Best 3D plane for hovering?

[forgues research]

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[WEBSTAR5]

Actually I fly helis lol. I have already had the 3dhobbyshop Extra 300 so now that I am getting back into planes Im just going to do it right and go big. I have the confidence im my skill to handle it.

I like doing a lot of stalls and low speed flying as well as percision which is why I am asking which one is the best one for hovering. I want something with a lot of snap and large control surfaces that has minimal tail whip. Im just learning the ropes so can yuo adjust that with CG? Let me know.


Im most likely going to get the Extreme Flight Extra 300 from the looks of things.

[JoeAirPort]

	Quote: Originally Posted by bodywerks
	No. You said you are looking for a plane in the 6-7 foot wingspan range. Extremeflight makes an 88" extra(7ft, 4in.) It has around 1500 squares and is in the 17-18 pound range, WITH engine. It is not your lightest option, but it has one of the lightest wing loadings. IMO, hovering for any more than about 15-30 seconds gets boring in a hurry. It's pretty much the easiest "3D" maneuver to do. You might want to expand your flight envelope a bit... That EF 300 is about the sexiest 50cc plane out there, that's for sure, and it will most definitely allow you to expand your flight envelope.

I'll third that. I have both of these Extreme Flight planes and the 88" Yak is a true 1450 squares. I actually measured it. At 18 pounds it's exactly 28.8 ounces/Square foot. Mine is 17#, 13 ounces so it's actually a little less at 28.5 ounces/square foot. My Extra is 17#, 10oz.

Mine both hover awesome with the huge control surfaces. The CG should be near the middle or aft end of the recommended range to get a good hover from my experience.

Also I totally agree with Bodyworks (not the 1st time either) that you should stay away from the smaller air frames. The H9 260 is a small 50cc plane. The Extreme Flight Yak is probably the biggest 50cc air frame I know of. Get the biggest and lightest air frame that a 50cc engine will power. That's Chris H. philosophy and I totally concur.

Here's a few pic's. One of my favorite things to do is harrier ovals and circles on the deck. This Yak is so stable in high alpha. This one was at tree top level because it was the maiden.

[WEBSTAR5]

Thats a very nice plane, so you think the EF Yak is better than the EF Extra?

[JoeAirPort]

	Quote: Originally Posted by WEBSTAR5
	Thats a very nice plane, so you think the EF Yak is better than the EF Extra?

Oh oh. That's a very hard question answer....I think that's why I bought both.

Really they are two totally different planes that both fly incredible. People say that the Extra flies better precision and the Yak better 3D. I tend to agree. It does slice through the air better. The fuses are the biggest difference. The Extra is more slender and the Yak is fatter with more side area (look at the canopy !!!). The noses are completely different shape. The Yak is more neutral and does things more axial without compensating on the sticks. The Extra takes a little more stick compensation (but for me, no mixes needed on either). One thing for sure is that the Yak knife edges at high alpha much better than the Extra (I love to knife). The side area is bigger on the Yak. You can see in my pic's if you study the fuse profile. I really need more stick time on both of them since they are both relatively new. The Extra was assembled last winter and the Yak this winter.

[billd3]

	Quote: Originally Posted by MikeC3D
	Gotta go with Spaz on that one, the best throw around planes Ive owned were mojo 60's with Saito 100 on the nose, I beat the crap out of these profiles and they kept begging for more. Damn good 3D trainer. Then go straight to 35%, skip the crappy 50cc stuff and get a plane that flies good, as mentioned, WING LOADING is very important.

Another vote here for Paul Swanson's MOJO/Primo's. I've been flying them for 3 years and they all are great. My personal favorite is the MOJO-65 (65"wing) with a Saito 150 swinging an APC 18X6 prop. The Primo's (40 and 60) are next...I like them because of the thinner profile of the airfoil as it improves snapping maneuvers. To me they are "throw away planes" (low cost and quick building. I can build one from box to maiden flight in 3- 4 days and I always keep a spare framed up for each size). In order for me to "learn" I need to be very agressive and it's a lot easier to do that with a plane that the kit cost is around $100 than on expensive 35-40+%. These planes will do EVERYTHING very well and can take more punishment than they look like.

[WEBSTAR5]

Thanks JoeAirPort.....I think Im leaning towards the EF Yak now. Still, very tough choice.

[steedav8ranger]

you will have more fun with less worry if you have a profile. mojo 65, a 71" EEv2, OMP 80" edge or fusion to name a few.

[dubd]

I agree with the advice on getting a foamy or profile plane to get your feet wet. You will crash your first 3D plane while trying to do 3D. Question is, do you want to spend $200 now or $2000 now?

[danielph]

If you want a 50cc, don't hesitate to get the EF Yak 54, or Extra 300. From what it sounds like, the Yak will fit your style better, but you can't go wrong with either! I am building my Extra now, and I've been flying there 58" Extra for a long time. You can't beat Extreme Flight!

[Gonzoman]

What about pilot rc or peak models (with peak you can replace the airframe IF you crash for a decent price) The wing loading isn't bad at all on either of these models. But please do tell me if I'm wrong.

[STLAV8R]

	Quote: Originally Posted by danielph
	If you want a 50cc, don't hesitate to get the EF Yak 54, or Extra 300. From what it sounds like, the Yak will fit your style better, but you can't go wrong with either! I am building my Extra now, and I've been flying there 58" Extra for a long time. You can't beat Extreme Flight!

My thoughts exactly!

[BoneDoc]

Which size 3DHS Extra do you have? They do make the 87" SHP which would make an excellent performer as well. 16-17 lbs at 1475 squares.