DLE55 Ignition battery

[stan klick]

The user manual for my DLE55 does not not cover the ignition voltage. The ignition module itself says the working voltage should be 4.8 to 6.0 volts. The guys at the field says you must install a voltage regulator at 5.6 volts. To all you DLE55 users out there, what are you using and has anyone experienced any problems ?.. Thanks Stan

[Bunky F. Knuckle]

You can use NiCad/NiMH with no regulator either 4.8V or 6V. But with the A123's, LiPoly/Ion type batteries, then yes, you would want to use a regulator.

[f5air]

correct, im using 7.4V li-ion 2600 fromeco battery for my ignition with a smart-fly ing. regulator. If you use 4.8 is ok.

[Jedijody]

Do not use a 6 volt (5 cell) battery without a regulator, max input voltage is 6 volts, a fully charged 5 cell NiMh or NiCad battery can be well over 7 volts. The extra voltage makes the CDI very inefficient and consume more current causing batteries to be consumed in a shorter period of time. The extra and unnecessary voltage and current is also shed off in the form of heat, this heat shortens the duty cycle of the CDI module.

[ibanezex718]

I use a 4.8v NiMh 2000mah unregulated of course, works flawless and you save weight by not using a regulator

[JoeAirPort]

Excessive heat in any electronics shortens their life....as Jody pointed out. Just use a 4-cell NiCd/NiMh and the ignition will last forever. If you absolutely need to run a 5 cell or any other Lithium pack regulate it down to 5 volts.

[Tired Old Man]

The ignition consumes roughly 450 ma/hour. A 4.8v, 1,000 ma battery will last for a little better than 2 hours of flying time before needing recharged. 6v or more heats up the ignition, shortening it's lifespan. A twin RC Xcl ignition consumes double what the single does.

The choice of batteries is yours, but you cannot fast charge a nimh, lipoly, or li-on.. Simple or complicated, inexpensive or expensive. Any of them are available.

[ibanezex718]

This is a little off subject but, does anyone know of a easy way to get the prop hub off? I removed prop hub nut, but it seems the rest is pressed on there. Any ideas would be heplful.

[Jedijody]

It's locktite, use a small puller. If you use to much heat it can ruin the magnet and then you will have no spark.

[Tired Old Man]

A heat gun used for electrical work seems to work pretty good, but the magnet can present a problem.

[JoeAirPort]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Jedijody
	It's locktite, use a small puller.

I heard a prop drilling jig works great for this. Is this true?

[zoomer260]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Tired Old Man
	The ignition consumes roughly 450 ma/hour. A 4.8v, 1,000 ma battery will last for a little better than 2 hours of flying time before needing recharged. 6v or more heats up the ignition, shortening it's lifespan. A twin RC Xcl ignition consumes double what the single does. The choice of batteries is yours, but you cannot fast charge a nimh, lipoly, or li-on.. Simple or complicated, inexpensive or expensive. Any of them are available.

So on the NiMh what is considered fast ? I think I have a 1600 Ma and a 2000 or something like that in the only plane I'm flying right now and since my Accu Cycle took a dump I have been using a Hobbico Quick Field Charger .

I usually set it at 1 amp or so for both and I fly about 40 minutes a charge. I think I have gone to 1.5 amps on the larger one.

This does not take long.

I currently have no way of knowing how much I use in a flight. Need to do something about that.

[Jedijody]

Most NiCad and NiMh batteries have a max safe charge rate of 1C. A 1500 Mh battery would have a max safe charge rate of 1.5 amps. Lithium chemistry batteries have various maximum charge rates so consult the batteries literature or its manufacturer.

[Al Lewis]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ibanezex718
	This is a little off subject but, does anyone know of a easy way to get the prop hub off? I removed prop hub nut, but it seems the rest is pressed on there. Any ideas would be heplful.

If you have a drill jig simply bolt it onto the hub face through the four bolt holes and run the center bolt in. It will push against the crank and pull the hub off. Once it breaks loose from the taper it should fall off. Of course you have to remove the center nut first. A little heat on the hub with a heat gun should loosen the Locktite.

[Jedijody]

	Quote: Originally Posted by JoeAirPort
	I heard a prop drilling jig works great for this. Is this true?

If you have a PSP type drill guide that uses a 1/4-20 bolt to hold the guide onto the prop as you drill it, yes, they can be used as a puller but you would need a 1/4-20 bolt with about 2" of threads to get it to pull the hub all the way off. If the drill guide is used as a puller, be sure to grind the tip of the center bolt to a shallow point to prevent flaring the end of the crankshaft threads.

There is no taper to a DL50/55 crankshaft so it needs to be pulled all the way off.