PAU 30% Extra 300SP

[Tseres]

I have not changed or fixed anything yet. Did a lot of checking and it seams that the engine is in the right place and the cowl is off.
I taped the plug that I cut out for my carb, back in. The black pencil mark above the top holes is supposed to be the center line of the top holes if I should move the engine to match the cowl. I'm worried about doing this cause it looks like the engine would be moved off the thrust line and that would not be a good thing.
Since this is the first production run. Is it possible that the Cowl ring is glued in off location?
It seams to me that I should cut the mounting ring out of the cowl and move the cowl to the spinner.
I understand that this might be first production teething pains. It could be that I'm just wrong.
I'm a retired Tool and Die Maker. I have confidence in my ability to measure. I'm not an engineer and can't make up my mind as to which way to go with the fix. I do want to fly beginner class IMAC with this plane next year so it is important to me that it is straight.

Old Tom

[CSpaced]

I haven't mounted my engine yet beacuse I'm waiting on some material to come through the mail to make standoff's. I should get it in the next day or so (well Monday I guess) so I'll have a little more input on this once I mount my Engine.

Does the cowl fit flush against the fuse when the you have the cowl ring bolted in place?

[Tseres]

	Quote: Originally Posted by CSpaced
	I haven't mounted my engine yet beacuse I'm waiting on some material to come through the mail to make standoff's. I should get it in the next day or so (well Monday I guess) so I'll have a little more input on this once I mount my Engine. Does the cowl fit flush against the fuse when the you have the cowl ring bolted in place?

Yes the cowl fits really nice accept it has 3/8" lip at the top and just a little less then a 1/4" at he bottom. This would indicate that if the back of the cowl is straight and square then the cowl would go high in the front.
I experimented with shimming the cowl out on the top by 1/8" . The cowl fit almost perfect. I'm 98% decided on cutting the ring out and repositioning the cowl. You guys can help me out by telling me what kind of glue to use since I have never glued anything to fiberglass before.

Old Tom

[CSpaced]

You can use 30 minute epoxy to glue the cowl ring back in, and clamp it so it doesn't shift while the glue cures. How are you going to cut the ring lose?

[Tseres]

	Quote: Originally Posted by CSpaced
	You can use 30 minute epoxy to glue the cowl ring back in, and clamp it so it doesn't shift while the glue cures. How are you going to cut the ring lose?

#11 exacto blade. It's a pain but it works. Got about 2/3 cut out already. I'm being very careful so I don't mess up the paint. I found out that it was epoxied in at the factory. I'm cutting between the wood and the glue.I'm being very careful to keep the blade flat to the F/G.once through in one spot I'm just wiggling the blade back and fourth with a light pressure. It seams to pop the glue joint between the glass and the glue.
Therein lies a problem with a well built plane. It's hard to take apart.He He!!

Old Tom

[66stang]

Wow pretty plane! If you decide to move the ring. I would also add some fiberglass cloth in stripes! I would do it on it even if you don't move it. My WH was glued but after awhile it will crack at the ring. The fiberglass cloth has stopped that from happening.

[Tseres]

Got it fixed.
I ended up not cutting the top of the ring out. Just the 2 sides and the bottom. I cleaned up the old glue with a dremel tool and some sandpaper where I wasn't brave enough to use the dremel.
Very happy with the outcome.
It's over 90 F today so the epoxy was drying to fast and I could only get some F/G cloth (2 oz.) on the two sides so tomorrow I will add another Layer of epoxy and put some more cloth where I still don't have any.

Old Tom

[Tseres]

I forgot to mention that when I positioned the cowl in place I used some medium CA and some excelerator to spot glue the ring. I used wax paper to keep from gluing the ring to the fuse.
Old Tom

[CSpaced]

Looks good Tom, you did a nice job straightening it out!

[Tseres]

Got the ignition, muffler, throttle and rudder servos, switches and fuel dot mounted. Roughed in the clearance on the bottom of cowl.
Tomorrow I'm going to make my first attempt at pull pull cable set up and cut clearance in the spinner for the prop.

Old Tom

[CSpaced]

Looking good Tom, you'll have it finished in no time.

I got my stand off material in today, and after spending some time cutting and sanding I ended up with a perfect set of 3" stand off's. The only problem is that the inside diameter hole is for 1/4-20, I didn't realize the DA50 used a smaller diameter bolt .

[Tseres]

	Quote: Originally Posted by CSpaced
	Looking good Tom, you'll have it finished in no time. I got my stand off material in today, and after spending some time cutting and sanding I ended up with a perfect set of 3" stand offs. The only problem is that the inside diameter hole is for 1/4-20, I didn't realize the DA50 used a smaller diameter bolt .

Mine had 10-32 screws also but I opened up the hole in the ears to fit a 1/4" crew. I did this cause I'm OCD. He He. Actually I did it cause the I'm using a 4in long screw with some home made stand offs on my P-47 and I taught that that would be to much vibration at such a long distance for a #10 screw. It only takes out about .025 wall thickness. I believe it to be negligible.

Old Tom

[CSpaced]

I just had a "Eureka" moment and realized that I can use the 2.5" aluminum stand offs that I already had, and use the material I bought to make up the other 1/2" I need on the 1/4-20 side (the firewall side). I'm a little shy of drilling the mounting ears on the engine itself, but I think this will work out just fine

[Tseres]

There's more than one way to skin a cat.

[Unbalanced]

Hey Chris, is the firewall/motorbox sealed?