New DL-55 and DL-111

[jarheadflyer]

How about temperature on a dle 111? What is a normal operating temp and at what point is it to much?

[bmclaughlin]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Jedijody
	On the DLE111's Emas carb there is no clearance between the diaphragm button and the lever, the button is grooved and slips into a fork on the end of the lever. Pop off pressure is not a product of this relationship and is most accurately checked and adjusted with the diaphragm removed from the carb. The only means of adjusting the pop pressure is by replacing the spring under the lever with one of a different tension, stretching or cutting the spring is not recommended. Pop off pressures should be in the 15-20 PSI neighborhood.

Jody, where do I find springs with less pressure? Last year I got a carb from you to replace my DL100 carb that was plugged up with their welch plug sealant. New carb worked great but after going through the old one it worked again also but not quite as good.

This new motor (from Pilot with my Sbach 342) was this way out of the box. Replacement carb I had 2nd dayed to me from the USA behaved the same. What could be different about this motor?

The only thing I have not tried yet is to take my old/original DL 100 carb and see if it behaves the same.

This is my 5th DL/DLE motor and unless I can find a reasonable solution will be my last.

I love flying........ building.......... fabricating........ but not wasting ridiculous amounts of time fixing a new motor.

Not in anyway directed at you as I see the time you and others spend, helping and offering suggestion to those of us with problems, but it is extremely frustrating with a new motor in a new plane that won't run.

I don't fear deadstick landings, I've been flying for 44 years, I am trying not to destroy a brand new motor.

Sorry for the speech!

[rcign]

The high speed needle goes into a hole above the high speed fuel nozzle...If the hole is too small the carb can't pass enough fuel...Early DA 50s using the 201 carb did the same thing...
WT76 carb flows more fuel...A WT76 works well on a DA50.
The 201 could be modified by CAREFULLY drilling the hole where the high speed needle seats..A LITTLE at a time..You need a set of gage pins and some #61 to #80 to driil bits to do this...
Best done with a hand operated pin vise, you can go too deep and destroy the carb...
Apparently the DLE 111 uses more fuel under load than the chainsaw the carb was made for....

[bmclaughlin]

	Quote: Originally Posted by rcign
	The high speed needle goes into a hole above the high speed fuel nozzle...If the hole is too small the carb can't pass enough fuel...Early DA 50s using the 201 carb did the same thing... WT76 carb flows more fuel...A WT76 works well on a DA50. The 201 could be modified by CAREFULLY drilling the hole where the high speed needle seats..A LITTLE at a time..You need a set of gage pins and some #61 to #80 to driil bits to do this... Best done with a hand operated pin vise, you can go too deep and destroy the carb... Apparently the DLE 111 uses more fuel under load than the chainsaw the carb was made for....

I appreciate the Chainsaw humor........ I actually had considered the same thing. If this was one of my Chevy motors I would have changed jets and power valves already in the Holley carb and have this thing sorted out. I don't know these carbs well enough yet.

It's still a little hard for me to picture that at constant WOT the fuel supply would be lean unless the fuel passageway/jet was too small.

Does not seem like a modification that should be needed though to a motor that others are have such great success with.

My DL 100 runs fine............ Dallas TX not exactly high altitude.

Is it Carb or Motor, my inquiring mind wants to know before I shoot this thing?

[Jedijody]

First of all it's not an engine problem, it's a carb problem. Emas may have made a change or had some kind of machining or assembly anomaly that effects high speed fuel delivery. Personally, I don't remember hearing of any problems with this before. If you are receiving warranty help, keep getting new carbs until you get one that works right, if you are not getting warranty help then I would get a Walbro WJ71 and be done with it.

[Tired Old Man]

I agree.

However, if one is sold on the thought of chasing spring tension they can obtain springs with various tensions from Walbro. Unless you know what tension you need you'll end up doing a whole lot of experimenting.

[rcign]

Spring tension will not make the hole larger..The carb will pass more than enough fuel if the hole IS made larger...Stock carbs can be converted to run methanol by enlarging the inlet needle hole to .083 and doubling the AREA, not diameter, of the other fuel passages...Been there....It DOES work....

[borealnw]

Hey Pat I found the pop off meter but could not find the spring kit. Walbro did not have any tools on the website to speak of the only site that did offer the spring kit i found was no longer carring the kit. Here are the link I found for the meter and the springs.

http://tewarehouse.com/W57-11

[Jedijody]

	Quote: Originally Posted by rcign
	Spring tension will not make the hole larger..The carb will pass more than enough fuel if the hole IS made larger...Stock carbs can be converted to run methanol by enlarging the inlet needle hole to .083 and doubling the AREA, not diameter, of the other fuel passages...Been there....It DOES work....

You're right Ralph, one would need one of these new problematic carbs and one that works properly to compare to see what the differences are, there are a few places in a carb that could cause this problem.

[Denny Fish]

Sorry off topic still on carb springs though.Should one remove the throttle return on Walbro carbs? . The tension on my carb on my DLE 55 seems pretty stiff, it's my first gasser . One would think the constant pressure of the spring fighting the servo cannot be good over a matter of time. I have been having throttle servo problem's and have been researching what may be the problem and avoid another tense landing.Thanks for any advice

[rcign]

Clip the hook off the end, leave it on...If you take if off the throttle shaft will vibrate sideways and wear out the sides of the disc...When the sides get worn enough you won't be able to slow the idle to an acceptable rpm...

[Tired Old Man]

The throttle return spring tension won't hurt anything, won't stall the servo unless you're using one too small to begin with, and won't drain the battery. This same question has been coming up over and over and over and over for years.

If people paid half the attention to their servo set ups and battery sizing as they do to a carb they might keep a plane for more than a few flights.

[RTK]

You could also try raising the fulcrum arm a tad. It is not the correct way, but in a crutch it does work unless the carb was manufactured or sized incorrectly for the engine.
Emas carbs like Walbros are manufactured all over the world and tolerances aren't always up to spec. I had to open up a SDC 80's high needle passage to make it flow enough at WOT. Plenty of good advice has already been given.

[Tired Old Man]

	Quote: Originally Posted by bmclaughlin
	I appreciate the Chainsaw humor........ I actually had considered the same thing. If this was one of my Chevy motors I would have changed jets and power valves already in the Holley carb and have this thing sorted out. I don't know these carbs well enough yet. It's still a little hard for me to picture that at constant WOT the fuel supply would be lean unless the fuel passageway/jet was too small. Does not seem like a modification that should be needed though to a motor that others are have such great success with. My DL 100 runs fine............ Dallas TX not exactly high altitude. Is it Carb or Motor, my inquiring mind wants to know before I shoot this thing?

Let's simplify things a little.

Call DA or your local saw shop and order a WJ-71 for your 111. Bolts right on and works great. If you order from DA you might even get their pretty red throttle arm. Saves all the time with removing, modifying, and test running the carb you have.

Many have no problems at all with the carb fitted to the 111. Others can't seem to ever get them set and running right. You see the same thing happening with people running DA's but that's a story for another day. Use the WJ-71 if you're having problems.

It's not the engine.

[JoeAirPort]

Clipping the throttle return spring is rediculous. It's a great safety device and should be left alone IMO. If you think the servo and battery can't handle it, do the math to see how much torque is required and how much MAH on the battery. It's nothing. If you want to save lots of battery power lock your rudder at neutral and remove the servo. That makes about as much sense too.