DL-30 / DLE-30

[Super08]

Jody is right on the money. I am just as picky. (anal) This is what I use now. Before I used a modified spark plug. A M10x1.0 bolt will work as well, just don't jamb the piston up against it unless you don't mind little dings in the top of your piston.

[flyboy57id]

Thanks for all the help guys!
I have a piston stop and will try it that way also. I just used the dial indicator because I had just used it to check the runout of the single bolt prop adapter that I installed on the engine. If nobody has heard about a new timing circuit that wanted 35 degrees BTDC on a DLE 30, I am going to set it at 28 Degrees BTDC.

I really like those single bolt prop adapters! All those bolts are not needed and it is alot easier changing props. When installing a single bolt prop adapter it makes a difference which holes you use when installing the adapter. If you are really anal, you have to install the adapter 4 times turning the adapter 90 degrees each time and then check the runout. It does make a difference!
Thanks again for your help!
Gordon

[bob_nj]

When you use a piston stop, how do you when it's screwed in to the right depth?

Who sells them?

Thanks
Bob

[antique]

Depth does not matter,. you just screw it in and rock the degree wheel back and forth until it stops, set it so it stops the same degree each way, center between the two is TDC
Horizon has the stops, probably Daves Discount motors, maybe some chinese suppliers ...
a 10 mm bolt from your local hardware store does the same thing, cheaper and no shipping...A correctly made adapter will not need centering, it will be concentric....If the prop hub was made correctly and is concentric to the crank....check your chinese engines with an indicator, you might be surprised. And no prop is perfectly centered from center to each tip, if you're that anal

Like I said, most of this stuff is much ado about nothing...

[bob_nj]

OK, I went to the hardware store and got a bolt.
Then I "eyed" up TDC the way antique said.
Got the piston to where it just starts to where the piston just starts to drop.
I set my wheel at zero, even though this is just an estimate.

So now I screw the bolt in.
That's where it goes bad.
Nothing I do after that makes sense.

Someone say something that will get me through this...

Thanks
Bob

[Super08]

Put the engine about 30-45 degrees off of center and then screw in the bolt. move the hub until it stops when it hits the bolt. Look at how many degrees you are at. Then rotate the hub in the opposite difection until it stops again. Read what it says. Then bend the pointer or move the degree wheel half of the difference and then recheck in both directions untill the read exactly the same each way. Once they do remove the bolt and when the pointer points at 0 you are exactly at TDC and ready to check your timing.

[bob_nj]

OK, I'm going down to give it a go.

When you say "off center", where is that taken from?

Wish me luck...

[Super08]

Either side of TDC so the piston is not at the top when you put the bolt in. For future use if you have access to a grinder you can round off the end of the bolt and it will be gentle on the top of your piston.

[bcchi]

	Quote: Originally Posted by antique
	Depth does not matter,. you just screw it in and rock the degree wheel back and forth until it stops, set it so it stops the same degree each way, center between the two is TDC Horizon has the stops, probably Daves Discount motors, maybe some chinese suppliers ... a 10 mm bolt from your local hardware store does the same thing, cheaper and no shipping...A correctly made adapter will not need centering, it will be concentric....If the prop hub was made correctly and is concentric to the crank....check your chinese engines with an indicator, you might be surprised. And no prop is perfectly centered from center to each tip, if you're that anal Like I said, most of this stuff is much ado about nothing...

No way can I find TDC as you say,my engine is mounted inverted.What do I do now.
Grumpy no two.

[Super08]

LOL Bill

[bob_nj]

OK, I understand now.
I checked a different brand of 30cc engine that is new and right out of the box that should be at 30° and it was 28°
Sounds like I should run it that way and see what happens.

I am having a problem with a used/almost new 30cc of the same brand as above (not DLE) that I just got in a plane.
It runs fine other than idle.
It will fast idle when the throttle is brought down to around 3000 rpm, and then in about 10 seconds fall to around 1700. I flew the plane a couple of times like that thinking it may still be new, but it quits unexpectedly which makes for precarious flights.

It doesn't "appear" to be a tuning issue as I've messed with the needles a bit, and it doesn't "appear" to be a servo issue. That being said I checked the timing on IT. Should be 30° and it was 26°

Would the 4° of retard cause the issue I'm seeing?
I know it's hard to say over a keyboard, but I'm grasping at straws here.

The previous owner did put the tank on the cg which makes for a long run of fuel line, and he put a one way valve just behind the carb so fuel wouldn't run back to the tank. Not sure if that would make a difference or not?

So, the only things I didn't try was new fuel line, although it doesn't "appear" to be leaking anywhere, and the timing. I'll run it today or tomorrow to see if the timing bump makes any difference.

Plug is relatively new and gapped properly.

I will say that on this engine anyway, it's a delicate balance to keep the timing where you want it after tightening the screws on the sensor. It changed every time I tightened down the screws so I had to "lead" it a little.

Thanks for any ideas, and Happy Holidays!

Bob

[Super08]

Four degrees of timing will have little effect. Sounds like it is lean on the low end.

[jerrysu29]

I would say the engine is running rich. The RPM's dropping from around 3,000 to 1700 would indicate a rich bottom end setting. The first setting I set is the bottom. I intentionly set the top end at 1 1/2 turn then set the bottom at the factory low needle setting of 1 1/4 turn. Start the engine run to high idle to make sure it is not lean(engine will bog or try to die) then return to low idle let the engine run at least one minute around 2,000 rpm if the RPM's go higher the engine is lean, if the RPM's go down engine is rich. Once the engine runs a constant rpm of 2,000 rpm and transitions instantaneously your there. Then set the top end needle setting to arouond 200 rpm lower than peak rpm. Happy Holidays to Every one

[bob_nj]

When I tried to lean the low end, the engine wouldn't take the throttle so I knew it was too lean.
This is not a DL, so maybe it's a little different in the way it acts.

I changed some fuel line, and the timing.
Hopefully tomorrow I'll run it in the yard.
Supposed to be windy...

[luckde]

	Quote: Originally Posted by bob_nj
	When I tried to lean the low end, the engine wouldn't take the throttle so I knew it was too lean. This is not a DL, so maybe it's a little different in the way it acts. I changed some fuel line, and the timing. Hopefully tomorrow I'll run it in the yard. Supposed to be windy...

I have struggled with similar syntoms, and while it can be caused for many reasons, crud in the screen has been the most frequent cause.