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Old 11-14-2011, 09:32 AM   #1
flight deck
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Default Dle 30 ignition voltage

This is driving me nuts. My new 30 from day one has not been a very good consistent running engine. Trying to tune it to eliminate the popping at full throttle has been a task. Turning a Zoar 19-8, I eventually got it to peak out at 7000 with good throttle response from idle to top end, no popping. Charged everything over night, today it pops worse than ever, mid range on up. Actually not safe to fly. NGK cm6, .020gap, fully charged ignition battery. Using a Hydra Max 4.8 2000 mah. Going thru the help forums on this engine I have found that apparently the 30 ignition does not like anything close to 6.0volts. That being said, others say that the battery I am using is a perfect match. Is this ignition system so sensitive that it will not perform correctly on a fully charged battery? I also read that it runs best around 5.2-5.4 volts. Does this mean that I will have to use a regulator? Also, if it runs better on a lower voltage, how low can I let it go before it becomes unsafe? Timing is dead on 28 btdc. I have just recently met two other pilots who are experiencing the same head aches as I am. One has been in the hobby many years flying giant scale gas, and he still has popping issues. I am starting to get my doubts on this DLE! I wish DA made one. Thanks for any kind of support. Don
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Old 11-14-2011, 09:41 AM   #2
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Increase the plug gap to .024" - .025", If the 4 cell pack is over 6 volts with a .5 amp load discharge the top off the charge until it falls below 6 volts. The ignition will work fine down to about 4 volts then it it will start missing at high RPM.
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Old 11-14-2011, 09:43 AM   #3
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I run A123's with a voltage reducer from WrongWayRC that keeps the voltage in the correct range for DLEs and all my engines run great. Good luck

**Edit** - just saw Jody posted while I was typing so I edited my post

Last edited by chumley; 11-14-2011 at 09:45 AM. Reason: Previous post
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Old 11-14-2011, 09:48 AM   #4
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Just curious about the Hydramax battery. I had issues with a new one and had to cycle it about 4 times before it started working correctly. You might want to try a different battery.
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:45 AM   #5
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try .040 on you spark plug gap you just might be surprised
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Old 11-14-2011, 12:21 PM   #6
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With all of this popping and only 7000 PRM, where are you at with your needles?? I normally use Jedi's trick of gaping the plugs with an X-acto blade and seems to work perfectly. Since your timing is right on, as you stated, I would guess funky needle settings from your description.
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Old 11-14-2011, 04:37 PM   #7
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Tried it this afternoon. Ignition voltage is 5.4. Two days ago it ran perfect up to a max static of 7000. As I said earlier, yesterday it ran horrible. The only change was to charge the 4.8 Hydra Max. Now with the lower voltage, still the same popping issue. Hi needle is 1.6,low is 1.1 . Next, I re-gapped from .018 to .024. Now the engine runs fantastic from idle to 6000 with no hesitation or popping of any kind . But now 6000 is the peak rpm! Any throttle advancement beyond 6000 and the engine will die off instantly. Unless I retard the throttle immediately, it quits. Before, any adjustment of the hi end would be very small , maybe a screw driver thickness --to get a very noticeable rpm change . In its present condition, up to a 1/4 turn either way does nothing. I guess probably closer to 1/2 or greater to see a rpm change, but still 6000 is the max. I guess I will try swapping to a different brand of ignition tomorrow, and recheck the timing. Thanks once again, because this is so frustrating. Don
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Old 11-14-2011, 06:37 PM   #8
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Funny my DLE 30 has been doing thte same thing since day 1. I have tried all the things you have and Im running a 7.4 Lipo regulated to 5v.
Hope you find the issue because I am so frustrated at the engine I put the plane up until I find a fix.
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Old 11-14-2011, 06:47 PM   #9
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The best way to fix your problem is to go into the workshop and find BFH... BIG FECK'N HAMMER.... Then put the ignition module on the bench and wack the living crap out of it!!!!!!! This seems to be the best solution I have found, then buy a new one! I run a powerbox spark switch now that regulates the voltage to 5.9 v and this has fixed all my problems with Chinese ignition units.
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Old 11-15-2011, 07:14 AM   #10
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Dumb question but have you smashed the stock plug to smitherines and replaced it with an NGK?
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Old 11-15-2011, 09:34 AM   #11
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When you say " buy a new one", do you mean another DLE ignition unit or a different brand. What other brands would be compatible to this engine an cm-6 spark plug. Thanks ,I am on my last straw with this engine. Don
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Old 11-15-2011, 09:36 AM   #12
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YES, REPLACE THE PLUG WAS MY FIRST MOVEMENT. THANKS FOR ANY INPUT, I AM OPEN TO ANY HELP.
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:49 AM   #13
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Yes I replace the plug with a NGK CM6 before I even start the engine, not saying the plug that comes with the dle is no good but you can trust NGK... We have used the rexel ignition units as well which I believe are the same as the DLE with good success.
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Old 11-15-2011, 11:03 AM   #14
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Quote: Originally Posted by flight deck
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When you say " buy a new one", do you mean another DLE ignition unit or a different brand. What other brands would be compatible to this engine an cm-6 spark plug. Thanks ,I am on my last straw with this engine. Don
Hi Don I know the feeling well.. You can replace the DLE ignition unit with a rexel unit. They work well but are still fussy on voltage input so make sure you regulate the voltage input to 5v to 5.9v.. We buy replacement ignition units from SDS hobbies in china.
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Old 11-15-2011, 02:20 PM   #15
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OK guys , here is the ticket. Carried the ac to a recently new friend of mine who has helped me a bunch in this hobby. Always hated to bother him because he stays so active maintaining engines for 3 different clubs. I tried never to ask him anything that would take up much time. Just as all of you have been so helpful, he heard I was having troubles, and called me. I told him everything that had been passed on to me trouble-shooting and he said "Yep, all of them could cause the popping" I also said that I had done everything but increasing the gap to .040, Which Ralph had suggested. So he said, " By all means, if Ralph said .040 lets go to .040. After cranking , and engine brought up to operating temps. he advanced the throttle-no popping of any kind, but as before, 6000 was the max. Told me immediately, it is in the carb. Pushed the throttle to where it started to die off retarded it just slightly and adjusted the low needle valve. RPM's went to 6500, then he went to the high and peaked it out at 7000. The engine now is running flawless. Also, the high end is at 1.8,low is 1.4 . His work shop almost blew me away. He probably has 25 big gassers from DA's to 3w's, and all in between torn down in various stages of repair, laying out on the work benches . His name is Garland Sykes of Winnabow, NC. Said he just loved to tinker on engines and help people. He spoke very highly of Ralph C. I hope this helps some of you who have had the same issues. Flight-Deck
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