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#1 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 26
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I fly Futaba and I can't get my local Team Futaba guy to return my call so here I am. What seems to be the consensus for a power system for a 33% or 35% aerobatic airplane these days? Take into consideration that I WILL NOT be competing with this airplane and that I will only be using it for precision type flying. One switch? Two? Two batteries into one receiver? Two receivers? How many milliamps. Servos will be 5 9156's and something standard on throttle.
My thinking is 2 2700ma 5 cell NiMH batteries and 2 switches into one Futaba receiver. With the 6014 overheating/shutting down problem though, I dont know what 2.4 receiver(s) to use. Any help would be appreciated from other Futaba guys. Last edited by martyh; 07-28-2009 at 02:06 PM. |
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#2 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,128
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Marty,
Powering a 33-35% plane these days is pretty easy. The Futaba 6014 (14 channel) or the 2.4 8 channel is quite adequate for the job. With the 5 servo loading you mention, your idea to use two 2700 packs and two switches will be more than adequate. The heat issues has been resolved with the introduction of he new equipment. Even the new 6014's are OK so please feel safe to use them. I power my 42% Dalton 300, DA 170 RE3 tuned pipe setup with 8 9157 servos, two A123 2300 cell packs, and two Smart-Fly HD switches. Most people these days are not using dual receivers for larger planes. I would feel totally safe with your setup, using a single receiver. I hope this helps. Jim
__________________
Team Futaba / Dalton Aviation / Desert Aircraft / YS Parts & Service / Budd Engineering / Smart-Fly / Competitionairframes.com / Netbox Hobby |
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#3 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 26
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Thanks for the reply. Are you saying there is a new version of the 6014? I have been using the 608's in my helis to avoid the whole shutdown issue.
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#4 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Flamingos are everywhere!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Johns Creek, GA
Age: 44
Posts: 7,158
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he is in Oshkosh and has been for several days..... Jim's advise is sound...
__________________
EXTREMEFLIGHT R/C Tech support 2011 IMAC Southeast Regional Director/IMAC Sequence Committee / IMAC Judging Instructor TEAM FUTABA |
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#5 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,128
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Thanks Curtis,
As far as I know Marty, there have been improvements made to the 6014. Other people have taken exhaustive steps to "bake" the receivers to verify that higher operating temperatures exist now. thanks, Jim
__________________
Team Futaba / Dalton Aviation / Desert Aircraft / YS Parts & Service / Budd Engineering / Smart-Fly / Competitionairframes.com / Netbox Hobby |
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#6 |
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Sink Stinks!!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Orange County, CA
Age: 56
Posts: 3,859
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As far as the packs go be careful with the 2700 packs. Most are made with the Sanyo cells with an internal impedance (II) around 27 milliohms.
No BS has GP 2700 cells with an II of 13 milliohms. Good but not as good as you can get. I would go with dual packs made from the Sanyo 4/5 A NiMH cells. 6 milliohms II, very low voltage drop under load, and a great pack. On the Futaba High Speed Mode receivers the higher frame rate does NOT make your servos faster, increase resolution, or reduce latency. What it does is allows the servo to develop full holding torque faster. This is not a big deal in most airplanes, but it is a huge deal in 3D helicopters when they are pumping the sticks as fast as possible. Getting full holding torque at the stops is very important to them. http://www.hangtimes.com/giantrxpacks.html Two packs, two switches, one 6014 RX and you are all set. BTW - internal impedance is also called internal resistance, no matter the name, the lower the better. Higher numbers mean greater voltage drop under load.
__________________
Team Futaba I get free Tee shirts, so I must be lying ![]()
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#7 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 26
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I know about the 2700ma cell issue. The AA cells are the ones to avoid. The ones I use are the Sanyo A cells (HR-AU). I have a 6014 available on hand but I have had it for a while. If ordering a new one, how can I tell if it's old stock?
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#8 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Hereford , England
Age: 48
Posts: 235
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I have a 97'' H9 Sukhoi with 9156`s all round .I only have 1x 4500 lipo going through a Powerbox digi switch . I have a Futaba 608 Rx and all is fine . As a guide after 3 x 11 minute flights the set up takes approx 535 mah out of the pack .
Hope this helps |
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#9 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 314
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Marty,
If you get a new 6014, make sure it is labeled as a 6014HS. The HS was first introduced in the US in April 2009. If you check Towers website look for Item# FUTL7645. I put a 6014HS in an oven and it worked fine at 205 degF. I didn't feel the need to go any higher!
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#10 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Sink Stinks!!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Orange County, CA
Age: 56
Posts: 3,859
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As far as the RX goes, there is NOTHING wrong with the original version. It works as advertised with a temp limit of about 140 to 150 degrees. Unfortunately you can get it this hot if it is exposed under the bare canopy, or next to the pipes, etc. Those that made sure it was kept out of direct sun and properly vented the fuse reported no issues. Having said that, if you look under where the antennas come out and you see a tiny gold dot it is one of the newer more temperature tolerant versions. And ALL of the new 6014HS receivers are more temperature tolerant. Basically if you see a dot near the antenna on any of the FASST receivers they can take more temperature abuse than the older ones without a dot.
__________________
Team Futaba I get free Tee shirts, so I must be lying ![]()
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#11 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 26
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Now THAT's news I can use. Thanks. I'll watch for the dot if its not the new version.
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