RC League 85" 50cc Yak 54

[JClark]

	Quote: Originally Posted by flyracer
	The wife got me the Russian Thunder schema RCLeague Yak for father's day. I've started the build and I'm setting up for Power 160 outrunner (2700watts) with a 10S lipoly. Control surfaces are installed and taped, but I'm stumped on how the elevator/stabs attach to the fuselage. The instructions are more like a parts list than a "how to" Any inputs on this part of the assembly would be deeply appreciated. -Flyracer

There should be hard points in the bottom of the stabs that a bolt will go through to the tubes. You will have to drill the holes through the hard points and through the tube. Then thread the bolts through the hard points and the tube.
Do you have carbon or steel tubes??

[2robinhood]

It's actually a wood screw, not a bolt.
There is no nut built into the stab.
Do you have the english version of the instruction manual ?
It still does not cover things 100%, but at least it is in english.

[2robinhood]

	Quote: Originally Posted by flyracer
	The wife got me the Russian Thunder schema RCLeague Yak for father's day. I've started the build and I'm setting up for Power 160 outrunner (2700watts) with a 10S lipoly. Control surfaces are installed and taped, but I'm stumped on how the elevator/stabs attach to the fuselage. The instructions are more like a parts list than a "how to" Any inputs on this part of the assembly would be deeply appreciated. -Flyracer

What does that outrunner = to in a gas engines cc ?
Real interested in what your final weight will be compared to my gasser version.

[flyracer]

My kit came with CF tubes for the main wing and the elevator/stabs.... so I have to drill through the CF tube for the elevator/stabs Holy cow won't that weaken the tube?

and I got the Chinese version of the manual :-(

Watts compared to Horsepower... I believe 750 watts = 1 Horsepower.... so ~3.6 Horsepower. I expect the AUW to be no more than 15lbs with a 5000mah 10S lipoly pack and the Power 160 motor. @ 2700watts that's 180watts per lbs.... anything above 150watts per pound is good for 3D in the electric world.

As I get closer to final weight, I'll post some updated specs on the setup... anyone using HS645MGs? my LHS says these are ok for light 3D aerobatics for 30% scale planes.

-Flyracer

[flyracer]

another equipment question.... anyone using 3 blade props?


-Flyracer

[flyracer]

If someone knows of link for the english version of the manual... please post!

-Flyracer

[rawood3rd]

I found the manual at abellrc.com (go to airplanes, gas, abellrc, and scroll down click on RCL 54 Yak and at the bottom you will find the link for the manual in english. In my humble opinion the manual isn't much. I just mine the other week and overall I am impressed with the plane and the value. I hate the hinges they used and the giant holes that were drilled (I should sound pounded) in mine. I'm probably going to drill them to 1/2 inch and put in dowels and start over with Robart hinges. How did yours look? The knuckle is really big on the ones I got and the hole makes it so the shaft part of the hinge has nothing to grab to. I could use Gorilla glue as suggested but keeping the shaft centered will then be a real task. What servos are you planning to use? I'm thinking of the new HD high voltage servos and using A123 battery. This is my first gas plane so I will be leaning on others for help since the directions leave a little, or a lot to be desired.

[rawood3rd]

I was actually thinking of using about an inch long piece of angle aluminum on the bottom of the stab to join the stabs to the fuselage. I've heard of others glueing them but then you can't get to the servos if you ever needed to. What do you think?

[Wayne's World]

where did they say was the cg at for this plane? maidening mine tomorrow

[rawood3rd]

the manual shows it 500mm back from the front of the cowl, but they measure with the tank full. This is my 3rd plane and first gaser, and the first one where they say measure the cg with the tank full. Other folks have said just measure the cg at the wing tube location and go from there. Good luck on the maiden flight. What engine were you using on yours?

[BTerry]

	Quote: Originally Posted by rawood3rd
	I was actually thinking of using about an inch long piece of angle aluminum on the bottom of the stab to join the stabs to the fuselage. I've heard of others glueing them but then you can't get to the servos if you ever needed to. What do you think?

I don't think I would recommend that as it would add additional weight aft (although that may help with balance).

A couple of options: build a "root rib" out of plywood or 1/8" fiberglass with "ears" for bolts, which thread into blind nuts installed inside the fuse. If those are not already installed or if access is limited, this may not be an option. See my pictures here: http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/f...tml#post204934

Another option is just to drill into the carbon tube as per plan, but with one mod. Take a hole saw that will fit within the wing tube (or stab tube) and cut a circular piece out of hardwood or plastic (I have used an old plastic cutting board for this). Then drill and tap the plastic (or wood) for a 4-40 or 6-32 bolt. If using the plastic, this bolt will not back out on its own.

Let me know whether these make sense.

Brett

[Wayne's World]

running a dl50 a123 battery and smart fly switch

[flyracer]

rawood3rd
Thanks for the info on the manual. Looks like the PDF is corrupt on ABELLRC.COM's website

Yes, the holes for the robart style hinges are HUGE! I used 5 min epoxy in two separate gluing sessions to secure and fill the holes. The hinge line is pretty solid now. I didn't worry much about the hinge knuckle as these recessed enough to give a snug enough hinge line. I used blendaderm to seal the hinge line. Movement is smooth up and down on all control surface with zero binding and that's a must.

Everything else seems well thought out on the kit, it's disappointing that the elevator/stabs didn't come with mounting ears on the underside to secure the units to the fuselage. I have a (electric) 70" Yak from Cermark and the elevator/stabs have the mounting ears and it's easy to remove the units anytime you need to. I might try and make my own out of thick ply. I don't want to glue these on or drill into the CF tube.

I'm going to use the HS645MGs... they'll support 133oz of torque at 6v. Not the fastest in that size but plenty of high torque.

-Flyracer

[flyracer]

	Quote: Originally Posted by BTerry
	I don't think I would recommend that as it would add additional weight aft (although that may help with balance). A couple of options: build a "root rib" out of plywood or 1/8" fiberglass with "ears" for bolts, which thread into blind nuts installed inside the fuse. If those are not already installed or if access is limited, this may not be an option. See my pictures here: http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/f...tml#post204934 Another option is just to drill into the carbon tube as per plan, but with one mod. Take a hole saw that will fit within the wing tube (or stab tube) and cut a circular piece out of hardwood or plastic (I have used an old plastic cutting board for this). Then drill and tap the plastic (or wood) for a 4-40 or 6-32 bolt. If using the plastic, this bolt will not back out on its own. Let me know whether these make sense. Brett

Brett
It looks like there are open sections (covered with monokote) on the underside at the rear of the fuselage. I'd need to remove the covering to allow better air flow over the electrics and through the fuselage. It looks like there might be an opportunity to get into the side fuselage area through this opening and glue in some addition ply with blind nuts. Then I can add some tabs (or root rib as you suggested above) on the elevator/stabs and screw right into the side mounted ply and blind nuts.


Jacques

[flyracer]

rawood3rd
I tried the ABELLRC link from work and I was able to download the english version of the manual.... many thanks!


-Jacques