40% Carden Extra 300, My first Build ever !

[crash-n-burn]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 66stang
	Good stuff guy's... Awesome build thread, really dig'n it!

Thanks man I got to say building is a lot more enjoyable than I thought it would be.

[Craven]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 66stang
	Good stuff guy's... Awesome build thread, really dig'n it!

Ditto dat!

[a10hog]

	Quote: Originally Posted by crash-n-burn
	Doing the 45's with a tool that I saw in one of Walts threads, it works great. Pin the stringer over the plans line up the tool ( 3/8 ) balsa mark the angles cut

Very nice tool, simple and cheep....

[crash-n-burn]

Okay just want to check something here. At the tail end there is an arrow that saws " build truss to here" pointing to where the last vertical peice in my truss is. Just in front of this is F5, I just wanted to make sure that the truss extends just beyond F5. If you look close you can see that the 45 degree brace in that section butts up against F5 in the plans which seems odd b/c F5 is not to be installed for until a few more steps are complete.

[crash-n-burn]

Here is a better pic showing the plan, it seems F5 goes between those vertical pieces maybe the plan is that way for clarity ?

[ddlstang]

The truss will actually be "shorter" after you set to the motorbox because of the angle( I'm sure there is a geomatric term). They will pull in a little bit, as long as you put F5 square with the trusses when assembling the fuse.

[olddog1956]

doesnt the the verticle stab exstend down between the sides past f5 ties the stab in, my 43 shows the same thing, i cheacked my old carden they show the same so i don't think you will go wrong'

[Fixed Wing]

Dale is right. It's drawn that way to make sure you build the trusses to the correct length. The taper of the fuse when the sides are put together will pull them in to the dimension where F5 is shown on the plans. Just trust that it works. Dennis has certainly done his homework in preparing these plans.

[RICH M]

Dan.... Dale is right your fine as of now just align to plans. The dotted lines on plans are hidden lines for tail block and fin post. That was the part I told you I like to pull the tail together and Align stab tube plate of other fuse side, nice level and straight before setting and gluing up the fuse sides to tail Block and clamp. Then when Fin is installed to fuse later has a fin post and Bevel glued to that tail plate. Not much holds that fin on and I have seen people hold on to that fin and run the motor up. I can see the fin in there hand and plane leaving the area.

[RICH M]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Craven
	Ditto dat!

Hey Dan & Cravin here's how cheap I am. I have the Wife and My cuz trained to go to Sam's and taste every sample they got and if the gilrfriends are with them keep the cups for mixing Epoxy.....
Dan this is one week for the girls. .... LOL

Dan Your doing Awesome.
I knew you would. When I was comming up building they didn't have these threads that you can post something and take the best Idea... or copy a good build thread as Walts and a lot of others out there that build to get these helping tools, like I said you can't buy. That makes the building much simpler even for a new builder as yourself. It was who built good you knew and at the field look at the upper end builders planes at events. ARF's have come a long ways for sure. And the Tag Line, "get you to the field faster" My saying... If you want a nice plane you have to build it.

[crash-n-burn]

First fuse side is close to done. I am waiting on some high strength 3M scotch weld from aerographix once I have that I will epoxy in the wing bolt guides and the hard point for the horizontal stab. In the mean time I have gotten the second fuse half framed up and glued. All I need to do now is cut the 45's. For those that have never built off of plans before it is important to stop and think before you do something. I had to make the 3/8 hard point for the stabilizer from some rectangular stock. A quick way to get it right is to trace the pattern off the plan with a strip of wax paper then transfer it to the wood. Cut outside of the line and then hand sand and dremmel it down until it matches the plans. Seems like a no-brainer but I think that us noob builders need all the tricks we can get. Here are some pics. This fuse half is going light speed compared to the first.

[crash-n-burn]

Second Fuse half comming together. Also a pic down the truss of the first half I just made, perty straight Just need my glue from Aerographix.

This is the epoxy, strong stuff I am using it for the motor box, cowl ring and wing / tail hard points

http://www.aerographix.biz/3m_epoxy.htm

>>> Cool my 800th post !

[KEITH RUSH]

So what did you do with the 45 you needed to install back where F5 goes?

Keith

[crash-n-burn]

I built the truss the as shown in the plans. The last 45 is depicted in the position it will sit once the fuse halves are joined. As other have said the taper of the fuse will cause the end of the truss to move a bit more forward once you join the fuse halves. This is where F5 is depicted on the plan. Thus even though the 45 is slightly "off" as compared to the plans once the fuse halves are joined up the 45 will be in the correct place . Basically I just did it like I saw it in Walts thread.

[Rishelman]

Subscribed. Thanks for doing this. I've been considering a big kit myself. I'd like to ask a question if you don't mind.
I'm wondering how much building experience is needed/recommended for something like a Carden, etc?
I've built three smaller (.40-.60) smaller slimers a few years back from kits. Several ARFs, and most recently two different 50cc ARFs. All turned out great and flew great. I feel like I could pull it off. But if someone like yourself doing your first Carden said "hey, I've been building for years and this is still a stretch", maybe I'd give myself some time before jumping in to the deep end. Just curious. You will not offend, please tell it like it is. Thanks in advance

Rishelman