Question for the Carpenters/Cabinet Makers

[ben_beyer]

I'm in the process of building a workbench top to build my Dalton Extra 300 on. My dad is a former cabinet maker and I came up with a design that he approved of. For my design, I plan on taking 2x6's and trimming them down to 2x5.5's essentially. By doing this, I can true up one of the edges that the building surface (which will be 3/4" mdf) will sit on thereby hopefully making for a very true surface. Here's my question to you guys in the whole process. To do this, I need a STRAIGHT edge so I went to home depot to see what was available. I want something that's 8 ft. long so I can make one continuous cut with the saw. I found a $20 edge by johnson levels (http://www.johnsonlevel.com/jl/product.php?id=J4900). My dad has one of these and it's great if you're ripping strips of plywood. My other option was a $100 level from empire (http://www.empirelevel.com/true_blue...ue_box_levels/). I would go with the e70 series in the 96" length. So would the level from empire make my cuts as straight as they need to be or could I do it with the cheaper, johnson straight edge?

[BreadBowl]

Isn't the width of a 2x6 actually 5.5"?

Not trying to be a smartass, but the nominal width of rough lumber is 1/2" less than what it's labeled as, at least from what I've seen when I've done framing construction.

IMO, you'd be better off getting some dense particle board (MDF board I think it's called) and building your table out of that. If you essentially make a box, and then put a grid of vertical shear webs in it, it won't warp and is rediculously stout. Matt Balazs made a similar table, and when I can actually get a workshop one of these days, I'll copy what he has. His top and bottom are actually about 8" larger than the "box" all around so that he has a place to put stuff while he's working on the airplane and he doesn't have to clutter his table top. It's slick.

Just food for thought.

[FENWAYFLYER]

I would think if you pick out straight lumber from the start there is no need to rip it the lumber.

I would suggest if ripping the plywood to take a straight edge and clamp it down on the plywood and use a circular saw to run down the straight to get a nice line.

[ben_beyer]

Well, I was just using 5.5" as a base line as I think a 2x6 is really 1.75 x 5.75. I just want to rip off the top to make sure it's really straight. I might see what i can find in the way of wood, but I don't want any maybes.

And I plan on doing what FENWAYFLYER suggested, but I want a straight edge that's a really straight edge.

[Stinger1]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ben_beyer
	Well, I was just using 5.5" as a base line as I think a 2x6 is really 1.75 x 5.75. I just want to rip off the top to make sure it's really straight. I might see what i can find in the way of wood, but I don't want any maybes. And I plan on doing what FENWAYFLYER suggested, but I want a straight edge that's a really straight edge.

In that case, to eliminate maybes, have a frame welded from steel I beams and use an MDS top which has been sealed from multiple coats of polyurethane. That way your frame and top won't warp from changes in temp. or humidity.

[50%plane]

JFYI, you can buy rough cut 2X6's that are truely 2" X 6" from some lumber stores....

[GSFriend]

You can use the edge of your mdf as a straight edge. You can clamp or screw the MDF to the 2x6 to then rip it with your saw running a long the edge of the MDF I do this all the time. Save your money and buy a servo.

[ben_beyer]

That's a great idea, thanks for the tip!

[dougpeck]

As a cabinetmaker for 50+ yrs. if I understand you correctly you are wanting to build a framework of 2x6's that is really flat so you can attach an MDF (medium density fiberboard) to the top to make a perfectly flat surface.

You are correct that dimensional lumber is rarely straight , it is manufactured purposely w/a "crown" (or slight bow) so that when a load is put on them (for flooring, say) the floor tends to straighten out rather than bow down. We cabinetmakers would use a machine called a jointer (not joiner-sp.) which has a long table and a cutter in the center. By passing the board (2x6 or whatever) over the cutters multiple times the board will flatten out perfectly. I would take your 2x6's to a local cabinetshop and ask them to put them through their jointer - bet they won't charge $20 or less . We cab makers use this machine to get perfectly flat edges so we can glue multiple boards together to get a larger width board - as well as other uses also. The longer the table for the jointer , the longer and easier it is to do long boards ... larger shops will have jointers w/ 5-7' tables - mine is over 6' long. You can buy short table jointers in places like Home Depot but they will not do what you want.

You then could go to a trade lumber company and get a piece of MDF that is 1" thick (insstead of 3/4's) for extra rigidity. Countersink your holes for screws on top surface and you should have what you are looking for!

[zoomer260]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ben_beyer
	Well, I was just using 5.5" as a base line as I think a 2x6 is really 1.75 x 5.75. I just want to rip off the top to make sure it's really straight. I might see what i can find in the way of wood, but I don't want any maybes. And I plan on doing what FENWAYFLYER suggested, but I want a straight edge that's a really straight edge.

A finished 2X6 from a Home Depot or the like is 1.5 X 5.5 inches. Far as I know all building lumber is 1/2 inch less both ways with some deviation 1/8 inch or so.

I understand exactly what you are trying to achieve, and if you have the tools to true the edges by all means do so. A jointer works just great , no straight edge needed except to check it.

I am not a carpenter but I did grow up with a shop full wood working tools. Which I consider a super thing to have around. Now if I can ever build one as complete.

Well I just got to end of the thread and discovered the jointer idea posted already. I'm sure you will end up with a good enough table no matter how you go about it because you are concerned about it being straight. Many are not. Good luck. My current table I checked with a 6 foot Au. ruler from Lowe's. It was built out of laminated and jointed popular true 2x4's finished size.

[JimC-MD]

I made my new table out of pallet racking. I cut off the uprights to the working height I wanted and used runners that have a place to put 2x4 wood across for shelves. Instead of 2x4 wood I used channel steel. I first leveled the steel structure as close as I could. (The steel is not machined perfectly flat, it is extruded and welded for what it is designed to do) Then I set two layers of MDF on top and got it leveled and square. I then went around the overhang area and used angle iron to lock the MDF to the perimeter of the steel frame. The last step was to check all the center area for and low spots and shim with high density fiber strips. The result is a table that can hold serious weight without bowing and it can all be unbolted and moved to another location. It can also be rechecked or have a new surface put on it easily. Just a thought. You can find pallet racking when businesses move or close just for the time to look around. My only expense on my new table was the MDF, the angle iron, the cross bracing on the legs and some self tapping metal screws. Total of about $100.

[ben_beyer]

	Quote: Originally Posted by dougpeck
	As a cabinetmaker for 50+ yrs. if I understand you correctly you are wanting to build a framework of 2x6's that is really flat so you can attach an MDF (medium density fiberboard) to the top to make a perfectly flat surface. You are correct that dimensional lumber is rarely straight , it is manufactured purposely w/a "crown" (or slight bow) so that when a load is put on them (for flooring, say) the floor tends to straighten out rather than bow down. We cabinetmakers would use a machine called a jointer (not joiner-sp.) which has a long table and a cutter in the center. By passing the board (2x6 or whatever) over the cutters multiple times the board will flatten out perfectly. I would take your 2x6's to a local cabinetshop and ask them to put them through their jointer - bet they won't charge $20 or less . We cab makers use this machine to get perfectly flat edges so we can glue multiple boards together to get a larger width board - as well as other uses also. The longer the table for the jointer , the longer and easier it is to do long boards ... larger shops will have jointers w/ 5-7' tables - mine is over 6' long. You can buy short table jointers in places like Home Depot but they will not do what you want. You then could go to a trade lumber company and get a piece of MDF that is 1" thick (insstead of 3/4's) for extra rigidity. Countersink your holes for screws on top surface and you should have what you are looking for!

Thanks for the information dougpeck. Like I said, my dad used to be a cabinet maker but now he just buys tools. He lives a couple hours away and I don't have time to go home to get help. $20 to have the boards trued up with the jointer sounds fine to me. It's better than spending $100 on a straight edge. I think I'll go that route and then probably do some crosspieces with mdf. I'm not going to be sheeting foam cores on this, just building the fuse so it doesn't need to be super strong, but straight.

[The Dirt Doctor]

	Quote: Originally Posted by dougpeck
	As a cabinetmaker for 50+ yrs. if I understand you correctly you are wanting to build a framework of 2x6's that is really flat so you can attach an MDF (medium density fiberboard) to the top to make a perfectly flat surface. You are correct that dimensional lumber is rarely straight , it is manufactured purposely w/a "crown" (or slight bow) so that when a load is put on them (for flooring, say) the floor tends to straighten out rather than bow down. We cabinetmakers would use a machine called a jointer (not joiner-sp.) which has a long table and a cutter in the center. By passing the board (2x6 or whatever) over the cutters multiple times the board will flatten out perfectly. I would take your 2x6's to a local cabinetshop and ask them to put them through their jointer - bet they won't charge $20 or less . We cab makers use this machine to get perfectly flat edges so we can glue multiple boards together to get a larger width board - as well as other uses also. The longer the table for the jointer , the longer and easier it is to do long boards ... larger shops will have jointers w/ 5-7' tables - mine is over 6' long. You can buy short table jointers in places like Home Depot but they will not do what you want. You then could go to a trade lumber company and get a piece of MDF that is 1" thick (insstead of 3/4's) for extra rigidity. Countersink your holes for screws on top surface and you should have what you are looking for!

Ben, this is excellent advice on how to build the basic flat table. I would help the perfectly flatness by putting the center out of a 1/2" x 4 x 8 piece of sheetrock. I say "center" because I learned not too long ago that the long edges are "feathered" on one side!

Bobby aka TDD
A&M '75

[dougpeck]

I think that's a good route to take, Ben . When you pick out the 2 X 6's at your local Home Depot (or wherever you buy at ) you can make it easier for the jointer by sighting down the edge of the board before you buy. You will be able to tell which boards are close to straight very easily. Try it a few times and you will see how easy it is. You may have to look through 20 boards to find 6 that are straight. When you take those to your local cab maker he will have an easy time making them perfectly straight.
You could also save weight and add to strength by using Elmers glue on top of framework before you attach top w/screws and using a 3/4" MDF. You will get both strength and fairly light weight . You could even use 2 X 4's instead of 2 X 6's and save additional weight - but only if you glue the top on.

I have a friend here in Vegas who builds my planes for me (and does a beautiful job ! ) and he uses a solid core door w/a piece of 1/2" sheetrock on top so he can cut w/o dulling his knife blade cuts. Then he simply replaces the sheetrock occasionally. The sheetrock is heavy enough that it doesn't move around much while building. If you go this simple way, make sure you use the top side of sheetrock as the back side can be very bumpy and irregular. This would certainly be a cheaper/easier way of probably getting what you want. A solid core door at Home Depot would probably cost less than $50.

[ben_beyer]

Thanks! I know all about sighting the boards, my dad did teach me that part. But pretty much everyone you look at will have some bow to it. I'll start calling around to different cabinet makers tomorrow.