Futaba 14mz - loose neck strap hook

[rcflyer]

My 14mz neck strap hook is getting wobbly. Has any 14mz owner removed the rear Tx cover and tighten the neck strap hook?

[Josh Price]

I would suggest to send it in. from what I have been told there is more to it then taking a few screws out.

[Ian]

ive taken the back off of my 12Z, and it is a mass of PCBs and wires. The 14MZ will be much worse with that screen. you have to remember, these things aren't a normal TX, they are nearer computers, so its very busy in that case!

[Sukhoikid]

Not a neck strap issue, but my handle is a little loose, but doesnt feel like it wants to come out. I need to send my 14mz in due to the touch screen. Its been a year and half and it is getting hard to touch for programming.

[Rolling Thunder]

One of our 14MZ users had his breakoff 2 weeks ago while flying. Transmitter dropped the ground.

[Judge]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Rolling Thunder
	One of our 14MZ users had his breakoff 2 weeks ago while flying. Transmitter dropped the ground.

Another great argument for using a tray!!

Beyond that, some people have found that using one of the CG adapters to get the TX to balance with the 2.4 module can put a lot of strain on the strap mount. Just somethinf to be careful with. And I suggest sending the radio in to have it tightened up, the inside is not a place for the weak of heart to be routing around.

[Sukhoikid]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Rolling Thunder
	One of our 14MZ users had his breakoff 2 weeks ago while flying. Transmitter dropped the ground.

That is why I go with no neck strap. I need to start at least using a tray, but i am a thumb flyer.

[rcflyer]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Rolling Thunder
	One of our 14MZ users had his breakoff 2 weeks ago while flying. Transmitter dropped the ground.

Did the plastic housing break or the hook was unfastened from the inside?

[Rolling Thunder]

It broke from inside the tranmitter and the whole assembly pulled out.

[Bryan Mailloux]

This is what I use.
Great innovation by a great guy.
http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/f...-balancer.html

[rcflyer]

I managed to tighten the bolt inside the 14mz and the strap hook is really snug now. To open the rear cover, remove the plastic base, the antenna housing, the left and right switch blocks. There are a few small screws at the top (only can be seen once the antenna housing and the switch blocks are removed) that need to be unfastened. There are a three connectors to the rear cover (battery compartment area) that need to be detached. Once in, the tx module pcb and the main pcb need to be disconnected partially to move them a little to the left so that the hook bolt can be accessed. The are two types of connectors, molex type and ribbon type that can be easily disconnected/reconnected but carefully, noting them down on a paper so that I know exactly which needs to be reconnected. Instead of having to remove the all the connectors and the housing for the LCD circuitry, I made a small access hole through the black plastic so that I can access the bolt directly. This hole will come in handy if the hook loosens up again. I was also happy to see that my pots are the white type which are the upgraded version from the older blue pots. Pictures were taken in a hurry so sorry if they're not clear.

[bem]

rcflyer,

Great description. I have also the nackstrap holder on my T14MZ loose. So I have to do the same thing you did. I will make a hole also so the bolt can be more easy accessible.

Can I see somewhere in your picture that you have white pots? I will check that also while I have the transmitter case open - so if I have blue pots it is best to change to white (by Futaba Service center I suppose)?

I will change the springs for stick tension also while I have the case opened, it is suppose to be harder springs to change to (but I do not know where to get them).

I'm also looking for longer sticks for my T14MZ but not sure where to get that either (I have ordered some long sticks from Robbe in Germany that will hopefully fit).

/Bo

[rcflyer]

Hi bem, I have arrowed the white pot in the picture. It's easy to spot once you're there. I will post some other pictures of the 14mz internals for your reference. The parts are pretty modular and it is not that difficult to disassemble/reassemble it completely, as long as you make a record all the connectors. There are a total of 18 connectors inside the body and 8 connectors for the top switches. The three types of connectors you will see are molex type, ribbon, and two miniature "coaxial" (the same type as in FASST receivers). The molex connectors can be easily unplugged by pulling them out (try not to pull out by the wires). The ribbon connectors have a black sleeve lock which you need to slide out before the ribbon can be moved out (to reconnect, slide in the ribbon completely before sliding the black sleeve lock in). The gold plated miniature coaxial connector can be disconnected carefully by pulling out with your fingernails (to reconnect, use the tip of your fingernail to push it into the miniature socket until it snaps in). Check and re-check using your connector record that you have all the connectors fitted back when you reassemble. Then of course, check all your switch functions and do a range check.

[bem]

rcflyer,

Thanks a lot for the picture and description! Will for sure help me and hopfully others. I will take many digital pictures and make notes while taking my T14MZ apart and hopefully I will get everything back where it belongs. I might as well change the round Litium battery I see in picture also so I know it is fresh.

regards,
Bo