Hacker A60-L series motor mounting

[Bdegan]

All good info.
This is the A60-MM mount. Depending how far it needs to be extended, adding some cross bracing would be a simple thing. Or adding a wood box extension to the firewall and not extending the metal mount would help to eliminate any side to side force.

[3DHobbyShop]

You can do all of those things.

OTOH, we've been running the Hacker mount as-is for a long time and it's been fine for us in heavy 3D flying and props up to 25" dia.

And, we've run the MadDog mount on the same props with no problem.

[Bdegan]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 3DHobbyShop
	OTOH, we've been running the Hacker mount as-is for a long time and it's been fine for us in heavy 3D flying and props up to 25" dia.

Awesome, Good to hear

[danielgpr]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Mithrandir
	the mad dog mounts may work... but technically, a horribly un-optimized design! How is the torque from the motor reacted??? It is reacted at the base of each standoff.... if the bolts loosen even a tiny bit, or the wood compresses... it get dangerously sloppy..... if the standoffs were replaced with a box... that would be better...well... less bad.... the standoffs around the motor do not efficiently react the torque..... the design may work, but if one of my engineers handed me a drawing of this... he wouldn't be getting a Christmas Bonus!! just sayin'

And gas engines don't vibrate enough and compress the wood firewall? I understand your point however ther are way less harmonics w/ A60 vs. gasser on standoffs, which has been the comon way to mount them for years.
I would be unterested in seeing your engineer designed mount and prototype.
There are always better ways to do things that people come up with so, please share.
All I was getting at was my mount failure and what I feel caused it. Don't use standoffs w/ Hacker mount, Make sure entire mount is flat against firewall or spacer box.
Dan

[Mithrandir]

	Quote: Originally Posted by danielgpr
	And gas engines don't vibrate enough and compress the wood firewall? I understand your point however ther are way less harmonics w/ A60 vs. gasser on standoffs, which has been the comon way to mount them for years. I would be unterested in seeing your engineer designed mount and prototype. There are always better ways to do things that people come up with so, please share. All I was getting at was my mount failure and what I feel caused it. Don't use standoffs w/ Hacker mount, Make sure entire mount is flat against firewall or spacer box. Dan

Yes... but a large 2 bladed prop has a pulsing load profile due to gyroscopic precession... think about when the plane is pitching or yawing aggressively... it causes pretty severe pulses.... (but less bad compared to an IC motor)
Incidentally, that is the reason full size aerobatic pilots use 3 and 4 blades... to split this high load up so the peaks are smaller and happen at different times.....

	Quote: Originally Posted by Bdegan
	All good info. This is the A60-MM mount. Depending how far it needs to be extended, adding some cross bracing would be a simple thing. Or adding a wood box extension to the firewall and not extending the metal mount would help to eliminate any side to side force.

Turn the side plates around so the mounting tabs are on the outside....
making them shorter is better.....

inspect from time to time for cracking at the bends....

[Mr.Pickle]

I have read that tabs should be out and then I have read that tabs should be in. So I am kinda confused as to 'the best' way to do it. But here is how I mounted mine. I used full length standoffs of square alum tubing with wood dowels inside them for crush support. And this way I have contact along the entire surface of the mount. Then I used cut washers to go over the tabs for more contact when mounting them as I have read that some guys were having prob's with the tabs breaking. Whadya guys think, Is this a good setup?? Also I put the SC on fuel tube standoffs for vibration reduction. Also it lifted the SC past the bottom lip of the box for improved airflow.

[Mithrandir]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Mr.Pickle
	I have read that tabs should be out and then I have read that tabs should be in. So I am kinda confused as to 'the best' way to do it. But here is how I mounted mine. I used full length standoffs of square alum tubing with wood dowels inside them for crush support. And this way I have contact along the entire surface of the mount. Then I used cut washers to go over the tabs for more contact when mounting them as I have read that some guys were having prob's with the tabs breaking. Whadya guys think, Is this a good setup?? Also I put the SC on fuel tube standoffs for vibration reduction. Also it lifted the SC past the bottom lip of the box for improved airflow.

The further apart the fasteners, the lower the loads, and the stiffer the installation...

what you did is about as good as you can get with that mount!!

Thumbs up!

but occasionally inspect the bends for cracking!

[3DHobbyShop]

On many AC, especially with bolted firewalls, the tabs have to be turned inside to avoid bolts and stay within the extents of the firewall. We have done this many times before.

Like I've said before, we have excellent luck with them. The Hacker mount also has the advantage of being a nice crushable structure in the event of a nose-down crash. Has saved us some carpentry on more than a few occasions.

All we do to use our Hacker A60-L systems is the following:

1.Do not over-tighten your prop. Pliers are enough, and can help to prevent over-torqueing that will damage the C-clip on the shaft.

2.Balance your props well.

3.Solder the connections between motor and ESC (NO bullet connectors).

4.Use RED loctite on the fasteners that hold the mount together. They have nylock nuts, but the nylock nuts sit very close to the hot motor bell and this renders the nylon ineffective.

5.Use BLUE loctite on the fasteners that screw into the motor itself.

6.Get HELP the first time you program an ESC to work with these big motors. If it's a Hacker/Jeti, call Hacker USA for the setup info. If it's a Castle, use LOW timing, #3 acceleration, and turn off the overcurrent protection. Do not run the ESC out-of-the-box without programming it.

That's prety much it. The A60-18L on 24x12 APC E provides power like a good 50CC engine, is reliable, and flies about 9 minutes on a 12S 5000mah pack. I love 'em. Mine flies like this:

YouTube - White87SHP01

Good luck with yours!

[Mithrandir]

and don't forget the aft shaft support

[Bdegan]

What type of watt meter should I be looking at? I want to be able to take some readings once I have everything put together and set up.
A couple of the other guys locally that do electric offered their meters. but once they realized it was a 12 cell set up and can possibly draw 100 amps, they said their meters won't do it.

[Mithrandir]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Bdegan
	What type of watt meter should I be looking at? I want to be able to take some readings once I have everything put together and set up. A couple of the other guys locally that do electric offered their meters. but once they realized it was a 12 cell set up and can possibly draw 100 amps, they said their meters won't do it.

Call Hacker Brushless... they will tell you what the hot ticket is....

also.... if you are running two 6S packs series t'gether, you can put the meter on one of the packs and check it, then put the meter on the other pack and check it.... you should read the actual current, (100'ish amps???) but the voltage will be 1/2 the total...

Or... get two of the AstroFlight 101 wattmeters and parallel them for a 140 amp capability..... (60 volts I think)

or maybe this..... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMUL4&P=7

I would start with calling Hacker in Arizona

[manta1]

the mad dog mount i think has zero failures reported so far.the hacker mount,which i run on my a60-16l does crack on some people at the bends where it mounts is where it cracked on mine.It did not,come all the way off,i noticed the motor torqing more to the side during a run up,then saw it doing it while hovering.Decided inspection was overdue.lol replaced the one side that was cracked and rolled on.A fellow on rcg has a mod that he uses aluminum angle to reinforce the brackets..looks good.

[Scott Gerber]

A few weeks ago I put my 89" Slick into the ground nose and gear first, bent the shaft on the Hacker but the Mad-Dog came through unscathed. When this world is blown up in nuclear war, there will be a few things that will still be standing, the Mad-Dog mount will be one of them...


Scott

[Bdegan]

OK, got the Castle 110HV today.
Was going to use the Sentilon, but decided on CC. Partly because I am familiar with them, I have had a few of their products in the past. And.....my LHS gave me a deal I couldn't refuse

Those that use the CC HV110, what are your settings ?

[danielgpr]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Bdegan
	OK, got the Castle 110HV today. Was going to use the Sentilon, but decided on CC. Partly because I am familiar with them, I have had a few of their products in the past. And.....my LHS gave me a deal I couldn't refuse Those that use the CC HV110, what are your settings ?

Good choice, has been bullet proof for me on both planes. I set mine up w/ advice from Ben at 3DHobbyshop
brake- off
timing- low
start- soft
current limiting- off
acceleration -3
cutoff voltage -30v, essentually turns this off
pwm freq -13Khz
Dan