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#1 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: dallas,Ga.
Posts: 1,013
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Right now I am concentrating on getting the wings and stabs completley done and then move onto finishing the fuse, which is pretty much done besides final sanding. Then I will progress onto mounting the wheelpants and then proceede into painting the cowl, pants and canopy/hatch.
Last edited by xtra330; 09-18-2007 at 08:55 PM. |
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#2 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: dallas,Ga.
Posts: 1,013
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I will begin posting pics of the progress that I make, but first , I am going to bed. Its been a long day (just got home from work). I will update tomorrow..actually in a few more hours
Joe |
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#3 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: New Iberia, LA
Age: 37
Posts: 1,249
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Good luck Joe! The 300 is a great model. You will love it. Let me know if there is any info you will need from my experiences.
Ryan |
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#4 |
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Uber Contributer
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: las vegas nv
Age: 75
Posts: 180
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Extra330, I built one for a youngman here in Las Vegas,so I kinda know what is on the inside. You will find that Aerotech building is the best around,good wood,very good laser parts. The best part was watching it fly! After a few trim passes,it was locked in. After a few minuets he did some mild 3D stuff, I watched him do the advanced sequence and it was GREAT! After he landed he said it was the best aircraft he ever flew,and bett er than another 42% extra that he has. So you are in for a great flying aircraft,so ENJOY
__________________
sukhoi, too old to huck. What do I need a 3D plane for? I am only a 1D flyer |
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#5 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: dallas,Ga.
Posts: 1,013
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Thanks for the kind words guys. I didnt get a whole lot accomplished today due to having running erands in the morning and now , I am off to work. When I get home tonight , I will finish off the stabs and post some pics from the begining to now. If any body would like to share there expieriences with the plane (set up, CG, choices of equipment) please feel free.
Joe Last edited by xtra330; 08-08-2007 at 06:29 PM. |
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#6 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: canada
Age: 41
Posts: 565
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I have the mid wing extra and I have a 3w 157 that kicks a%# in it. I also have all jr servos 8611's 2 per elevator half, a power box professional and fromeco lithiums. This thing flies SWEEEET!!!!! with plenty of power to spare.
ENJOY THE EXTRA I KNOW YOU WILL!!!! |
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#7 |
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If you can't HUCK it BLING IT!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Just Moved.......Hampton VA
Age: 37
Posts: 9,269
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Can't wait to see your finished version vs. mine.
__________________
Offical Member of Team Caribou Lou "Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But the U.S. ARMED FORCES don't have that problem." ...Ronald Reagan |
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#8 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: dallas,Ga.
Posts: 1,013
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here are a couple of shots that I was to load the other day, but finally got a chance.
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#9 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: dallas,Ga.
Posts: 1,013
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here are some of the design drawn out onto the wing. The way I got the curves is by taking Blue Painters tape and "eyeballing" the scheme and just lay it out. Stand back and re adjust as necesarry. Once I got the first main line drawn, I take a pen and draw along the edge of the tape, remove the tape and procede with the rest of the scheme.
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#10 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: dallas,Ga.
Posts: 1,013
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My battery just died on the camera, so I cant load the finished product...guess you guys will have to wait till tomorrow
![]() I forgot to mention that once I get my scheme all drawn out, I take artist paper and trace the scheme onto the paper, I then take 3m spray adhesive and paste it to heavy duty cardboard. After that, I take my xacto knife and "free" hand the curves. Take loose and do a light sanding on the cardboard template to make a nice smooth raduis all around. For the straight invasion lines on the bottom and top of the wings, I just take measurements and use a straight edge on the Monokote. I try to do all of the prep work (cutting out Monokote) before I do any covering, makes the process go alot faster, when you have all your colors cut and ready to go. Last edited by xtra330; 09-01-2006 at 11:59 PM. |
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#11 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Laurel, MD, USA
Posts: 739
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Joe,
First, you are killing me with the "battery died, you'll have to wait til tommorrow...." Plug that baby into the way and download those pics! Second, I'd like to hear how the Monokote goes on for you. I have used Ultracote for the past 10 years or so but I recently used Monokote to recover the wings on a plane I picked up from Dan Baker. I forgot how great Monokote looks. Having said that, there are many reports that Monokote has changed and guys are having lots of trouble with it- looks like there is sand underneath the covering when done. Hope yours works OK. I wouldn't mind trying Monokote again on my next plane but I am apprehensive at this point. Dave |
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#12 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: dallas,Ga.
Posts: 1,013
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Hey Dave , whats up!
Well, I have heard all the horror stories about Monokote...but knock on wood, I ahvent expierienced none of that. I even bought new rolls of covering for this job, and still it goes down like glass. I think alot of it is is in the prep work. I took the parts to be sanded and went to town w/ 220. Then went over again with 400, and a final sand with 600...thats it! I tack rag the parts until there is no more dust visible, then I vacuum the parts with a soft brush, then one more quick tack rag. Applying the Monokote...the ONLY way it has worked for me and given me positive results is by using an iron ONLY. Set the iron at 200 to 210. Work from the center out on your project moving the iron along with the grain of the balsa then work forward or back only the width of the iron. Only progress until there is no more bubbles or shrinking taking place. I also pull gently on the covering and up from the surface at a slight angle, allowing the Monkote to shrink lightly and get warm before permanetly attaching it to the part. With that being said...the finished stabs. |
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#13 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Age: 46
Posts: 964
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Hello,
Looking very cool Joe. Next time you want complex things cut I can do it on the laser. I have cut templates to just monokote or ultracote on the laser to make it eaiser. Later John |
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#14 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: dallas,Ga.
Posts: 1,013
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lets try these...
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#15 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: dallas,Ga.
Posts: 1,013
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camera is not doing justice, but here is a few more...
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