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#1 |
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Brian DeVerter
![]() Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA (near Seattle)
Age: 43
Posts: 207
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Hi FG Users,
I am building my first gasser (35% Pilot-RC Extra 300) and I am interested in what you all think is the best way to fuelproof the motor box. I have heard o f several different ideas from covering everything with a coat of epoxy (which sounds messy and ugly), to covering it all with minwax (really???), to just using automotive quality spray paint. What is the most commen method? Pictures would be fantastic so I could see the kind of results to expect with a particular method. Also, I am installing cans. Do I need to add fuel-proofing all of the way down the can tunnel? Thanks in advance. Brian Last edited by ChopperUp; 10-26-2009 at 01:15 PM. |
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#2 |
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Gettin' Lower!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 30
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Just thin some 30 minute expoxy with alcohol and brush it on. Very easy.
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#3 |
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Fly it....fly it.
![]() Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,530
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correcto, i did mine with epoxy....and a brush, it didnt look messy at all if you do on the right way. Some other applu some alcohol to make it more liquid.
__________________
- OMP Extra 300 100cc - DLE111 - AW Extra 300 50cc - DLE55 - EF Extra 300 EXT 48" - FUTABA 12Z Fly it like it's stolen |
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#4 |
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Lower!
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I use water based Polyurethane anywhere I think there may be the chance of fuel "hittin it."
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#5 |
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Brian DeVerter
![]() Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA (near Seattle)
Age: 43
Posts: 207
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I assume you are talking about regular old isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol)? And I want to do the inside and out of the MB, as well as the front of the fuselage, correct? What about down the tunnel?
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#6 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Brian DeVerter
![]() Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA (near Seattle)
Age: 43
Posts: 207
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That's part of the trouble, I have never had a gasser before so I don't know how much of a mess to expect. Where does all of the fuel come from? The carb or just from the exhaust? |
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#7 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Lower!
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#8 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: High Desert California, USA
Age: 50
Posts: 5,690
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I used some left over asphalt.... THAT looked messy!!!
:O |
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#9 |
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Lower!
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#10 |
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Brian DeVerter
![]() Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA (near Seattle)
Age: 43
Posts: 207
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Again, are we just talking about regular old rubbing alcohol like I have in my medicine cabinet or something different?
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#11 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Gettin' Lower!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 30
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#12 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Lancaster , PA
Age: 53
Posts: 659
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I can't believe nobody suggested this.............................thin CA..just flow it on, and rub it around with your finger (covered with a baggie, of course)......smooooooth as glass
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#13 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tucson
Age: 36
Posts: 5,229
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It should already have been fuel-proofed at the factory. The wood should look kinda shiny already. If not, don't waste your time and all that weight using epoxy/alcohol. Go to walmart or any hardware store and get Varathane water-based polyurethane and some foam brushes. One coat's all it takes, and applying anywhere other than the wood underneath the cowl is not needed, although some people seal up the fuel tank area.
Gas engines are not slimy and icky like glow...
__________________
Gmoney and Smarks are spooners |
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#14 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Brian DeVerter
![]() Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA (near Seattle)
Age: 43
Posts: 207
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#15 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Brian DeVerter
![]() Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA (near Seattle)
Age: 43
Posts: 207
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It was not done at the factory. The wood has no sheen to it what-so-ever. I have to say that this method definately sounds more attractive (meaning easier) that having to spread a bunch of glue around. Although it would seem that using glue would also add strength. Hmmmmm... |
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