New DL-55 and DL-111

[Tired Old Man]

Atmospheric conditions (barometer) and temperature have quite an impact on rpm performance. There will always be day to day, and hour to hour changes in peak engine rpm. Anytime you have a change in barometer you'll have a change in engine output.

I forgot to mention that the DLE 111 reeds are pretty near an exact duplicate of the 3w twins. Anybody in the mood might want to try a set of 3w reeds for experimentation purposes.

[Oilsands]

Thanks, forgot about pressure changes. I was thinking the changes in the material of the reeds may be the cause for the increase in rpm.

[rcign]

Last time I looked the DA and 3W reeds on the 100s were the same...Next 3W 100 that shows up I will check again, I have a DA 100 here....

[davidjensen]

The DLE 55 ran great today. The carb cleanout did the trick. With the 23x8 Xoar it turned 6500 rpms on the ground at the beginning of the day and the needles were not sensative at all. This engine now has about 2.5 gallons through it and is now running 40:1 yamalube. I will switch to a synthetic after I burn out the last 1.5 gallons of this mix. I hope the RPM's will come up. What is everyone else getting from a 23x8 with this engine?

[Wayne's World]

Im running a 22x8 xoar black with silver tips getting 7460-7500. Engine has stock exhaust. Running 90/1 amsoil, engine stays cool and doesnt miss a beat. Have it on a Wild Hare edge 540.

[Oilsands]

That is all I ran last year was Yamalube at 40:1. Switched over after doing a small test with a weed eater engine. Had a couple of different oil (Amsoil Dominator 40:1, Lucas 40:1, and Yamalube 40:1). Each time the engine was tuned and ran at WOT for a few min, then the temps were checked while running. Yamalube was the coolest running of the three, so decided to try it for a year and see what the motor looked like. So far seems good, a little bit of black stuff on the top of the piston and does not seem too hard. That is from looking in the spark plug hole. I might get a bottle of Redline and compare that to the yamalube.

[Dan767]

	Quote: Originally Posted by davidjensen
	The DLE 55 ran great today. The carb cleanout did the trick. With the 23x8 Xoar it turned 6500 rpms on the ground at the beginning of the day and the needles were not sensative at all. This engine now has about 2.5 gallons through it and is now running 40:1 yamalube. I will switch to a synthetic after I burn out the last 1.5 gallons of this mix. I hope the RPM's will come up. What is everyone else getting from a 23x8 with this engine?

David,

It's been a while since I tached mine, but my Mezjlik 23X8 was in the 7K range I think.
What Led Sled are you driving? Come up to Snohomish some day....

[Tired Old Man]

Ralph,

I believe it's the older 3w-100 I'm referring to. It might have been the early 106 as well. The current DA reeds are nowhere close to the DLE 111 stuff.

[davidjensen]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Dan767
	David, It's been a while since I tached mine, but my Mezjlik 23X8 was in the 7K range I think. What Led Sled are you driving? Come up to Snohomish some day....

I'm currently finshing up another R3. I'd love to come to Snohomish. Where do you fly, Monroe?

[Oilsands]

	Quote: Originally Posted by davidjensen
	The DLE 55 ran great today. The carb cleanout did the trick. With the 23x8 Xoar it turned 6500 rpms on the ground at the beginning of the day and the needles were not sensative at all. This engine now has about 2.5 gallons through it and is now running 40:1 yamalube. I will switch to a synthetic after I burn out the last 1.5 gallons of this mix. I hope the RPM's will come up. What is everyone else getting from a 23x8 with this engine?

Glad to hear that worked for you.

[Oilsands]

Heard some good things about yamalube oil so decided to give it a try, flew all of 2009 season with yamalube at 40:1. The year is done and started to get into learning about 2 strokes and fine tuning the DL's more, getting ready for 2010 season.
So, decided to pull the heads/jugs tonight. The whole inside of the motor looked really clean, other than some carbon on the top of the pistons and inside the headers. The carbon on the top of the pistons was hard, I had to use a knife (carefully) to scrape it off. No build up around the piston rings, just the top of the piston and inside the headers. Cleaned up the top of the pistons, installed new gaskets, put a little hi temp silicone on the bolt threads (as two from each head/jug goes into the inside of the crankcase). I did run some Lucas and Amsoil Dominator oil through the motor (32:1 then 40:1 for the last month or so of flying in 2008) before switching over to the yamalube in 2009, so not sure if some of the black stuff was from that or not. I suspect that it should have been burnt off already, so this must be from the yamalube.
Is that too much carbon build up?

[Dan767]

	Quote: Originally Posted by davidjensen
	I'm currently finshing up another R3. I'd love to come to Snohomish. Where do you fly, Monroe?

David,

Link to the field:http://cascadefamilyflyers.com/

[davidjensen]

I don't think its too much. Two smoke engines do build up carbon and some could be from impurities in the gas. Decarboning the head and top of the piston is a normal regular maintenance item.

I used to fly at the Cascade field when it was the SNORC field.

[RTK]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Oilsands
	Is that too much carbon build up?

Not really, but you can tell the right cylinder (from rear) is running a little warmer and/or leaner than the other. It's just the nature of the design. I might try too baffle and set up a little better air extraction. From what I have found some synthetics will form harder carbon when run warm.
What do the plugs look like.

[Oilsands]

Here are a photo of the plugs. The plugs are set up as if looking from the back of the motor forward, so the one on the right is the rearward cylinder.
One thing I noticed before changing the reeds, is that the left (forward cylinder) would run cooler and also run richer after idling for a bit. It would clear up once I would go to WOT, but if I idled for a min it would take a few seconds to clear up. If I idled less than the min it would clear up right away. I did seem to take a lot longer to have the same rich condition at idle after changing the reeds.
Another thing I noticed yesterday, is that there seemed to be a small oil streak at the gasket on the head/jug on the left. It was bad enough that it would have it on the firewall behind that head/jug gasket. The gasket looked good when I removed it, thinking it may have been leaking from the bolt threads. I inspected the head and crankcase to see if there was a crack or something, it looked fine on both. Not sure if that would cause the rich condition I would get on that side at idle.