40% Turbo Laser (scratch built)

[Bandito]

	Quote: Originally Posted by forgues research
	I only use the regulators on the servos and not the receiver. Here is my setup. First I'm using Lipos for power. which is about 8 volts fully charged . Although my setup is different then most, you can do a similar setup. I run the receiver with a small battery since the receiver doesn't have any servos plugged into it. I use Fiber Optic servo extensions so the fiber optic encoder plugs into the receiver, and the fiber optic decoder/servos use there own battery. this is where the regulator goes in, just before the decoder to 6 volts. This way , no bad servos can ever feed back to the receiver creating a lock out, and also the servos gets a full 6 volts on the signal wire which is more then they would get from the receiver. Hopefully I didn't confuse you too much Roger

Thanks Roger, my confusion is lifting. Fiber optics from each Rx channel to encoder/decoder device. Through separate regulator to each servo, lowering high Lipo voltage.
Is each channel encoded/decoded independently, so a servo/reg/encoder/decoder failure has no effect on encoding/decoding of other channels? Is encoder/decoder one device, or several separate devices on one board?
Sounds like a good setup, if encoder/decoder can't fail as a unit, knocking everything out.

One last question, can it run on A123's? Maybe the regs wouldn't be needed then, depending on what servos are run.
I like the way the receiver is isolated, and full signal voltage in your setup, kudos on that.
Hope this all makes sense.

[Rod]

Hi Roger
hows progress on your constant speed prop going?

[forgues research]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Rod
	Hi Roger hows progress on your constant speed prop going?

Hi Rod,
Its going very well, I have built a second hub as the first was sent to Pakistan for developing carbon fiber blades.

it is very compact , will fit inside a 5 inch spinner. I'm now working on the activation control . The slider is done , now for the servo control part.

No more pictures at this time , I don't want anyone to steel it before I have it out with my Pakistani partner.

Roger

[forgues research]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Bandito
	Thanks Roger, my confusion is lifting. Fiber optics from each Rx channel to encoder/decoder device. Through separate regulator to each servo, lowering high Lipo voltage. Is each channel encoded/decoded independently, so a servo/reg/encoder/decoder failure has no effect on encoding/decoding of other channels? Is encoder/decoder one device, or several separate devices on one board? Sounds like a good setup, if encoder/decoder can't fail as a unit, knocking everything out. One last question, can it run on A123's? Maybe the regs wouldn't be needed then, depending on what servos are run. I like the way the receiver is isolated, and full signal voltage in your setup, kudos on that. Hope this all makes sense.

Sorry for the confusion , certainly wasn't my intentions.

Each channel has its own Fiber Optic servo extension . That is , one encoder for every channel used. this feeds the signal to the decoder by light pulses . and the decoder decodes the light pulses to electric pulses so the servo can interpret it. Now there are no wire connections from the encoder to the decoder except the fiber Optic cable. and this is why you need a separate battery for the receiver and for the Decoder/servo/s . Also with this setup, you can gang many more servos on one channel than you could directly on the receiver. I have gone up to 7 servos with no ill effects.

Also with this setup , you can install the throttle and choke servos in the engine box and use the ignition battery to power them , they are completely isolated from the receiver.

As for the A 123 battery, I have not used these and don't know there initial voltage , but some say they don't need a regulator, which might be the way to go.

Roger

[Bandito]

	Quote: Originally Posted by forgues research
	Sorry for the confusion , certainly wasn't my intentions. Each channel has its own Fiber Optic servo extension . That is , one encoder for every channel used. this feeds the signal to the decoder by light pulses . and the decoder decodes the light pulses to electric pulses so the servo can interpret it. Now there are no wire connections from the encoder to the decoder except the fiber Optic cable. and this is why you need a separate battery for the receiver and for the Decoder/servo/s . Also with this setup, you can gang many more servos on one channel than you could directly on the receiver. I have gone up to 7 servos with no ill effects. Also with this setup , you can install the throttle and choke servos in the engine box and use the ignition battery to power them , they are completely isolated from the receiver. As for the A 123 battery, I have not used these and don't know there initial voltage , but some say they don't need a regulator, which might be the way to go. Roger

I just looked back and found your pics, complete with explanations, on page 59. I should have looked closer before, but was too concentrated on the structural part of the build I guess. The decoders are nice and compact. Power and optic in one side, 3 wires on other side, out to servo, is what I think I see.
What you label 'fiber optic drivers' is the individual encoders, turning receiver signal into light waves, I think?
The servo power bus is supplying an individually, regulated, power source, to each decoder servo combo, I think? If pulling power off a remote batt, the regulator, if needed, is near batt, leaving just the black fiber optic cable going back to the encoder/Rx?
I couldn't help wondering, have you tested how far the 'optics' can transmit a reliable signal? Would be interesting to know the actual limit.
Not sure I understand the fail safe switches, and the 3 wire bundles going into the board, but I probably missed info on that somewhere. Seems like power supply wires for Rx/powerbus, coming from respective batts/switches in triplicate?
To gang servos, do you split the channels signal to multiple encoders, and run separate optic to each servo?
The whip antenna is cool, can it work on any receiver?
I hope I have a grip on this, let me know if I'm out to lunch, and sorry for the long post.

[forgues research]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Bandito
	I just looked back and found your pics, complete with explanations, on page 59. I should have looked closer before, but was too concentrated on the structural part of the build I guess. The decoders are nice and compact. Power and optic in one side, 3 wires on other side, out to servo, is what I think I see. What you label 'fiber optic drivers' is the individual encoders, turning receiver signal into light waves, I think? The servo power bus is supplying an individually, regulated, power source, to each decoder servo combo, I think? If pulling power off a remote batt, the regulator, if needed, is near batt, leaving just the black fiber optic cable going back to the encoder/Rx? I couldn't help wondering, have you tested how far the 'optics' can transmit a reliable signal? Would be interesting to know the actual limit. Not sure I understand the fail safe switches, and the 3 wire bundles going into the board, but I probably missed info on that somewhere. Seems like power supply wires for Rx/powerbus, coming from respective batts/switches in triplicate? To gang servos, do you split the channels signal to multiple encoders, and run separate optic to each servo? The whip antenna is cool, can it work on any receiver? I hope I have a grip on this, let me know if I'm out to lunch, and sorry for the long post.

No problem on the post.

You have everything right. As for the distance from receiver to servo, using this system, I have developped 3 different power level , one the least expensive for model application is good for about 8 feet. The second is good for about 200 feet and the most powerfull is good for 500 feet.
Why so long you may ask, well I do business with these for UAV's which can be much bigger then our models, also the US army is using these on an experimental blimp whith is where the most powerfull comes in.

The whip antena is good for any non 2.4 receivers. These are not base loaded but simple piece of wire sticking out of the airplane , the lenght of the this wire is removed from the receiver wire to keep the total proper lenght.

The ganged servos is only to work together with no individual controls , used like a Y connector

Roger

[Bandito]

Great stuff Roger, good to know this tech is available. Regarding the whip antenna, does it give better reception or mostly cosmetic? Also I saw a pic of your pull pull rudder servo, was wondering if you made the servo arm. If you did, how did you make the splines? Nice to see someone making hardware instead of buying everything.

[forgues research]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Bandito
	Great stuff Roger, good to know this tech is available. Regarding the whip antenna, does it give better reception or mostly cosmetic? Also I saw a pic of your pull pull rudder servo, was wondering if you made the servo arm. If you did, how did you make the splines? Nice to see someone making hardware instead of buying everything.

Y I make most of my servo arms , they are not hard to make and a bit cheaper then the really nice one, mine are not cosmetically nice but just as strong...

Roger

[Bandito]

Looked good to me. I'd have thought them factory if the corners were rounded.
Is the 7806 regulator a switching reg?

[forgues research]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Bandito
	Looked good to me. I'd have thought them factory if the corners were rounded. Is the 7806 regulator a switching reg?

Here is the Data sheet for the 7800 series
Roger

[Bandito]

Thanks Roger.

[tonyc9075]

Roger,
New landing gear for my Laser from Graph Tech, the G2 gear.
Take a look at this video of a Hanger 9 using G2 gear;

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://vimeo.com/8565653

The gear I was using was soft aluminum, not the good gear you received from Jack, mine was standard Hanger 9 aluminum gear.
The Laser lands so soft that I never thought I would need to replace the aluminum gear, WRONG, it would spread just a little every time I landed.
I watch a video of the G2 gear from Graph Tech and called them to see if they could do one for my Laser.
They modified a stock gear to fit my needs.
Here is what I got.
The landing gear is 6 ½ wide by 11 ½ tall and 24 inches at the wheels. The weight is 13.2 oz. Its 2” wide at base going down to 1 ¼ inches at the wheels.

Just got it mounted up. Here is a picture for you.

[jack strickland]

	Quote: Originally Posted by tonyc9075
	Roger, New landing gear for my Laser from Graph Tech, the G2 gear. Take a look at this video of a Hanger 9 using G2 gear; http://vimeo.com/8565653 The gear I was using was soft aluminum, not the good gear you received from Jack, mine was standard Hanger 9 aluminum gear. The Laser lands so soft that I never thought I would need to replace the aluminum gear, WRONG, it would spread just a little every time I landed. I watch a video of the G2 gear from Graph Tech and called them to see if they could do one for my Laser. They modified a stock gear to fit my needs. Here is what I got. The landing gear is 6 ½ wide by 11 ½ tall and 24 inches at the wheels. The weight is 13.2 oz. Its 2” wide at base going down to 1 ¼ inches at the wheels. Just got it mounted up. Here is a picture for you.

Hi Tony
Thought you got an unbent 2024 gear from me, and Scott bent it , or something like that. What happened to that gear? What was the cost of the c.f. gear? Others might like to know.

[forgues research]

	Quote: Originally Posted by tonyc9075
	Roger, New landing gear for my Laser from Graph Tech, the G2 gear. Take a look at this video of a Hanger 9 using G2 gear; http://vimeo.com/8565653 The gear I was using was soft aluminum, not the good gear you received from Jack, mine was standard Hanger 9 aluminum gear. The Laser lands so soft that I never thought I would need to replace the aluminum gear, WRONG, it would spread just a little every time I landed. I watch a video of the G2 gear from Graph Tech and called them to see if they could do one for my Laser. They modified a stock gear to fit my needs. Here is what I got. The landing gear is 6 ½ wide by 11 ½ tall and 24 inches at the wheels. The weight is 13.2 oz. Its 2” wide at base going down to 1 ¼ inches at the wheels. Just got it mounted up. Here is a picture for you.

Excellent,
Can you tell me what is the difference in weight is?

Roger

[tonyc9075]

	Quote: Originally Posted by jack strickland
	Hi Tony Thought you got an unbent 2024 gear from me, and Scott bent it , or something like that. What happened to that gear? What was the cost of the c.f. gear? Others might like to know.

Yes, thats right , Scott tried to bend it by hand while I was at his house. It looked good to me but Scott wasn't satisfied with the bent. He wanted to take it to work and do it on a press and mail it to my house. Darn thing got lost in the mail and I never had a chance to try it out.
I bought a set of aluminum gear from Hanger 9 and was using that for a long time. But its soft aluminum and would spread just a little each time.
The G2 gear from Graph Tech cost me less then $95. That inculded a $10 up charge to make the gear to my instructions. My gear was wider than there standard gear and made for a 28 lb plane.

Roger, the G2 gear was 6oz lighter then the soft aluminum gear. I never had a chance to weigh Jacks gear but I know his was lighter than the soft aluminum.

Tony