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Old 02-23-2012, 04:23 PM   #31
a1pcfixer
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You miss the point though. You shouldn't have had this issue at all in the first place.

You've now had several broken engine parts, gotten pissed off at DLA, and lost your warm fuzzy feeling you once had about those engines. All the while that guy next to ya is happily flying along, looking over shaking his head.

What price do we put on NOT experiencing similar issues?
What's our time worth, just to save a buck up front, but pay for such later on?

Like I said first off, it's unfortunate you had this happen, but......caveat emptor!
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:29 PM   #32
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atleast its not in flying season and I have had a buddy have crap go wrong with his dle engiens and have to send them in also.. I will continue to more than likely buy a dla also and its beccause they run great I had a da 50 and that thing wouldnt run for **** never could get the gurgle out of the midrange and it was always dieing.... so I will not ever own another DA....I am in the need for a 60 for my extreme flight i Might go ahead and get one of Miltons JC Evo 60 from Extreme Power Rc I have heard good things about them and Milton knows his stuff
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:36 PM   #33
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This issue has been long known about. If you buy a second engine to overcome the issues being experienced on your first one, that makes it an expensive "Cheap" engine and should that second one also have the known problems frmo that brand raise their heads it becomes a ridiculously expensive "Cheap" engine. I found this out the hard way too and now have realised that spending a little more saves me a lot of money in the long run.

Now back to the original topic.

" a couple of thousandants " will not make the difference between the lugs breaking or not.

You either have a brand of engine with weak lugs or you have an installation problem. Both are fatal to the lugs.

The plate idea is a good suggestion. It doesn't need to be made from aluminium, it can be made from 1/4" or 3/8" ply. Use a 2 1/2" or 3" holesaw to cut he hole in the middle for the carb.

The plate can be made wider than the engine to get the standoffs away from the carb linkages etc.

Make new standoffs with some 3/4" square hardwood. Clamp them together and sand them all to the same length (I use a drop of thin CA on each one to hold them while this is done). Drill them through and you should not have any more problems. It is of a similar (or less) overall weight to the 4 standoffs.

In the photo below, the 4 standoffs, the wood plate and the 7 bolts, nuts etc weighed exactly the same as the 3 Auluminium standoffs and all bolts I would have needed to do the same thing. It was in fact 20 grams (28 grams = 1 oz) lighter than if I used 4 aluminium standoffs (as most engines would use).
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Last edited by aussiesteve; 02-23-2012 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:52 PM   #34
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so will this method work on 50cc i guess
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Old 02-23-2012, 05:03 PM   #35
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All of my engines are mounted this way - from 28cc to 420 cc. Some of them only have "standoffs" about 1/16" or 1/8" to adjust the engine thrust lines as the firewall is the right distance to begin with.

So yes - it works very well on 50cc also.

I also forgot to add.
If you need to adjust thrust angles etc. Place the spacers between the standoff and the plate - not between the engine and the plate. For spacers for this purpose, I use a 7/8" holesaw and cut "washers" out of scraps of ply. On many common 50cc enignes, a 1/16 spacer is close to 1 degree of thrust change.
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:37 PM   #36
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Quote: Originally Posted by Mithrandir
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the standoffs complicate things.... they are not torsionally stiff... so they fatigue the mounting tabs...

I would suggest you implement a stiffer mount....

Perhaps a plate that attaches to the motor and then the standoffs mounted to the plate....

@ BB, try to use a "bigger foot print" mounting system,,, like in that pic above from aussiesteve,,, to evenly disperse the mechanical forces acting on that engine backplate mount. Its obvious that there's way to much pressure being put on those little mount bolt hole areas thats causing your engine backplate mount to fail.

Also make sure your prop is balanced properly. A prop balancing technique like this works about the best,,,

http://www.flyinggiants.com/gallery/...hp?photo=56319
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Last edited by Bill Vargas; 02-23-2012 at 10:02 PM.
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:20 PM   #37
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Just to put your mind at rest as to whether or not this works.

1st photo is a BME 116 mounted the same way but the only "Standoffs" are a couple of 1/6" ply Spacers to do the final thrust line adjustments (after test flying). you may not be able to make out the 50cc in the background that also has the same method.

2nd photo is a 275cc, a 170cc and a 40cc using the identical methods. I made a ply "Donut" to act as a standoff for the 40cc - it was significantly lighter than a beam mount or a set of standoffs. The rear mounting "cup" on that is an accessory from that manufacturer so the wood donut is purely a standoof to get the prop into the right place but it has a couple of the 1/16" spacers behind it to get the thrust angle to where I wanted it.

So yes - the system will easily work for a 50cc
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:38 PM   #38
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I am just wondering but would it help any if I made a back Plate out of alunimium and tied all the stand offs together and then mounted the motor by the lugs would this help any
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:47 PM   #39
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also was just wondering would anything like this help inbetween the standoff and the motor kind of like they do on trucks on the cab mounts

Like these
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CJQBEPICMAQ
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Old 02-24-2012, 12:04 AM   #40
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Quote: Originally Posted by bbrown2828
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I am just wondering but would it help any if I made a back Plate out of alunimium and tied all the stand offs together and then mounted the motor by the lugs would this help any
Yes as long as the face presented to the engine lugs is even.

The aim is to give the engine an even mounting pressure on each lug. Long standoffs will twist and cause the pressure on the lugs to become uneven.

The best material to make the plate out of is aluminium but many don't have sheets of that available or the tools to work with it. If you can make it out of "ali" it is best.

You can also use VERY short but accurate standoffs between the plate and the engine (No longer than about 3/8" or perhaps 1/2" if interference with the cylinder cooling fins is an issue.
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Old 02-24-2012, 12:06 AM   #41
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Quote: Originally Posted by bbrown2828
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also was just wondering would anything like this help inbetween the standoff and the motor kind of like they do on trucks on the cab mounts

Like these
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CJQBEPICMAQ
I am not a fan of those mounts on our engines. They are usually a simple tension mount on the rubber and can break free. It is better to use a Rubber washer between the mount and the engine so the rubber is under compression.
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:21 AM   #42
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This is DLA manufacturer.

About Blake’s issue, today we had solved it amicably, our dealer will keep in touch with him.
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:24 AM   #43
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If there are any quality problems about DLA engine, please don’t worry, first please contact our dealer who sold the engine to you, they can provide good after-service. If you can’t get good service from our dealer, then you can contact us directly.

We appreciate support of our dealers and users on DLA
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Old 02-24-2012, 05:13 AM   #44
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Quote: Originally Posted by bbrown2828
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also was just wondering would anything like this help inbetween the standoff and the motor kind of like they do on trucks on the cab mounts

Like these
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CJQBEPICMAQ
Toni Clark hydro mount.

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Old 02-24-2012, 05:39 AM   #45
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how much time did you have on the engine before the lugs broke.
i am on my secound year of flying a dla56 and so far no problems.
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