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#1 |
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Crashing sucks!
![]() Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sturgis, South Dakota
Age: 40
Posts: 843
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I've machined my own servo arms and I need the geometry for the splined output shaft on the servos. I am using Hi tech's but would like info for all three of the big brands. (JR, Hi tech, and Futaba)
If anyone has a print or information that would be helpful I'd be very grateful. Thanks. C This is also posted up in the transmitter/receiver/servo forum. |
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#2 |
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whiteroseeng.com
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Naples Florida
Age: 70
Posts: 204
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I will be interested to see how you do in this pursuit. I went on a similar quest but from a different angle. I sent an output shaft (JR) to a broach grinder hoping it was a standard which I was damn near sure it was not. As feared, they came back with an $1,150 quote to grind me a custom broach. Maybe they will do a bunch for the same price?
If you have the right grinding equipment you could do your own. From my experience with JR servos, they do not do a real good job with consistent tolerances on their splines. It didn't matter with the plastic servo arms but does with metal arms. That's why most of the after market metal arm manufacturers are cutting them a little over sized and including a clamp screw. Now that JR is making so much torque that plastic strips out they will have to tighten up the tolerances on the splines. It will probably be wise to wait for them to do that before investing in a broach. I don't have any experience with Futaba and HiTech. They could be better although the after market guys use the clamp screw for them as well and I assume it's for a reason. Good luck Vern whiteroseeng.com |
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#3 |
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Crashing sucks!
![]() Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sturgis, South Dakota
Age: 40
Posts: 843
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I'll just machine my own then. I guess just get it as close as I can. I concur that the spline geometry is not consistent from one servo to the next.
Fun stuff. Thanks. C |
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#4 |
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whiteroseeng.com
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Naples Florida
Age: 70
Posts: 204
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If you decide to make (machine?) your own broaches I would be interested in buying a set from you.
Vern Last edited by Vern Smith; 06-08-2009 at 07:33 PM. |
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#5 |
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Crashing sucks!
![]() Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sturgis, South Dakota
Age: 40
Posts: 843
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I'll be in touch Vern.
"Broach" really isn't the correct term for what I'm doing. Calling it a swaging tool is probably more appropriate. I'm "squishing" the material more than actually cutting it. The holes are blind so chip evacuation is going to be an issue. My plan is to just "ca chunk" the splines in the 7075 aluminum using the spindle and a G1 move in Z with no RPM. We'll see how she goes. I'll be in touch. C |
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#6 |
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whiteroseeng.com
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Naples Florida
Age: 70
Posts: 204
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That was my plan as well, sorry about the misnomer, swagging or squishing is probably a better term. I planned on using 6061. 7075-you must be anticipating some big loads? It probably won't displace or deform as easily as 6061 would.
Vern |
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#7 |
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Crashing sucks!
![]() Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sturgis, South Dakota
Age: 40
Posts: 843
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I'm counting that it won't which is why I'm going to use either Pre heat 4140 or D2 for my tooling.
I chose 7075 cause it just machines so so so very sexy nice. It's a selling point too I guess as I do have a few locals interested in them as well. Cheers. |
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#8 |
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Super Anal Perfectionist !!
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I think you want a rotary broach to do the ID splines.
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#9 |
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whiteroseeng.com
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Naples Florida
Age: 70
Posts: 204
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OK, can we trade you some tailwheels and sniper rifles for a couple
Mr. nesikachad appears to have the equipment to make his own but I don't so I would like to hear more.Vern |
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#10 |
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Super Anal Perfectionist !!
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Here is a video, Its very cool. One of those things you say it wouldnt work, watch it and still dont believe it. . . lol
http://www.slatertools.com/video.htm |
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#11 |
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whiteroseeng.com
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Naples Florida
Age: 70
Posts: 204
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That is amazing and made in America too. It looks like somebody still has to make a male or female form to put into the rotary tool. For limited production shoving a broach into the hole would probably be the best way to do it unless you happened to have one of the slatter tools laying around.
Thanks for the information. |
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#12 |
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Super Anal Perfectionist !!
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I've kicked this around myself. I would think you could make a broach and have angled clearance in the center. Almost like a endmill but much more (.003/.005) to help with the chips. The chips are going to be the kicker
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#13 |
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whiteroseeng.com
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Naples Florida
Age: 70
Posts: 204
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Maybe you could peck it to help with the chip evacuation? wouldn't do much for cycle time though. Who cares, it's our hobby! A hole in the center of the broach (axial) would give the chips somewhere to go for a while.
Last edited by Vern Smith; 06-10-2009 at 06:11 PM. |
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#14 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Knightdale, NC
Posts: 1,068
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Fascinating stuff ! Jason |
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#15 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Super Anal Perfectionist !!
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