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#1 |
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IMAC wannabe!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Griffith, NSW, Australia
Age: 31
Posts: 3,374
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There have been a couple of build threads posted on the comp-arf extra 260 recently but not much about the 3.1 super extra. So I will try and document the building of my Futaba scheme 3.1 metre.
This will be my first full build of a comp-arf. So any constructive input along the way will be appreciated as my building skills are best described as average. The planned fit out is as follows. 3W 157cs with 3W cannisters 9 Hitec 5955 digitals JR R10DS rx Powerbox Competition 40/24 2 fromeco 4800's for rx and 1 2400 for ignition SWB self adjust rudder tray SWB alloy arms used throughout with uprated hardware. RC Blimp titanium tailwheel.
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#2 |
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IMAC wannabe!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Griffith, NSW, Australia
Age: 31
Posts: 3,374
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Some shots of how it looks straight outta the box.
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#3 |
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IMAC wannabe!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Griffith, NSW, Australia
Age: 31
Posts: 3,374
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Some shots of the gear plate, and carbon layups.
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#4 |
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IMAC wannabe!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Griffith, NSW, Australia
Age: 31
Posts: 3,374
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First step was to get it on its wheels, the RC blimp tailwheel is a piece of cake to install. For the main gear I just followed the given dimension to the letter and drilled the legs, it turned out to fit fine. The wheels are dubro, I used the supplied bolts as axles meaning I had to drill holes in the wheel pants.
I will put some sort of bling sticker over these holes when finished.
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#5 |
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IMAC wannabe!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Griffith, NSW, Australia
Age: 31
Posts: 3,374
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I modified the stabs with some small flanged bearings. 4 mm ID 7mm OD and I think 2 mm high, but dont quote me on that.......
There are 5 phenolic hinge plates in the stabs. I chose to open out the end plates and the middle one for the bearings. I used a step drill bit turned by hand (Thanks for the tip TMAC) to keep the holes centered. The 4mm supplied tube is not a good fit through the bearings, but 5/32" K&S tube is a good snug fit (thanks RCDART) Also note the slots on the elevator need to be widened very slightly with a file or similar to fit the flange of the bearing.
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Look out Ulimited in 2011!!!
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#6 |
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IMAC wannabe!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Griffith, NSW, Australia
Age: 31
Posts: 3,374
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I spent all day today grapling with the dreaded canopy. I treid the comp-arf way with tape handles to pull it snug against the frame. However this is a very big and long canopy, it just didnt want to fit snugly into the frame.
In frustration I ended up turning the frame upside down and hung it from the ceiling, then I dropped the canopy in, the fit was much better, but I still wouldnt describe it as perfect, grrrrrr. After a few swear words I finally have it all tacked in with CA, but of course managed to get glue on the canopy in a few places. Tomorrow I will epoxy it down firmly. Anyone got any tips on removing spots of CA? I have a CA remover but I fear its on there for good. I had to take a shot of it next to my 2.6 Yak for a size comparison. SHe is one big bird!
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![]() Last edited by notorious_benny; 10-16-2006 at 08:55 AM. |
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#7 |
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ProBro #5
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bartlett, TN
Age: 47
Posts: 100
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Man that thing is big...
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#8 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Portland Oregon
Age: 52
Posts: 1,502
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One of the better ways to do the canopy is to seal up the fuse with tape and plastic and blow air in with a vaccuum in revererse equal pressure all the way around and the canopy is screwed in place conforming to shape of the fuse. Comp -Arf should tell folks about this- IMHO. I have spent alot of time doing it the tape it hold up way - it is very difficult to get a good fit without distorting the canopy that way.
Ronster |
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#9 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: High Desert California, USA
Age: 50
Posts: 5,692
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I feel your pain on the canopy...
But there is a reward at the end... this vid has been Pimped around for a while... but at least that Shuler guy does pretty good in it!!! http://www.composite-arf-world.com/SX_Stroup_Shuler.wmv |
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#10 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
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When I had my 2.3, thats the way I did it, I actually have stuffed it with newspaper also and used that to push equally out all sides..
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#11 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: High Desert California, USA
Age: 50
Posts: 5,692
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I have heard of people wet sanding their canopy with 1000 wet'n'dry and then putting a coat of clear paint over it....
But the cost of a replacement canopy is not very much... I got 3 replacemnts for me and a couple friends... like $30.00 (US Dollars) each with shipping I seem to recall..... http://www.geocities.com/Colosseum/Loge/1200/stuart.wav |
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#12 |
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River Rat 4 Life
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lake Havasu City
Posts: 235
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Here is my build vid I did on the very first Futaba Scheme Super Xtra
Great flying plane! http://www.composite-arf-world.com/c...build-Vid2.wmv |
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#13 | |||||||||||||||
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: High Desert California, USA
Age: 50
Posts: 5,692
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I still have my FUTABA Scheme... and no *****... it IS THE BEST FLYING EXTRA I EVER FLEW!!!!!! At our little Rabbit Bash a week ago.. it was clearly the Lightest flying plane there.... Your Fantasy 100cc plane has yet another owner!!! One of the local guys here traded a completed 50cc Yak and a few $$$$$ for the Fantasy.... That fantasy scheme is SOOOOO Bad ASS... that scheme would even look good on my ex-wife!!!! But.. I can see the FUTABA Scheme better..... I wish the "FUTABA" was a house scheme for the 260... I am thinkin there might be one of those in my future!!! Sorry.. didn't mean to Hijack the thread!!! With a DA and standard Muffs.... my plane was a bit tail heavy... The ign battery should go on the engine dome, and keep'r light in the aft.. light tail wheel (If possible... RCBlimp???) And maybe put the other batteries forward (Away from ign module) if possible as well.... There is just a tiny bit of flex in the gear... so clearance the fuselage maybe 1.5 cm all the way around where the strut exits the side..... Dave Sullivan said my plane weighed 39 pounds when he finished it (No Fuel) and it sure flies lightly... You might want to put a grounding strap from the cannisters to the engine, as well as ground the airframe to the engine... (Might affect Rx performance, but external antenna is better anyway) Keep us up on the progress Benny!!!! |
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#14 |
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IMAC wannabe!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Griffith, NSW, Australia
Age: 31
Posts: 3,374
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Thanks for the vids guys. I have had both of them saved on the computer for a while now. The truth is this airframe has been sitting in my garage for a couple of months now waiting for money to be thrown at it .
Thanks for the wetndry idea mith. I might try that, I have also heard of people using a polishing compound to smooth up the canopy.....? Are you sure its a good idea to ground the engine to the airframe? I havnt heard of this anywhere before. Darcy, I have checked out your build threads previously on RCU, you do a great job, I hope I can do a similar job myself.
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#15 |
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Mother Hucker +
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Benny, lookin good man. Try Brasso on the canopy, it works to take out mild scratches so may work on the CA, it takes a bit of rubbin but works real well.
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