Comp ARF KANGAROO HELP !!

[BillJ]

Have picked up a 3/4 built New kit... Have several manuals that loosley refer to mounting the phanolic control horns . The rudder horns are here but no cut outs or diagram for the mounting...

Looks like you cut a slot into the rudder and epoxy in place... Looks a little shakey to me ...and the exact location of the slot cutting is a minor mystery...

Anyone out there that has built one of these ..your help is appreciated. Thought about just a set of Giant scale horns bolted to the rudders.. But I'd rather have the others if possible...


Thanks

Bill

[MODE 1]

Isn't there some slots under the covering near the LE you can see or feel? That's usually the case.

Doh scratch that .......its glass isnt it?

[MODE 1]

These might help you

[BillJ]

Yep, Glass.. I'm assuming that jets don't use alot of rudder...Seems like cut a slot and glue this into it is not the sturdiest setup

[MODE 1]

Yeah should be just fine the idea is used on many models of various types but don't use the 10 min epoxy it softens over time . I use Araldite 24hr. I tell ya the rudder will break long before the joint ever does.

[BillJ]

How about the servos used. for rudder.. ? I hate to say it...but the only ones I have to use at the moment are 5955's....Might be a bit of overkill on this plane...Could you use 821 digitals or sim ??

Looks like the push rod from rudder to servo is really long ..8 to 10" Just use a 4/40 maybe with a carbon rod overlay ??

[MODE 1]

Nothing wrong with using more powerful servos than needed if you can supply the power to them in bat capacity, weight.
I know some ppl that use 8711's on a throttle.......it was all they had at the time of building.

Yeah i do the same with long rods put a thin cf tube over them ....adds no weight makes it more rigid and looks better.

[BillJ]

Ok... Do you set the horn perpendicular to the rudder hinge and use a ball link to get the angle back to the servo ....Or set to horn for a straight pull to the rudder..... My guess is the first to maintain the leverage...But asking out here before I start cutting

[MODE 1]

First suggestion yes so its at 90 degrees to the TE

[Thomas_W]

clevis/ball joint connection should be inline with the hinge line. You want the pushrod and control arm to be parallel with each other. Their "should" be a balsa "block" where the control arm gets glued (hysol'd) in place.. if not, you need to add them.

While building it, keep AS MUCH weight as possible in the tail, as they almost always build nose heavy.