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Old 11-26-2006, 02:56 AM   #106
FlyinTiger
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Default Re: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow

I finally got the video edited and uploaded to the video hosting section of this website! Flying Giants is great for sharing media...

Go here to view the maiden flight, or just to hear the DA-50 on a canister:

http://www.flyinggiants.com/gallery/...00&ppuser=8217

Thanks for looking! Please let me know if you find any problems playing the video.
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Last edited by FlyinTiger; 11-28-2006 at 10:57 PM. Reason: Added the video tag...VIDEO!
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Old 11-27-2006, 04:06 AM   #107
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Default Re: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow

great looking bird and nice flying. but get a leather glove or something to start the mortor with if that thing pops back you'll wish you had one.
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Old 11-28-2006, 10:56 PM   #108
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Default Re: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow

Fudman:

Thanks for the tip, but here's three reasons why I DON'T wear a glove:

1. Gloves make props slippery, giving them a tendancy to "pop back." You would have to wear a pretty thick, padded glove to help any when that prop whacks your hand anyway...so a leather work glove won't do anything but keep you from getting a splinter.

2. If I set my prop so it hits compression at the 1 and 7 o'clock position, my hand follows through as it goes through the compression stroke and physically can't "pop back."

3. From 50cc to 150cc, I haven't seen anyone in the competition circuit wearing a glove and they fly a whole lot more than I do, so it must be safe to "bare hand it."

If wearing a glove helps you, by all means, keep wearing it. For those using a spring starter, I would wear a really thick padded glove, those things are dangerous!

Keep the right side up when you touch down...
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Old 11-29-2006, 05:54 AM   #109
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Default Re: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow

Quote: Originally Posted by FlyinTiger
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Fudman:

Thanks for the tip, but here's three reasons why I DON'T wear a glove:

1. Gloves make props slippery, giving them a tendancy to "pop back." You would have to wear a pretty thick, padded glove to help any when that prop whacks your hand anyway...so a leather work glove won't do anything but keep you from getting a splinter.

2. If I set my prop so it hits compression at the 1 and 7 o'clock position, my hand follows through as it goes through the compression stroke and physically can't "pop back."

3. From 50cc to 150cc, I haven't seen anyone in the competition circuit wearing a glove and they fly a whole lot more than I do, so it must be safe to "bare hand it."

If wearing a glove helps you, by all means, keep wearing it. For those using a spring starter, I would wear a really thick padded glove, those things are dangerous!

Keep the right side up when you touch down...
I use a glass glove with a spring starter. It has a respectable thickness of rubber coating and is used for gripping. Allot of people treat driving as a secondary activity - which tho popular and common, still isn't too smart.
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Old 11-30-2006, 04:28 AM   #110
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Default Re: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow

I agree, a thick padded glove when using a spring starter is a good idea. I also agree that driving well takes more thought and patience than most people are willing to put forth.

Thanks for the pertinent advice!
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Last edited by FlyinTiger; 11-30-2006 at 04:29 AM. Reason: grammar
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Old 12-04-2006, 03:42 AM   #111
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Default Re: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow

It was a bit of a challenge to get my CG correct. In the maiden video the CG was dangerously aft of where it should have been. I was very surprised having balanced the plane at the recommended 3-1/2" aft of the leading edge at the WINGTIPS. Our fingers must have been pushing on it somehow to make it come out falsely within limits. Even with an extra 4 oz. in the canister muffler setup, it ended up flying tailheavy, as you saw in the video! With several "beeps" of down trim on the elevator the speed sensitive trim issue was definitely not a good thing. Though easy to fly and gentle to land, I didn't want to leave the aircraft this way, it would have been a nightmare to trim out in other areas.

To correct this issue:

1. I put the spinner on. I did two more five minute flights, tightening the prop bolts before going back up, the wood was getting crushed a bit and the bolts really started feeling tight. The lightweight fiberglass spinner cone will still add an ounce or two to the forward-most point.

2. Switched to a Carbon Fiber stab tube. The CF tube weighs half as much as the aluminum tube. Removing weight way back at the tail requires that I remove less weight to correct an aft CG condition.

3. I moved the batteries up to formers on either side of the fuel tank. Although only a small change, from just behind the wing tube on the radio tray to six inches forward of the wing tube, it was something.

Now the aircraft maintains a 45 degree upline while inverted. I normally like to see the nose drop slightly, but I'm going to trim the plane with the CG here and see how it works out. I don't want to move anything else if I can help it and the batteries don't have anymore wire left to move them further forward, I don't want to use an extension on a battery either.

Regretably, I forgot to take the plane and lift it by the wingtips to see what I get for a CG point there. Hopefully it was just faulty fingers and the CG works out where it was designed to. We'll see.
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Old 12-04-2006, 03:54 AM   #112
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Default Re: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow

Wow! We need to get another flying day like Saturday! Even with family in town I was able to sneek out to the field for a couple of hours to tune and trim the New Extra 300. Once the CG was acceptable these were the improvements in flying characteristics immediately apparent over the former 28% LX version:

1. Harriers are rock solid. I only experienced wing rock when I was turning cross wind and wasn't on the aileron correction, into or downwind required NO AILERON correction. Inverted was as locked in as upright. Steering with rudder and partial 3D elevator this new extra will be the plane that allows me to comfortably get "down on the deck" within the first few gallons of gasoline! This plane instills confidence not unlike a foamy.

2. Ailerons are about TWICE as effective as the LX. The tapered ailerons give a very desireable amount of control while in slow speed - post stall - flight. While hovering I can do an anti-torque roll with only half deflection of 3D rate ailerons.

3. High alpha knife edge is more easily controlled with the redesigned tail group. This aircraft is less scale with the horizontal stablilizer moved forward but there is intuitive and immediately inherent control of post stall flight, even while flying in the sensitive high-alpha knife edge flight envelope.

4. Waterfalls and Knife Edge Spins are EXTREMELY tight! Wow is all I can say about how tight the spins are while performing these manuevers. With the CG at the point that makes the plane maintain a 45 degree upline, the tumbling characteristics are still phenomenal. Using full 3D elevator and rudder with only a little aileron required, the knife edge spin was a blur. Way more impressive than the LX. Waterfalls flip the plane around its CG like a rag doll. If I do them starting into or downwind I can just bang the elevator over to full throw and watch it flip, almost in place.

5. Coupling Before ANY trimming, other than CG and one "beep" of down elevator, the plane does have some coupling that will have to be evaluated and corrected during the dynamic flight trimming process. Because of the tiny amount of down elevator that has to be added to make this plane fly level an aggrevated pull to the belly during knife edge flight is to be expected.

a. In flat turns there is a noticeable down pitching force, as well as a slight same direction roll tendency.
b. Downlines require a breath of down elevator to keep them straight down.
c. Dynamic lateral balancing has checked out as "balanced." Flying straight down at idle for a few seconds, then pulling out at a fairly aggressive rate - no aileron input - showed
neither wing dropping at all
d. On more than half throttle up-lines right rudder was required to keep the plane flying straight up. I am going to leave the thrust where it is and use a throttle-to-rudder mix when I
get to that step in the trimming sequence.
e. Flying inverted requires a just little down elevator to keep it level, confirming the CG is in a comfortable spot.
f. Snaps are a little sluggish, but that is to be expected with the more rounded leading edge which makes this plane excell in 3D flight and as a first gasser!
g. Aileron differential will be necessary, but without following the trimming sequence it is difficult to say how much will be required.

Let's get started!
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Old 12-12-2006, 04:14 AM   #113
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Default Re: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow

Me: 0 CA Rain: 1

No flyin' with all the rain! Maybe it will clear out at the end of the week? Anyway, I keep reliving the flights through pictures!
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Old 01-12-2007, 09:26 PM   #114
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Default Re: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow

I got in some great flying and we're quite close to posting another video. This is so much fun!

Stay tuned
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Old 01-18-2007, 03:48 PM   #115
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Default Re: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow

Okay, finally the newest video is out of the editing shop and posted here on Flying Giants for all to see.

This video was purposely made to show the OUTSTANDING flying characteristics of the NEW Wild Hare 84" Extra 300, not to showcase my flying skills...maneuvers were chosen to show these main on target points:

1. TIGHT waterfalls and knife edge spins
2. Super stable harrier flight
3. Excellent power off glide that makes dead stick landings a BREEZE (we did one on purpose)
4. Pleasant sound of the MTW-75 canister
5. Rediculously slow descent in a flat spin with the power cracked off of idle
6. Performance with the newly released Wild Hare 22x8 prop
7. Why this will be your favorite 50cc plane of all time!

http://www.flyinggiants.com/gallery/...to=19501&cat=1

Click the above link to check out the 20 MB video, click the link below to see the smaller 6 MB version.

http://www.flyinggiants.com/gallery/...to=19499&cat=1

Enjoy! Your comments and suggestions are appreciated.
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Old 01-18-2007, 05:28 PM   #116
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Default Re: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow

Nice vid. I've liked this plane since it was announced, wish I had waited a bit longer for it instead of being impatient, lol.
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Old 01-30-2007, 09:28 PM   #117
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Default Re: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow

Quote: Originally Posted by ChrisR
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Nice vid. I've liked this plane since it was announced, wish I had waited a bit longer for it instead of being impatient, lol.

I got the thumbs up on this NEW 84" Extra from a local professional builder. He flies mostly 40% and up, but he builds planes of all sizes for people on the West Coast. He said it was a nicely built plane and was very impressed with the blurring knife edge spins and waterfalls. He expected it to wing rock in harrier flight and be instable in high alpha maneuvers, not so with this 50cc plane!

Another impressed person with Tom's new redesigned Extra!

Look for more of these at YOUR local field...they are an outstanding plane for someone looking to step up to their first gasser, or for a pro pilot looking for something they can fit in the pickup bed.
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Old 01-30-2007, 09:39 PM   #118
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Default Re: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow

I really like the red white and blue scheme!!!
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Old 01-31-2007, 12:50 PM   #119
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Default Re: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow

Quote: Originally Posted by Yak 54
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I really like the red white and blue scheme!!!
I am glad Tom offers a variety of colors to choose from. Call him up and see if he has any in stock! If not he can give you a shipping date for the new batch.
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Old 02-01-2007, 10:40 PM   #120
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Default Re: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow

Hi,

Wonder if you could answer a question on mounting the cowl. Did you use the lower T nuts when mounting the cowl or have you only used the two upper T nuts and the lower ply retainers.

Thanks Jim
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