New Fancy Foam MX2 !!!

[3D-Seth]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Bunky F. Knuckle
	Where does it say that?!?!?!?! :13a:

Page 7, 1st picture.

	Quote: Originally Posted by Bunky F. Knuckle
	I hear ya Mike.......I've been hollering at Seth and RJ on these stinkin push rods......... HEHEHE!!!!! I heard a rumor that Seth will be giving up airplanes at the end of this year, and taking up powered boats and sail boats!!!

Do you really believe all that facebook crap Chris?

[pitviper51]

one thing i noticed tonight when i test fitted the top fuse section, is that my gluing of the lower fuse has cloged up some of the slots for the top section, so i will have to trim some off the tabs. it shouldnt be a problem tho the top will be getting good gluing also.. and a few extra carbon rods, since i like the full speed blenders hahah I got in some of my best flying on my qq yak today while trying some manuvers I want to use in a foamy freestyle( for fun) I was all jittery 'n 'stuff it was good.. cant wait to have the mx2 flying! i just need to stop freaken talking on fg and build it.. nuff talking im going to bed tomarrow i promise ill work on it haha
mike

[hpapilot]

You really shouldn't need any extra carbon rods on the top fuse... I've never had any issue with it even flexing let alone breaking, it seems that normal glue and the trusses on the vertical stab stablize the top fuse pretty well. But if it makes you feel better, go for it! Hard to make a plane too strong.

I've got the 2 i'm building now framed up on the landing gear, I'll put up some pics when they're done!

RJ

[Bunky F. Knuckle]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 3D-Seth
	Page 7, 1st picture. Do you really believe all that facebook crap Chris?

If it come from Craven, then it is the TRUTH!!!! BWAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!

"Glue all of the control horns in place with CA. All pushrods are made as shown below. Use the .032 wire to make the Z ends. Install the Z ends to the control horns and servo arms. Test fit each carbon rod and trim as needed. Add a small drop of CA to the carbon/wire joint. The 1/16" heat shrink is used to secure the 1mm carbon pushrod to the .032 wire. Make sure the control surface and servo are centered before heating the shrink sleeve. Any adjustments past this point must be made with the sub-trim function of your computer radio."

Not contradicting you, YBA, just saying............

Now, go row your boat!!!

[HuckinChikn]

Your on facebook Seth? Look me up, I signed up a while back to meet up with some old friends, but I'm rarely on there.
I started painting my MX2 tonight! I'm halfway finished... I've
painted the wings and elevators, and I'm drawing the mask for the fuse as we speak. I will have the paint finished before I go to bed tonight, and I'll get the rest of it framed up after work tomorow, and hopefully get
the electronics in as well.
Going with JR s185s on elevator and rudder, 3114 on ailerons, Phoenix 10, a de-cased AR6100, and I'm still deciding on a motor..
I'll probably go with a Hoffman magnetics micro mite, or maybe an e-flite 250... Would a 250 have Enough balls?

[Bunky F. Knuckle]

	Quote: Originally Posted by pitviper51
	one thing i noticed tonight when i test fitted the top fuse section, is that my gluing of the lower fuse has cloged up some of the slots for the top section, so i will have to trim some off the tabs. it shouldnt be a problem tho the top will be getting good gluing also.. and a few extra carbon rods, since i like the full speed blenders hahah I got in some of my best flying on my qq yak today while trying some manuvers I want to use in a foamy freestyle( for fun) I was all jittery 'n 'stuff it was good.. cant wait to have the mx2 flying! i just need to stop freaken talking on fg and build it.. nuff talking im going to bed tomarrow i promise ill work on it haha mike

Just trim the glue, dude!!! HEHEHEH!! Or get a bit of De-Bonder...............

But on a serious note..... When I was building my AJ, I would only TACK the lower part of the fuse in, making sure that it was SQ. to the table. Once I got the upper fuse tacked, I then would run a light bead the entire length upper and lower, then "kick it!"

Ok, we now ban you from this site for the entire time it takes you to finish your MX2

[Bunky F. Knuckle]

What do you guys think about the Turnigy 2204-14??? It's 1400kV. 2S will pull an 8x4 @ 7A. I plan on trying 1 on the AJ, but just curious how it would work on the MX2........... If it works, I will get 3!!!

[3D-Seth]

Mine should be here tomorrow! Woohoo!

3 planes to build before JR Fest. How fun! LOL

[3D-Seth]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Bunky F. Knuckle
	What do you guys think about the Turnigy 2204-14??? It's 1400kV. 2S will pull an 8x4 @ 7A. I plan on trying 1 on the AJ, but just curious how it would work on the MX2........... If it works, I will get 3!!!

The motors for the MX2 and Osiris (that we use) are different. Slightly larger motor is needed for the MX2.

We use a Hacker A10 15S for the Osiris, and a Hacker A10 9L for the MX2.

I know nothing about the Turnigy motors.

[08mait]

Hey RJ and Seth,

what voltage are you guys running to your servos.
Cheers
Steve

[hpapilot]

Steve, we are running normal BEC voltage to the servos. No need to run high voltage to the Futaba servos, they're plenty fast!

Jared, the 250 would fly it okay, but do yourself a favor and put a bigger motor like a Hacker A10-9L on it... the MX2 really benefits a lot from the extra power, especially in rolling maneuvers.

RJ

[hpapilot]

Oh, and Chris, there generally isn't any need to run a bead the full length of the fuse... I just tack it in place at each tab and leave it at that. The bead really just adds weight...

[louu]

	Quote: Originally Posted by HuckinChikn
	Your on facebook Seth? Look me up, I signed up a while back to meet up with some old friends, but I'm rarely on there. I started painting my MX2 tonight! I'm halfway finished... I've painted the wings and elevators, and I'm drawing the mask for the fuse as we speak. I will have the paint finished before I go to bed tonight, and I'll get the rest of it framed up after work tomorow, and hopefully get the electronics in as well. Going with JR s185s on elevator and rudder, 3114 on ailerons, Phoenix 10, a de-cased AR6100, and I'm still deciding on a motor.. I'll probably go with a Hoffman magnetics micro mite, or maybe an e-flite 250... Would a 250 have Enough balls?

please dont waist your money on a 250!!! that is the biggest, tiny POS i ever got. i have one on my osiris and its junk. i just got the a10-15 hacker for it, i havent tried it yet but i know it cant be any worse. just get the a10-9l like they say so you know you wont be dissapointed. besides the hacker is like a whole $3 less expensive.

[Bunky F. Knuckle]

	Quote: Originally Posted by hpapilot
	Oh, and Chris, there generally isn't any need to run a bead the full length of the fuse... I just tack it in place at each tab and leave it at that. The bead really just adds weight...

Understandable........... The MX2 will be lighter than the AJ, overall when I get done with it!!!

[Bunky F. Knuckle]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 3D-Seth
	The motors for the MX2 and Osiris (that we use) are different. Slightly larger motor is needed for the MX2. We use a Hacker A10 15S for the Osiris, and a Hacker A10 9L for the MX2. I know nothing about the Turnigy motors.

Motors are $15 from LightflightRC.............. Be worth a shot in giving 1 a try...........

Trying to get this one done on the lesser expensive side of things....... All I have left is the motor and batteries.......

Yes, I know about HobbyKing........ Dislike the 3 weeks it takes to get things.........