I was as surprised by the weight as everyone else... I have a very accurate house scale and weighed my 150lb son and had him then hold the plane 3 times and each time it came out the same.Scale rounds out to .5lb increments so it could be closer to 15lbs.He used this scale as a high school wrestler and I have compared it to the one at the doctor, if this method of total weight is no good,what do you suggest? It feels pretty light for it's size,and yes it is ready-to fly!!!! Brian

Originally Posted by f22raptor

I was as surprised by the weight as everyone else... I have a very accurate house scale and weighed my 150lb son and had him then hold the plane 3 times and each time it came out the same.Scale rounds out to .5lb increments so it could be closer to 15lbs.He used this scale as a high school wrestler and I have compared it to the one at the doctor, if this method of total weight is no good,what do you suggest? It feels pretty light for it's size,and yes it is ready-to fly!!!! Brian

Would you care to list your setup? with respect, I am extremely sceptical of such a low weight, especially given the method you used, but if it flies good, it doesn't matter.
If you really wanted to know you should confirm it with another scale, which is designed for around a 30lb max load.

michael.

Originally Posted by f22raptor

I was as surprised by the weight as everyone else... I have a very accurate house scale and weighed my 150lb son and had him then hold the plane 3 times and each time it came out the same.Scale rounds out to .5lb increments so it could be closer to 15lbs.He used this scale as a high school wrestler and I have compared it to the one at the doctor, if this method of total weight is no good,what do you suggest? It feels pretty light for it's size,and yes it is ready-to fly!!!! Brian

If you don't have a 30lb food/postal scale, you can get a reference by taking a 15lb dumbbell to a post office and ask them how much it weighs. You should jot the number down and use the method you used with you son and see if the same number comes up. If it does, although not as accurate as food scale, your number should be pretty good.

If it is under 15lb, although not likely, you've found a gem.

Ok guys.... I seem to be in a bit of a pickle.... I've got a Fromeco Wolverine switch to put in my Yak. I cant seem to decide on a good spot to mount it. Anyone ever put one of these switches in this plane? Pics if you got 'em please.
I really like the concept of this switch but it is a bit larger than the typical switches you see and use.

Originally Posted by OverTheEdge

Ok guys.... I seem to be in a bit of a pickle.... I've got a Fromeco Wolverine switch to put in my Yak. I cant seem to decide on a good spot to mount it. Anyone ever put one of these switches in this plane? Pics if you got 'em please.
I really like the concept of this switch but it is a bit larger than the typical switches you see and use.

I have a suggestion however you may not be too happy with it!!! In the meantime does the littlest pilot have any GS cookies left?

Hey Danny.... are you still using the phenolic resin rudder servo arm that came with the plane or have you switched to an aluminum arm? I've tried a 3" arm and a 3.5" arm now and I'm not exactly happy with either one. With the 3" arm the wires got sloppy azz loose at full deflection.... the 3.5" arm helped but still not quite right.... I'm thinking of ordering one of the AirWild round aluminum servo hubs to bolt the stock phenolic resin arm to. I think the offset of the stock arm is what is needed to keep the wires tight throughout full deflection. ????

Also out of curiousity.... has anyone mounted a DL or DA with a Pitts muffler on one of these? If so.... could I see a pic of your crafty cutting on the cowl.

Thanks

Unless your servo arm and rudder arm are geometrically identical, you will not maintain even tension throughout the rudder servo movement. Since this can never be guaranteed due to normal build tolerances, all ARF manufacturers design a certain amount of slack in the system at full travel given the "out of the box" geometry.

It is important to have nice tight lines at neutral to avoid flutter, while at the same time not have tension INCREASE during travel, but anywhere away from neutral slack does not matter as long as the slack line is kept under control. Obviously there are limits, but chasing a nice even tension throughout rudder travel is fraught with headaches and is pointless for aircraft at this scale IMO.

michael.

Hi Michael,
I certainly thank you for your input.... I pretty much agree with you.... and I'm probably splitting hairs.... I just like to make sure things are as dead perfect as I can possibly make them before putting it in the air. Unfortunately a plane of this size is a stretch on my budget in the first place so I would be crushed if something stupid happened because of my lack of paying attention to detail if you know what I mean.
Still looking for some pics of one of these bad boyz with a pitts muffler carved into the cowl.... anyone?

Just got back from flying the snot out of mine today. Perfect sunny day with no wind. I flew 9 20 minute flights and I'm wasted. I have a Secraft 3.5" rudder arm on my plane, picking up on the offset hole at 3" (there are many options with the Secraft arm.) I checked on the rudder cable and at full throw I can deflect the slack wire 1 inch either way from the centre. It is a wicked 3D plane and I feel I'm just starting to uncover it's potential after 50 flights. No issues with authority in rudder.

michael.

Hi folks,

Finally, on friday, after a few months of waiting I flew this beauty for the 1st time.What a cool plane is this...
My previous Yak was a H9 Carden and all I can tell you,this is much better plane in every aspects.thanks Tony for the hinges :-)

Here's my solution to the two lower cowl bolts to those who are interested. I bought two cheapazz 6" flexable toolshop extensions from menard's (2.99 ea") and a proper sized hex bit, used a bit of large fuel tubing over the bit to hold the cap head screw in place. Works like a charm.

I'm finaly about ready to fly this bird! Just gotta tie the relion packs down and then wait for mother nature to get done with her pms! It's been raining like a bitch here. Anyway here it is! I'm gonna add some graphics.... just don't know exactly what yet.

Just Picked one of these up today new in box from a local for $350. Its the yellow flame version (ugly) but the price was right so I can deal with it. He said he bought it late 2008, Is there any differences between mine and the ones for 2010 I need to know about before assembling?

I wouldn't think there would be much if any difference.... but I've only seen mine and the other online.

I forgot to post my all up weight. 16lbs 10oz. I can probably trim a few more oz but not sure it's worth the trouble.

I had a small problem with the carbon fiber spinner that was included with my yak. The screw was too short and could not engage the prop shaft of the engine. After searching around online I found a screw that was long enough from fastnerexpress.com. I now have the carbon fiber spinner mounted up and the yak is ready. Now I just have to get some good maiden flight weather.