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#1 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 6
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Hi all
Im new to this size of engine and just resived my first 50cc being a DLE 55.Can any of you out there just give me a bit of advise on the running in through to my first flight with it kev |
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#2 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 262
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1. Install using loctite. Rig a manual choke level with a push rod that comes to the front of the cowl. Choke servos are for sissies. Use an optical shut-off device like the Smart-Fly optical shut off as a safety to make sure you can kill the engine with a switch on your radio if you need to.
2. Use a 22x8 prop for break-in 3. Use ashless oil at a 32:1 ratio for break-in (break in is usually 4-5 gallons) 4. Leave the cowl off the first time you fire it up to make sure it all works. Obviously, have someone hold it back for you it tie it back. Maybe sure that no slack develops in your tie off system at any point - make sure that the line is taut each time before flipping the prop. Use a glove or a stick if you would like. 5. DO NOT follow the part of the instruction manual that tells you to choke it at full throttle. Just choke it with a cracked throttle until it pops. This should take a dozen or so flips with a new engine to get it primed. Then unchoke and flip a few more times (you may need to give it a little more throttle here - again, just a hair) until it fires up. You will feel like God when it does. It's awesome 6. If your lucky, you will experience what I just experienced with my new DLE-55 and the needles won't need any adjustments. Adjust the end point of your throttle servo to give you a nice idle. Let it idle a bit and warm up and then slowly advance to full throttle. You want it to get up to full with little or no hesitation or bogging down. Let is run at full for a few second and then cut the throttle back to zero. Make sure that it doesn't die. Let it idle a bit more and then try to surprise it by jamming it to full again. If it doesn't die during all of that, then your probably OK as a good starting point for a maiden and trying to fine tune it might only make it worse. If it is hesitating or dying, come back to FG and search for "how to tune a gas engine". There's plenty on the topic. There's no reason to run it too long on the ground - it just build heat. I always break-in in the air. 7. Put the cowl back on and then drill a hole through the cowl that will allow you to access the tuning needles with a long screwdriver. 8. Go fly the beast. I idle mine high in the air by adjusting the throttle trim and then bring it back to my low idle for landing. Stay away from full throttle for extended periods of time and don't hover it for the first few flights (ideally, you wouldn't hover it for a few gallons, but who can resist with a new plane?). Keep your flights short (under 10 minutes, although your first one should probably be five to see what has shaken loose). Let it cool down plenty in between flights. Repeat until you have run many gallons through it. It will get stronger as it goes and you should be able to slowly lean it out as it breaks in. 9. If this is your first gas then I should also warn you - you must be extremely diligent about checking servos, cowl, engine, everything after every flight to see what might be loosening due to the vibration. It's always something that you didn't check - I had a screw back out of an elevator servo arm on a recent flight and it was pretty hairy bringing it down with only one elevator. You pretty much have to do this for the life of the plane - obviously, during the build you should be using loctite on most metal to metal connections and some CA when things are screwed into wood. I put some silicone on top of all my servos to keep the screws from coming out. 10. Enjoy! Ryan Last edited by AllBread; 08-22-2009 at 09:11 AM. |
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#3 |
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DIESEL FAN CLUB MEMBER
![]() Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: hollywood florida & Daytona
Posts: 1,966
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#4 |
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go fast, dont crash.
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: south dirty jersey
Posts: 1,649
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hey bud not shure if allbread said so but also DO NOT try to tune the carb with the engine running. thats more dangerous than poop on a stick.
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Your 2010 SNAP-A-SAURUS CHAMPION!!! |
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#5 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: North wales UK
Posts: 15
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Hi, all good advice above, if you using a manual choke we have just started to make these.
ready to fit, all you need to do is remove the standard choke horne and replace with a collet type horn at 180 deg to the original position. we can ship internationally, they are £20 sterling, so with current exchange rate aprox $32 plus shipping. the dl is a good strong engine, you should have no problems with it. Allan Griffihts www.cestrianrc.webs.com |
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#6 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Super Moderated Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA, SD, Worthing
Posts: 5,916
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Does it come with a lower one also so you don't change the thrust angle on the engine? |
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#7 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: North wales UK
Posts: 15
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Hi ericb.
the choke set up does not change the thrust line of the engine at all, the braket attaches to face of the engine mount lugs, so the engine mount faces sit direct on to your stand offs, thus not effecting the thrust line of the engine. regards Allan Griffiths. www.cestrianrc.webs.com. |
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#8 |
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Super Contributer
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Age: 47
Posts: 134
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Here's how I rigged the choke on mine. Terrible picture, but you can probably get the idea. Nothing fancy, but it works.
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Straighten Up and Fly Right! ![]() ![]() GO POKES!!! |
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#9 |
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If you can't HUCK it BLING IT!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Just Moved.......Hampton VA
Age: 37
Posts: 9,269
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What's the going price on these DLE55's now. Seems like they jumped in price and now there isn't much gap from a DA/3W price.
where is everyone getting them and what muffler (pitts style) are folks using?
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Offical Member of Team Caribou Lou "Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But the U.S. ARMED FORCES don't have that problem." ...Ronald Reagan |
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#10 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: toledo ohio
Posts: 6,698
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http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/DL55ENGINE.html
$410 still. tbm,valleyview, and southeast. |
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#11 | ||||||||||||||||||
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That's at least a 9
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Federal Way, WA
Posts: 1,773
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Stock muffler is fine, I'm using a MTW 75TDK with a flex header. I bought mine from Valley View. $410 from Valley View, free shipping, comes with a Zoar 22X8 prop, usually pre drilled. |
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#12 | ||||||||||||||||||
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go fast, dont crash.
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: south dirty jersey
Posts: 1,649
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i got mine from dan at sout east rc engines http://www.southeastrcengines.com/index.html it was $399.95 thats all i paid. that included shipping a FREE prop it comes with a muffler and ignition. i dident use that muffler tho i used the wrap around one off my zdz bolted right up so i dident have to cut my cowl up any more. i caled him before i ordered it and he answered all my questions thoroughly and did not rush me off the phone. good dude.
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Your 2010 SNAP-A-SAURUS CHAMPION!!! |
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#13 |
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go fast, dont crash.
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: south dirty jersey
Posts: 1,649
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one more thing, this is twice the engine of the zdz50ng what a POS that thing was
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Your 2010 SNAP-A-SAURUS CHAMPION!!! |
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#14 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1
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What about changing the spark plug that comes with the engine? I've heard to pitch it and get a new plug, can't remember the name or model #.
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#15 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Riley O'Brien
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Waverly, NE
Posts: 1,899
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Do it. Ngk cm6 is the plug. |
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