40% Turbo Laser (scratch built)

[tonyc9075]

	Quote: Originally Posted by jack strickland
	Hello Cracky You, among a few other staff members seem to have a positive outlook on misunderstood ideas, so I will just inject a thought about boost tabs on ailerons while torque rolling. Its my understanding that ailerons are not used during this helicopter type thing. Now if this is not factual please inform me as to the truth. Thanks Jack

Here is a picture of the BT on the ailerons on mine. The roll rate is very fast.

[SmoothFlying]

Does anyone know how to work a video camera and show how they work in flight?

[forgues research]

Please any everyone, I had a boost tab thread, it was shut down because of a lot of stupid post,

This thread is about the building a 40% Turbo prop laser,

No more post on boost tabs, you all had your chance ..

keep this on track.

Roger

[BTerry]

Time for a segue...

Roger,
What glue do you use to attach the sheeting to the ribs? Are you going to build this one with a flat upper wing surface/implied dihedral on the bottom? What wood will you use for the fuse formers? How about the fuse longerons, do you rip down the spruce from a larger board?

Lastly, I only have a jigsaw and no band saw. Is it possible to cut the formers/wing templates/etc on a jigsaw, or is it significantly easier on a band saw? I really love that I can get most of the building material at the local lumber store.

Thanks, love the build!

Brett

[SmoothFlying]

	Quote: Originally Posted by forgues research
	Please any everyone, I had a boost tab thread, it was shut down because of a lot of stupid post, This thread is about the building a 40% Turbo prop laser, No more post on boost tabs, you all had your chance .. keep this on track. Roger

Maybe it was shutdown because you didnt prove how they worked in flight on an RC plane like you talked about. If anyone was trying to prove me wrong I would have done what I needed to do to show how they work in flight like I was talking. Not a "just beleive me they work" deal.

[Cracky]

	Quote: Originally Posted by jack strickland
	Hello Cracky You, among a few other staff members seem to have a positive outlook on misunderstood ideas, so I will just inject a thought about boost tabs on ailerons while torque rolling. Its my understanding that ailerons are not used during this helicopter type thing. Now if this is not factual please inform me as to the truth. Thanks Jack

Thanks for the reply Jack. I don't quite remember my original post but I was more referring to low speed aerobatics where you need larger amounts of deflection (lots of throw, 35-45 degrees), not necessarily in a torque roll....but maybe using opposite aileron to prevent it. Maneuvers like: high-alpha knife-edge, rolling harriers, snap-a-saurus', waterfalls, harriers.

[forgues research]

	Quote: Originally Posted by BTerry
	Time for a segue... Roger, What glue do you use to attach the sheeting to the ribs? Are you going to build this one with a flat upper wing surface/implied dihedral on the bottom? What wood will you use for the fuse formers? How about the fuse longerons, do you rip down the spruce from a larger board? Lastly, I only have a jigsaw and no band saw. Is it possible to cut the formers/wing templates/etc on a jigsaw, or is it significantly easier on a band saw? I really love that I can get most of the building material at the local lumber store. Thanks, love the build! Brett

Brett,
I use carpenter's white glue to attach the sheeting to the foam ribs, I was using the yellow glue but Jack suggested the white glue because it sands better and he is right.

The top of the wings are flat , with the bottom being the dihedral.

Yes I use long straight pieces of either spruce, or even good pine for the wing spars. I have a bench saw you might have seen in one of the pictures, and I use an old aluminum level as a fence to keep things accurate. That's how I cut my own 1/4" inch squares, or bigger or smaller.
All the balsa stringers are also cut from balsa blocks.

make sure you don't use construction spruce, it will twist, if you want to use spruce , you should only use Sitka spruce, (expensive)

If you are going to build only one airplane from the plans, you can cut out the former drawing and glue them on to the plywood sheeting using a spray contact glue , then cut them with you're jig saw, I use a bench top bend saw but either way is good.

I find it easier using a band saw but then again I don't have a good jig saw, if you have a good one, that might be just as easy or easier.

I like to cut all of these while still showing the lines , then with a disc sander, sanding the remainder until the line disapears ,, there are 1000 ways to do this I'm sure but this is how I do it and of course with these threads I learn new tricks every day..

Roger

[forgues research]

My beautifull neighbor came to help cut the top of the wing so now I was able to do more work.

pictures will tell you more, and the glue I am using Brett.

Roger

[BTerry]

Question: What material did you use for the fuse formers?

(Rambling) Comments: I have in the past used mahogany plywood or aircraft plywood with good success, but my very favorite construction material was a plywood made of cross-grain balsa (thickness to suit) which was capped with thin (1/64" or 1/32" depending on the requirement) veneers of birch ply. It was strong, LIGHT, and highly torsionally resistant. It would work everywhere except the firewall and landing gear mount. To save on balsa I would cut the thin birch ply to shape using scissors, then rip off end grain balsa from a block using a bandsaw. I then take these endgrain pieces and mix and match and glue them onto the back piece of the former, trimming as I go and reusing the chunks to fill in the gaps. Then glue on the top piece, weight it down, and wait for it to dry. After dry I would trim and sand it to its final shape. The end result is extremely strong and light. A lot of work to be sure, but was pretty fun too. Worked great in electrics back when the state of the art power systems used Astroflight Cobalt motors and Sanyo SCR NiCd cells. With brushless and LiPo this is not needed.

I am lucky because most of the available Sitka Spruce is either grown in Washington or Oregon, or harvested in British Columbia (most of it) and imported through Seattle (near me). There are many retailers nearby so I don't necessarily need to purchase online. If I did I would probably buy from Aircraft Spruce.

I am just thinking out loud here about my own build (someday...possibly this winter). I don't want to distract from your build here! Keep it up.

Brett

p.s. my initials are BT (Brett Terry), so I am thinking of changing my member name to "Boost Tab". You know, just to add a speed sensitive aerodynamic force to help move the control surface into place and take a load off the servo. I'm just saying...

[forgues research]

	Quote: Originally Posted by BTerry
	Question: What material did you use for the fuse formers? (Rambling) Comments: I have in the past used mahogany plywood or aircraft plywood with good success, but my very favorite construction material was a plywood made of cross-grain balsa (thickness to suit) which was capped with thin (1/64" or 1/32" depending on the requirement) veneers of birch ply. It was strong, LIGHT, and highly torsionally resistant. It would work everywhere except the firewall and landing gear mount. To save on balsa I would cut the thin birch ply to shape using scissors, then rip off end grain balsa from a block using a bandsaw. I then take these endgrain pieces and mix and match and glue them onto the back piece of the former, trimming as I go and reusing the chunks to fill in the gaps. Then glue on the top piece, weight it down, and wait for it to dry. After dry I would trim and sand it to its final shape. The end result is extremely strong and light. A lot of work to be sure, but was pretty fun too. Worked great in electrics back when the state of the art power systems used Astroflight Cobalt motors and Sanyo SCR NiCd cells. With brushless and LiPo this is not needed. I am lucky because most of the available Sitka Spruce is either grown in Washington or Oregon, or harvested in British Columbia (most of it) and imported through Seattle (near me). There are many retailers nearby so I don't necessarily need to purchase online. If I did I would probably buy from Aircraft Spruce. I am just thinking out loud here about my own build (someday...possibly this winter). I don't want to distract from your build here! Keep it up. Brett p.s. my initials are BT (Brett Terry), so I am thinking of changing my member name to "Boost Tab". You know, just to add a speed sensitive aerodynamic force to help move the control surface into place and take a load off the servo. I'm just saying...

You are not distracting, au contraire, informational.

For the fuse sides I use 1/8 ply light ply. but with piston engine with more vibration ,I would use 1/8 aircraft ply .

Roger

[BTerry]

	Quote: Originally Posted by forgues research
	You are not distracting, au contraire, informational. For the fuse sides I use 1/8 ply light ply. but with piston engine with more vibration ,I would use 1/8 aircraft ply . Roger

For some reason I keep thinking this plane has formers and stringers. I forgot that is doesn't have those, as it is effectively a truss structure. You are right, the 1/8" aircraft ply would be advisable.

I am working out, in my head anyway, a plan to build a 40% and use my BME 110 with full exhaust. I will also throw in a few other tricks along the way. Right now I am working out the spar details along with a few other mods. After it is all over I will probably be better off buying a used 150cc engine with the money saved on building the airframe myself. I would love to try Stits Ceconite again too!

What size are the spar caps and the shear webs?

[forgues research]

	Quote: Originally Posted by BTerry
	For some reason I keep thinking this plane has formers and stringers. I forgot that is doesn't have those, as it is effectively a truss structure. You are right, the 1/8" aircraft ply would be advisable. I am working out, in my head anyway, a plan to build a 40% and use my BME 110 with full exhaust. I will also throw in a few other tricks along the way. Right now I am working out the spar details along with a few other mods. After it is all over I will probably be better off buying a used 150cc engine with the money saved on building the airframe myself. I would love to try Stits Ceconite again too! What size are the spar caps and the shear webs?

Yes it is basically a stick built airplane,

Stits covering is very nice, but be carefull , it will add weight...

Roger

[BTerry]

	Quote: Originally Posted by forgues research
	Yes it is basically a stick built airplane, Stits covering is very nice, but be carefull , it will add weight... Roger

That is right. Now that I think of it, I used Sig Koverall instead of the ceconite under the paint. That saved a bit, but the paint is really the heaviest component.

Ugh, back to monokote. maybe I can paint it.

[BTerry]

	Quote: Originally Posted by BTerry
	What size are the spar caps and the shear webs?

Roger, I believe your spar caps are 1/4" square but what is the thickness of the shear webs?

[jack strickland]

	Quote: Originally Posted by TeamFlatout
	Does anyone know how to work a video camera and show how they work in flight?

Whats a video camera?? We are all to dumb to know anything anyway, because we don't live in Ga. Give it a rest why don't you. Good grief