New DL-55 and DL-111

[Hibrass]

You wouldn't happen to have any pictures of what you did to the check valve would you???

I happen to have a spare EMAS carb and might consider trying that on one of my 111's..

Thanks,

Ed

	Quote: Originally Posted by Bad Dog!
	My stock DLE111 would not run rich on the high end, no matter how far out the high speed needle was. I purchased a replacement EMAS and it behaved exactly the same. Both ran fine but would sag occasionally on long up lines. I drilled out the above mentioned hole on the replacement carb and the problem is solved. the hole was a press fit for a .039 drill bit and we enlarged it to .042 using a pin vise. We had to tap out and replace the check valve to make way for the drill. It was a easy and effective fix.

[Bad Dog!]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Hibrass
	You wouldn't happen to have any pictures of what you did to the check valve would you??? I happen to have a spare EMAS carb and might consider trying that on one of my 111's.. Thanks, Ed

Sorry no pictures. My post might have been misleading. By "replace the check valve" I meant we just removed it to make way for the drill bit and put the same one back in. I too have a spare EMAS and if I get a chance I will do the same thing to it and photograph the steps.

Dale

[Hibrass]

Dale,

Thanks for the additional info!! Makes much more sense...

I'm going to try it on my spare just to see what happens!

Thanks again,

Ed "Hibrass" Harley

	Quote: Originally Posted by Bad Dog!
	Sorry no pictures. My post might have been misleading. By "replace the check valve" I meant we just removed it to make way for the drill bit and put the same one back in. I too have a spare EMAS and if I get a chance I will do the same thing to it and photograph the steps. Dale

[Tired Old Man]

Easier to just locate someone that stuffed their DA 100 and buy the carb from them.

[bmclaughlin]

Put the Walbro WJ 71 on my new DLE 111. Then before I buttoned it back up I decided to check the timing......... discovered a factory setting of 38 degrees advanced! I guess they use a differrent fuel in Bejing............. Insane for a new motor.

Changed it to 28 degrees. Went out and flew it. No more overheating but initially fat midrange. Low needle couldn't go in further without hesitation so turned the High needle in 1/4. Top end sounded the same and tacked at 6500ish. Flew it.... better but still fat.... turned the high in again and midrange now flyable but not what I would call good yet. Still no sags on up lines. Need to wait for the weather to improve latter this week when I get back in town for more test and tune.

On another note though I flew my Edge with the DL 100 and noticed a little sag on the up lines. After I landed the engine died which is very unsual for it. I opened both needles very slightly and after refueling it would fire on choke but then choke off it would just burn off the fuel it drew in choked and die. Went through the lines, tank and filter and found nothing. Got the same result when trying to start. I then disassembled the carb and cleaned and inspected. Paid particular attention to the fuel pump membrane. Found nothing.

I have not tried to run it again since but QUESTION..... I have had bad ignitions on DL 50's behave similarly. Would fire choked but not run, but they did not sound this smooth. Sounds like it should start right up but sounded like it just could not draw fuel. It wasn't noticably difficult to get it to fire choked though.

Bill

[SportFlyer]

	Quote: Originally Posted by bmclaughlin
	Put the Walbro WJ 71 on my new DLE 111. Then before I buttoned it back up I decided to check the timing......... discovered a factory setting of 38 degrees advanced! I guess they use a differrent fuel in Bejing............. Insane for a new motor. Changed it to 28 degrees. Went out and flew it. No more overheating but initially fat midrange. Low needle couldn't go in further without hesitation so turned the High needle in 1/4. Top end sounded the same and tacked at 6500ish. Flew it.... better but still fat.... turned the high in again and midrange now flyable but not what I would call good yet. Still no sags on up lines. Need to wait for the weather to improve latter this week when I get back in town for more test and tune. Bill

So this is with the WJ 71 still on ???

[bmclaughlin]

	Quote: Originally Posted by SportFlyer
	So this is with the WJ 71 still on ???

Yes with new Walbro and corrected advance. Even with the Walbro I though that it would be rich on the top end when I started. When I turn the high needle in I really don't hear the top end change but the midrange is cleaning up. As long as I can get the midrange right without getting the High end too lean I think it will work out.

In the future I am going to have to build a test stand. 7 or 8 gassers over the last 2 years......... bolt the engine on fire it up with the cowl off make some minor adjustments....... put the cowl on and as they break in some minor tweeks primarily to the low needle over time.................

To pull the cowl entirely off this Sbach 342, 20 screws with loctite due to 2 piece cowl. I have blisters from the ball end driver!

To Pilot's credit, manufacturer not me, this Pilot RC 37% Sbach 342 is amazing. 2240 sq inches of wing and almost exactly 26lbs with the DLE111 and stock style exhaust. I thought my PAU 36% Edge flew well but this plane is amazing in it's precision yet flys like a foamy!

Bill

[davidjensen]

What do you think?? Is this plug wire (ignition) usable? When my spark plug failed the Sukhoi landed in the apple orchard and the plug wire got melted as it took us 10+ minutes to get to it.

[vacaman]

Hi Bill, I also have a dle111 in a pilot sbach, it flies amazing!!!. I did a little hole in the side of the cowl, so I don´t have to take it off to adjust the needles.
Mi dle also had the timing set at 38º. My other problem, like yours, was that I wasn´t able to tune the engine with a good idle and midrange at the same time. Whit a good midrange, the engine sagged from idle to full throttle. FinallyI solve the problem bending a little the needle lever, so the engine had more fuel on low end.
I just switched to synth. oil (40:1), and retuned the engine. It´s running great, with no sagging or hesitation in any attitude and lots of power, but after cheking the plugs, I found that the right cilinder is lean(almost white color) and the left cilinder is rich(dark tan). I know that the rearmost cilinder always runs a little leaner, but the difference is greater than I thought.

[drewbags]

Out of interest which way did you have to bend the lever arm to increase the fuel flow?

[vacaman]

Out from the carb body, in my case 1mm aprox. There´s more info about the pop off pressure in this and other forums.
I forgot to mention that I had to open the low end needle 3 1/2 turns to have a reasonable good idle before I bend the lever.

[Super08]

Dave my opinion if you want it would be to cover the holes in the shielding with some foil and tape it before I used it or you may get some ignition noise leaking out if there is any damage to the shielding. It is hard to tell in the picture. If the sheilding is undamaged and there is only some plastic melted on to it then no problem.

[Oilsands]

Dave, looking at the photo's it does not look like the outer wire braid is damaged. It looks like the isolator (between the outer braid and inner wire) has been melted slightly but still looks decent. I think it would still be ok. Just make sure you do a good range check before flying the plane (which should be done at the beginning of the day of flying anyways). If the outer braid is damaged, then you may want to do as Super08 suggested with the foil and tape (just make sure the foil is very secure as if left loose may cause more noise). If the isolator is melted and is really thin in the at area then the inner wire and wire braid can short out or the spark can jump in that spot, which would mean you need a new ignition. But from what I can tell in the photo's it looks ok to me, it is a little hard to tell in the photo's though.

[bmclaughlin]

	Quote: Originally Posted by vacaman
	Hi Bill, I also have a dle111 in a pilot sbach, it flies amazing!!!. I did a little hole in the side of the cowl, so I don´t have to take it off to adjust the needles. Mi dle also had the timing set at 38º. My other problem, like yours, was that I wasn´t able to tune the engine with a good idle and midrange at the same time. Whit a good midrange, the engine sagged from idle to full throttle. FinallyI solve the problem bending a little the needle lever, so the engine had more fuel on low end. I just switched to synth. oil (40:1), and retuned the engine. It´s running great, with no sagging or hesitation in any attitude and lots of power, but after cheking the plugs, I found that the right cilinder is lean(almost white color) and the left cilinder is rich(dark tan). I know that the rearmost cilinder always runs a little leaner, but the difference is greater than I thought.

I also have light plug darker plug but most here will say that is normal for this boxer configuration where it is difficult to equalize fuel distribution to both cylinders and though should improve will not dissappear... not just DLE's.

WHen you say "sagged" from idle to full throttle it sounds like you are describing what I refer to as "hesitation" mostly affected by or caused by the low needle setting being to "lean" possibly in conjunction with a slightly too lean high needle.

I also have a hole in the cowl for needle adjustment but to change/check carbs its been on and off 15 to 20 times in half as many flights.

Low needle on my EMAS carb was about 7/8's open with great idle, mid and transition but always overheated ( I thought is was lean may not have been) likely from the high advance. I changed to the Walbro and discovered corrected the ignition issue at the same time. At this time though I am going to continue to try and tune with the Walbro WJ 71.

After bitching in this forum about the EMAS carb, I would say that the carb may clearly not have been the problem. I would like to change my gripe to new motors shipped by DLE that are untunable out of the box unless the unsuspecting owner checks the timing. I for one will always do that in the future.

I will still purchase DLE engines due to price and performance but I now have learned from the process and have set up the tools needed for this.

For the record DLE owners should (IMHO):

1. Change the plugs before a new engine start up - they will bite you at some point should you not

2. Be prepared to likely encounter (EMAS carb only on the 100/111) the clear welch plug sealant plugging up an important orifice in the carb requiring dissasembly, cleaning, or replacement of carb ( I would like to see a video or a set of pictures that would help to see how to remove clean and correctly seal and replace this plug... If its already out there please point me to it)

3. Always check the timing before start up! Seems this timing thing is pretty common on the DLE111 due to the number in this forum and others that have discovered factory set ignition advances in the 36, 38 degrees and higher.

Trying to contribute and not just complain.

This is my 6th DL or DLE. My others have performed admirally. I was 1st at my club field to fly them and my buddies were all flying DA's. After observing the performance of my aircraft with DL/DLE's there are now many more DL's at my field.

One last question to those that might understand this 2 stroke ignition thing better than I. Might a slight amount of additional advance clean up the midrange a bit if you don't go above 30 or possibly 32 degrees with 93 octane?

Also as a point of reference my engine seems quieter from off idle to 6500 at 28 degrees vs the 38 degree setting. I assume the exhaust note change is from the timing change causing the mixture to fire with the piston 10 degrees further in it's travel towards TDC.

Bill

[louu]

	Quote: Originally Posted by bmclaughlin
	I also have light plug darker plug but most here will say that is normal for this boxer configuration where it is difficult to equalize fuel distribution to both cylinders and though should improve will not dissappear... not just DLE's. WHen you say "sagged" from idle to full throttle it sounds like you are describing what I refer to as "hesitation" mostly affected by or caused by the low needle setting being to "lean" possibly in conjunction with a slightly too lean high needle. I also have a hole in the cowl for needle adjustment but to change/check carbs its been on and off 15 to 20 times in half as many flights. Low needle on my EMAS carb was between about 7/8's open with great idle, mid and transition but always overheated ( I thought is was lean may not have been) likely from the high advance. I changed to the Walbro and discovered corrected the ignition issue at the same time. At this time though I am going to continue to try and tune with the Walbro WJ 71. After bitching in this forum about the EMAS carb, I would say that the carb may clearly not have been the problem. I would like to change my gripe to new motors shipped by DLE that are untunable out of the box unless the unsuspecting owner checks the timing. I for one will always do that in the future. I will still purchase DLE engines due to price and performance but I now have learned from the process and have set up the tools needed for this. For the record DLE owners should (IMHO): 1. Change the plugs before a new engine start up - they will bite you at some point should you not 2. Be prepared to likely encounter (EMAS carb only on the 100/111) the clear welch plug sealant plugging up an important orifice in the carb requiring dissasembly, cleaning, or replacement of carb ( I would like to see a video or a set of pictures that would help to see how to remove clean and correctly seal and replace this plug... If its already out there please point me to it) 3. Always check the timing before start up! Seems this timing thing is pretty common on the DLE111 due to the number in this forum and others that have discovered factory set ignition advances in the 36, 38 degrees and higher. Trying to contribute and not just complain. This is my 6th DL or DLE. My others have performed admirally. I was 1st at my club field to fly them and my buddies were all flying DA's. After observing the performance of my aircraft with DL/DLE's there are now many more DL's at my field. One last question to those that might understand this 2 stroke ignition thing better than I. Might a slight amount of additional advance clean up the midrange a bit if you don't go above 30 or possibly 32 degrees with 93 octane? Also as a point of reference my engine seems quieter from off idle to 6500 at 28 degrees vs the 38 degree setting. I assume the exhaust note change is form the timing change causing the mixture to fire with the piston 10 degrees further in it's travel towards TDC. Bill

thanks for posting that bill,
i have a 55 and love it. imm stepping up to the big boy class in may and imm still debating either the 111 or the new DA120, if i end up going with the 111 your post will come in handy.
timing is not my thing but i use to be a pro (litterely) at small engine carbs of all types. maybe ill brush up on my skills and post a video of a rebuild.