wall and you will be fine. if you find that in your area to keep neighbors happy get a set of mtw 75k cans. i used them last year and very quiet. but im sure any mtw or ks cans are plenty quiet enough. re2 tuned pipes are plenty quiet and provide that additional power.

[plowboy]

Thanks James! I am hoping that a Mej 28 X 10 and stock exhaust will work. It may take some will power and throttle management too, I guess.

[jamesrxx951]

	Quote: Originally Posted by plowboy
	Thanks James! I am hoping that a Mej 28 X 10 and stock exhaust will work. It may take some will power and throttle management too, I guess.

i believe tom posted some props that go well with the dle111 but im sure that 28/10 will be just fine.

[Tired Old Man]

Plowboy,

The club found the Fuchs 27-10 to be acceptable noise wise where they did not like the laminated wood 27-10 at all. The laminated wood prop I was using was an older design BME blade type. Very similar, if not exactly, the shape of a standard Xoar propeller. PAU has their 27-3dB blade shape that may fall within acceptable limits but you'd have to buy and try to find out.

Mejzliks spin a lot of rpm without a lot of additional benefit. More rpm equals more noise in most cases due to increased tip speeds with same size props. Blade shape, width, tip thickness, and tip cross section also appears to have a lot to do with noise level. Some work I've been doing of late clearly reveals the prop to be a significant noise source. 80 to 90+ dB all by itself. Tone also impacts perceived noise level.

[plowboy]

Has anyone looked at the effects that spinners have on noise? I know from pylon racing to try and narrow the spinner enough to get the most 'bite' out of a prop. Could it be that wide spinners are not letting the prop bite enough at the root and, subsequently, increasing rpm and tip speed? Would your prop on your engine sound the same with or without a spinner? I just might run without one myself as this plane builds out a little nose heavy anyhow.

[jamesrxx951]

the only experiance i've had with spinner noise was on my 100cc extra. i was using a fiberglass spinner but the blade holes were alot wider than the blade. i later changed to a carbon fiber spinner and cut the spinner perfect to the blade with very little clearance. it was quieter. not night and day change but noticable. a fellow imac friend told me that the biggest thing you can do for noise is throttle control,all the other stuff helps but throttle control is key.

[plowboy]

Thanks again James.

[bmclaughlin]

	Quote: Originally Posted by RCEXTREMEPOWER
	I have spent hours trying to get a engine to run right with a brand new carb and just finally tossed it, put on a new one and problems went away. Of all the 15 or so years I have been working with gas engines, I never had the problems we are having with Walbro carbs until I started getting them on engines from Asia, Everything from bad castings to float needle not seating and some that just have small casting cracks in them that allow air leakage and no way to tune them. I have a box here that has about 30 carbs from the last 1 1/2 years that is not worth there weight in scrap metal. just save them for some of the usable parts left on them. You will be well ahead of the game by just getting a new carb.

I had considered the same so I figured I would spend the 50 bucks for a new carb and later sort out the issues with the original and have a spare.

Attached new carb, checked the flow from the tank (readily and quickly siphons to the bottom of the tank on it's own), connected the fuel line. started quickly and had a good idle. Warmed up ran it up and not a hint of richness? went to 2 1/2 turns out on the high needle, no burble at all wide open and 6700RPM on Vess 27B. Went to 3 1/2 turns out on high needle. Starts great, good transition, 6700 RPM. Losened the needle to 4+ turns out same result until lack of spring tension allowed the high needle to lossen futher and drop out in the grass. Engine Quit.

Conviced it must not be seeing adequate intake pressure change to depress the diaphram I then dissasembeld the carb adapter and removed the reed block. Checked all the passages and found some plastic flashing obscuring 2/3 of the hole in the plack plastic block. Cleared it with the tip of an exacto blade. Promptly reassembled refueled and with a big grin on my face started it up.....
grin quickly left when at 3 1/2 turns out it still could not go rich.

This thing screams otherwise but there is no response from the high needle on 2 EMAS carbs now, original and new replacement.

What could cause this?

[Bad Dog!]

	Quote: Originally Posted by bmclaughlin
	I had considered the same so I figured I would spend the 50 bucks for a new carb and later sort out the issues with the original and have a spare. Attached new carb, checked the flow from the tank (readily and quickly siphons to the bottom of the tank on it's own), connected the fuel line. started quickly and had a good idle. Warmed up ran it up and not a hint of richness? went to 2 1/2 turns out on the high needle, no burble at all wide open and 6700RPM on Vess 27B. Went to 3 1/2 turns out on high needle. Starts great, good transition, 6700 RPM. Losened the needle to 4+ turns out same result until lack of spring tension allowed the high needle to lossen futher and drop out in the grass. Engine Quit. Convinced it must not be seeing adequate intake pressure change to depress the diaphram I then dissasembeld the carb adapter and removed the reed block. Checked all the passages and found some plastic flashing obscuring 2/3 of the hole in the plack plastic block. Cleared it with the tip of an exacto blade. Promptly reassembled refueled and with a big grin on my face started it up..... grin quickly left when at 3 1/2 turns out it still could not go rich. This thing screams otherwise but there is no response from the high needle on 2 EMAS carbs now, original and new replacement. What could cause this?

I too am on my second carb, and am unable to richen the high end. It runs the same anywhere from two turns out to as far as it will go and not fall out.

It runs great, but will occasionally momentarily sag on an up line suggesting it is a hair lean. I have been content to just fly it, as it is so reliable and strong. I would feel better if I could obtain a little richer high end.

Any help would be appreciated.

Dale

[brycesteenburg]

.

[Jedijody]

On the DLE111's Emas carb there is no clearance between the diaphragm button and the lever, the button is grooved and slips into a fork on the end of the lever. Pop off pressure is not a product of this relationship and is most accurately checked and adjusted with the diaphragm removed from the carb. The only means of adjusting the pop pressure is by replacing the spring under the lever with one of a different tension, stretching or cutting the spring is not recommended. Pop off pressures should be in the 15-20 PSI neighborhood.