Wild Hare 88" Edge 540 Build

[66stang]

Piper the wing gap is nothing to worry about. That little bit will do nothing as far a strength goes. The anti rotation pins will hold it fine. As for the canopy, it look like it was laying on something in the box, or something shifted while in transport. Also can happen if you tried to get the wrinkles out with heat and changed the shape..Could have been done at the factory too. I would ask Tom about what to do with it. But the rest seems OK. Oh and the firewall... that's a non issue it will not affect the strength at all. Good luck with the build because your gonna have a beast when you get it flying!

[flatspinjim]

I wouldn't worry about the wing gap either. I bet after you put them on and take them off a few times you'll have a great fit. As far as the canopy hatch I'm sure Tom will work with you on that. ( Now I'm putting words in Tom's mouth)

[Tired Old Man]

[quote=pipercub123;734323]Yes, that purgatory will be found in the sky as I force it to submit and absorb the stresses of severe 3D maneuvers such as a long full throttle downline that transistions into a full throttle blender for not being the prettiest plane in the pits! LOL, j/k. I don't want to be picking up balsa confetti.quote]

If the above is for real then it reinforces some of my earlier thoughts. Good luck.

BTW, if you would like some new thumbscrews I could send you a set. I have a set to spare since I wrecked a plane and re-used the old ones in the next plane. I've personally never had an issue with them. You did cut them to a shoter length before running them all the way in, right? You don't need all 2 or 3 inches of the threaded shank, only about an inch and a quarter at most.

[BTerry]

	Quote: Originally Posted by RTK
	I always use large fender washer to distribute the area if I use small standoffs anyway and always on the back side for the nuts/bolts too.

Ralph reminded me of something here.

PC123, you ARE using large-diameter washers on the aft end of the firewall, aren't you? I would hate to see you rip out a set of blindnuts or something like that. A load pulled through four fender washers would easily rip the plane in two before tearing through the firewall.

[pipercub123]

	Quote: Originally Posted by BTerry
	Ralph reminded me of something here. PC123, you ARE using large-diameter washers on the aft end of the firewall, aren't you? I would hate to see you rip out a set of blindnuts or something like that. A load pulled through four fender washers would easily rip the plane in two before tearing through the firewall.

No, but planned to if going with the repair. I will have to trim the washers to fit in the top holes though, but they'll still be better than standard sized.

[quote=Tired Old Man;734439]

	Quote: Originally Posted by pipercub123
	Yes, that purgatory will be found in the sky as I force it to submit and absorb the stresses of severe 3D maneuvers such as a long full throttle downline that transistions into a full throttle blender for not being the prettiest plane in the pits! LOL, j/k. I don't want to be picking up balsa confetti.quote] If the above is for real then it reinforces some of my earlier thoughts. Good luck. No, not for real. That's what I meant by "j/k" as in just kidding. I will be doing blenders though just with caution. What are some of your earlier thoughts? That I'm just a young whipper snapper concerned about little B/S here and there and my plane will just be doomed by irresponsible flying, poor engine tuning, or dumb thumbs from flying past my limits? Close enough? I'm curious, do tell. BTW, if you would like some new thumbscrews I could send you a set. I have a set to spare since I wrecked a plane and re-used the old ones in the next plane. I've personally never had an issue with them. You did cut them to a shoter length before running them all the way in, right? You don't need all 2 or 3 inches of the threaded shank, only about an inch and a quarter at most. That's very nice of you. I must have just gotten two bad bolts. Yes to cutting, no need to make installing bolts a chore.

	Quote: Originally Posted by flatspinjim
	I wouldn't worry about the wing gap either. I bet after you put them on and take them off a few times you'll have a great fit. As far as the canopy hatch I'm sure Tom will work with you on that. ( Now I'm putting words in Tom's mouth)

Thanks for the encouragement, but I think they'll only fit tight if a root rib or some bulkheads come unglued.

	Quote: Originally Posted by 66stang
	Piper the wing gap is nothing to worry about. That little bit will do nothing as far a strength goes. The anti rotation pins will hold it fine. As for the canopy, it look like it was laying on something in the box, or something shifted while in transport. Also can happen if you tried to get the wrinkles out with heat and changed the shape..Could have been done at the factory too. I would ask Tom about what to do with it. But the rest seems OK. Oh and the firewall... that's a non issue it will not affect the strength at all. Good luck with the build because your gonna have a beast when you get it flying!

I'm not concerned about the strength issue, I'm concerned with looking nice. The hatch, it had to have been the factory and using too much heat as I never touched the iron to it. All items were nicely wrapped and secured in the box so no probs with transit here but it can happen. That hatch looks tough to cover anyways using high temp covering and having the plastic canopy underneath. You can tell where the covering's finish was slightly scuffed leaving the dullish looking spot, perhaps from higher heat and excessive ironing. If there were no meltage, but wrinkles I would rather use the monokote trim solvent than risk melting canopy with an iron. My only concern is how compatable would the solvent be to the plastic?

Thanks everyone for the suggestions, support, and etc.

[rtflyer]

Will there be a video soon I'm thinking about getting this plane and i would really like to see its performance thanks.

[Tired Old Man]

Piper,

I have no concept of your age, ability level, or flight styles. However, some of the things done in the assembly of the kit have alluded to fairly low time in the hobby, or at least with building. That's not meant to insult, just observation. Does that imply that you are incapable? Not at all.

Keep everything going. I'm certain that ultimately you will be pleased with the end results of your efforts. I do wish things would have been easier for you with your first W/H.

[pipercub123]

	Quote: Originally Posted by rtflyer
	Will there be a video soon I'm thinking about getting this plane and i would really like to see its performance thanks.

Check out Tram's as he's got a good vid up. Mine is still waiting for parts. A video will be coming hopefully after next weekend. Stay tuned!

	Quote: Originally Posted by Tired Old Man
	Piper, Keep everything going. I'm certain that ultimately you will be pleased with the end results of your efforts. I do wish things would have been easier for you with your first W/H.

Thanks T.O.M.! For sure, it will be a good addition to my fleet and I plan on many flights.

Update:

The header hasn't been received yet and in the meantime I've decided to go for some Fromeco 1200 mah phosphates while I wait. Two for RX and one for ign. I plan on recharging a bit for a boost after each flight in hopes for extended flying and lighter weight with a less complex and regulator free system. I have a new Fromeco Ion Cube with brain coming along with a Fromeco Wolverine switch for rx and a Badger for ign. I almost went for Ions, but after many helpful suggestions from FG members I dropped the idea. I liked the idea of higher capacity batteries at about the same weight, but liked the idea of leaving out the regulators and a substantial savings on the batteries. The only drawback that'll bug me is not being able to check them with an ESV, something to get used to.

The battery upgrade came up because my old ones are two seasons old and I figured it'd be nice to see what the Lithium packs are all about. Sure the old packs have life left, but I also was worried about the 7955s not getting the proper juice and I wanted to shave off some weight. I'm not sure if it was needed or not, but now I have it so it'll be an improvement. Some say the Smartfly Battshare at a rated max of 3A isn't enough, but after thinking that with running JR connectors through the system than my system is limited to 3A due to connectors. I'm not sure with this however, but I'm assuming my servos have the potential to draw 8A yet people still use normal connectors on 50cc planes.

The replacement hatch has arrived and it looks nice.

Old firewall holes were plugged with an oak dowel and holes have been redrilled. The engine alignment is now good. 1 1/4" fender washers were used. I hated adding these washers as they're a bit heavy compared to normal washers. Oh well, sometimes it's okay to sacrafice weight for strength IMO.

A future addition will be adding an optical engine kill switch. I really like the idea just for added safety. Within reason, I'm all for adding anything that'll help make flying my plane safer because you never know.

[pipercub123]

The header has arrived. Very fast shipping. The header extends past the former into the fuselage and I'm wondering the best way to mount things. I could either drill a hole a bit larger than the pipe's outlet and shorten the pipe by about 3/4" so I can rotate the pipe into the drilled hole. Notice in pic the sanding drum, it's the same size as pipe and that's where hole would be.

Second choice would be to dremel out the side of the center wood strip to be able to get pipe closer to center, it'd be slightly offset. I wouldn't mind cutting the whole center piece out, but don't want to weaken the plane.

Third choice is to cut the header down in size and to cut the cowl mounting frame to allow the pipe to fit into the cowl. This is what I'm leaning towards as the cowl is cosmetic mostly. If it weakens the cowl too much, I can always add a support.

I will have to find a new coupler for the exhaust as the one that came with it is a sloppy fit on the canister. After performing a pressurization check, the coupler held no pressure. I wanted to fly this weekend so I'll either have to order one or try using some high temp silicone tubing from lowes, if I can find something that'll last a few flights. It's a bummer, but even with a new coupler and some work it's still a good deal for the price.

With the center piece cut out, I'd have more of a chance of having the canister slip off. By mounting the exit pipe so it's closer to the former than the former would keep it from slipping off if it happened to move. Another reason why I like the third idea better.

What do you guys think? Thanks!

[Tram]

I think you're gonna love it when you get it finished..

I've only got 2 flights on mine so far and it's rockin'..

18.5lbs as it is in this video.. If you happen to stay to the end, that action is already repaired.. LOL.. The wife is bringing some Ultracote Cub Yellow from with her today!

Wild Hare RC 88".. Too big for the yard.. on... " title="Wild Hare RC 88".. Too big for the yard.. on..." target="_blank">Wild Hare RC 88".. Too big for the yard.. on...

://www.vimeo.com/4253682

[66stang]

Tram sorry about the wreck dude. It looked like it was golden on the landing! Also looks like your battery problem is fixed. Good luck with the repairs.

[wildhare]

	Quote: Originally Posted by pipercub123
	The header has arrived. Very fast shipping. The header extends past the former into the fuselage and I'm wondering the best way to mount things. I could either drill a hole a bit larger than the pipe's outlet and shorten the pipe by about 3/4" so I can rotate the pipe into the drilled hole. Notice in pic the sanding drum, it's the same size as pipe and that's where hole would be.

First, it's OK to shorten the header as required. I normally mount the muffler with the outlet slightly ahead of the F1 former and as high as possible in the tunnel. Then I shorten the outlet tube so the cowl ring will slip over the outlet pipe without having to cut the ring which you don't want to do.

When you then lift the cowl up the exhaust outlet tube will be slightly below the bottom of the cowl. Obviously you will have to open up the bottom of the cowl, I just cut it out in the raised area.

You can also rotate the muffler slightly to allow easier cowl installation, then turn it back after the cowl is on.

The coupler being a little loose is normal. Just install the muffler with clamps on both sides, when it gets hot the coupler will soften slightly and will form around the pipe and muffler.

You must put something behind the muffler to keep it from moving backwards. The clamps will not hold things together no matter how tight the coupler is. Glue a piece of wood behind the muffler to secure it once you know where everything will fit.

TF

[Tram]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 66stang
	Tram sorry about the wreck dude. It looked like it was golden on the landing! Also looks like your battery problem is fixed. Good luck with the repairs.

Yeh, it was a bummer.. I had a thermal meltdown.. My wife cut off the video as she knew.. in her words.. "That the words were coming...."

Anyway.. She's all repaired..

[airbike]

OK, got my Edge on Wed afternoon (4/22), day and a half later, maidened on Friday- 4 flights.

Added a couple of washers for just a tad more right thrust, 3 flights on Sat.

Tom, I want a 100cc in this scheme. hope enough people call to say the same.

We'll see if this bird makes it thru the summer, it just begs to be flown hard and down on the deck. Its already had about 10 harrier landings in 7 flights. Runway, you don't need no stinking runway, just a nice helipad will do.

[wildhare]

	Quote: Originally Posted by airbike
	OK, got my Edge on Wed afternoon (4/22), day and a half later, maidened on Friday- 4 flights. Added a couple of washers for just a tad more right thrust, 3 flights on Sat. Tom, I want a 100cc in this scheme. hope enough people call to say the same. We'll see if this bird makes it thru the summer, it just begs to be flown hard and down on the deck. Its already had about 10 harrier landings in 7 flights. Runway, you don't need no stinking runway, just a nice helipad will do.

Now that's what I'm talking about, box to air in a day and a half. Mine actually took me 3 afternoons.

TF