GIANTS FROM DOWN UNDER (Continued)

[Stu_D]

Battery world , they are a local company and I think i paid $47.00 for mine .

Its just an old camcord battery , nothing special . Even try a camera shop .

Stu .

[Borries]

	Quote: Originally Posted by stormin23
	They sure do like to chew the batts. May need to make a phone call and procure a spare

Battery World next to Bunnings in Kirrawee stocks them $70.00

Cheers
Bb

[timbo0279]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Richo
	Looks good Timbo, but the front cylinder would effectivly end up being a much long header!

And thus changing the overall tune I suppose... its just so darn hard to get those rear headers to snake around and achieve the same overall length as the fronts... You need a mini mandrel bender!!! heh heh heh

Whats the longest over all header length you would want for those 50cc pots??? I can get the dimensions from the DA website for the ports.. will have a play around with it in 3d... I need something to do at work!!

[Richo]

About 240mm Timbo

[timbo0279]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Richo
	About 240mm Timbo

How far appart are the exhaust ports on the 200 mate?? the 200 is the only engine they dont have 3 view drawings for on the DA website...

Its looking tight.. but it might be able to be done with the standard 25 dia. K&S bends and straights and a short stub of the 28 dia. at the connection of the can......

[Richo]

89mm centre to centre

[timbo0279]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Richo
	89mm centre to centre

Righto.. attempt 1... not soo good... Working on a 80mm drop. straight stub on the front cylinder and 30 degree offset stub on the rear cylinder.

Front cylinder header length (down the centreline of the header) is 240mm.. but the rear cylinder will have a header length of 352mm... purely cause it has a 90 bend (65mm long), 180 bend (131mm long), 45 bend (32mm long) and a short straight of 68mm to get back to the 28 dia header... then the remaining header length to the can (52mm) If the drop is increased.. the rear cylinder header length will improve (shorten) by the ammount you increase the drop...

I am going to try a few more configs...change the bends around a bit.. try and cut some of the 110mm extra length out of it... but its looking difficult... That original config from yesteday arvo was actually better because the front cylinder would only have had a longer header than the rear by the distance between the cylinder ports... i.e 89mm more experimenting to be done...

[timbo0279]

Hey Richo.. This is the closest I have been able to get it so far.... all the same assumptions as before (80 drop, 0 deg front, 30 deg back etc etc etc)

I had to make the front header length 260mm and the rear header has come out at 230mm. Theres not much room to move here.. I had to make the front header 20mm longer so I could get the rear header into the side of the 28 dia header from the front and still have around 30mm for the teflon coupler for the can...

Let us know what you think...

[Phxsparky12]

He's too busy having a cold Corona!! Oh wait....so am I.

[Richo]

No Corona's yet!! I'm still at work!

Tim, you need to get a job that keeps you busy!!!! Still need to keep the headers at the same length, I'm also not to keen on the rear header butting into the front one. A nice Y branch would be more efficient. To keep the lenght the same, perhaps start the front header bending back 40mm and the rear header bending forward 40mm.

[RH1N0]

Why not connect the left front header to the right rear - and the right front to the left rear?

Might even get away with MTW Knuckle headers on the front and KS cross-over headers on the rear. Off-cuts and a couple of KS bends for the 2 into 1 Y joins.

[boxhead41]

ok all you electric gurus out there i am thinking of converting my .60-.90 extra to electric i have been looking at hobbycity and was thinking of using this one with a 100 amp speedy and one of these batteries will it be enough?http://http://www.hobbycity.com/hobb..._380Kv_/_1820w
http://http://www.hobbycity.com/hobb..._25C_Lipo_Pack
let me know whether i should rethink this setup.
cheers scott(aka spaz)

[vincentp]

	Quote: Originally Posted by boxhead41
	ok all you electric gurus out there i am thinking of converting my .60-.90 extra to electric i have been looking at hobbycity and was thinking of using this one with a 100 amp speedy and one of these batteries will it be enough?http://http://www.hobbycity.com/hobb..._380Kv_/_1820w http://http://www.hobbycity.com/hobb..._25C_Lipo_Pack let me know whether i should rethink this setup. cheers scott(aka spaz)

What does your extra weigh without fuel? General rule of thumb for good performance, 150Watts per pound.. anything around there and it pull ok. However, most glow models are built to handle vibration etc, so electric conversions often turn out disappointing - model ends up too heavy and doesn't fly as nice, even though it would probably end up with more power.

FWIW, I have around 1600w (using 5S 5000 packs) on my sebart angel mini pattern ship, that weigh's < 3kg with the battery.. performs very nicely. My Hyperion Helios 90 pattern ship weighs around 3.5kg and has 1800W (8S 4000 packs). So if your model is < 3.5kg with the battery it should go ok

Vince.

[vincentp]

scott, one more thing, you will probably want to go with a higher cell count, if you do the math you will find you will be pulling more current than the speedy can deliver.. result is letting the smoke out. Don't ask me how I know this.. (anyone want a slightly (ab)used 100A turnigy speedy ).

I'm using this one in my angel.. works great :

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8921

Vince.

[Jag01]

Agree with Vince, 5S would be the shot and perhaps this motor http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/s..._270Kv_/_2100W

However I would reccomend 30c or 40c packs.

cheers,

jeff