Will these baffles work?

[Jaybird]

I tried fitting some baffles in my Edge, and realized that I cut all air off from the front bearing housing and crankcase. Check at the pics and see if yall think it will be OK.

[Biff]

Dude, could you post some views of what is on the front of the cowl where the cylinder is? That's the area needing it most. If you have enough air coming in and more importantly going out, you should be okay. The crank doesn't need much as long as you're cooling the cylinder properly.

I assume you fly in Florida too. Pretty warmish down there in the summer!

[Jaybird]

Here ya go. Yesterday It bogged and began the dreaded "full throttle tailslide". I pushed it over and landed and it felt a little warmer than it should. I puchased a infared(sp?) thermometer this morning so I can keep a check on it. I tried to force all the air coming in the cowl down and around the jug.
Didnt realize my cowl cutouts looked so bad!
Thanks,
Brian

[tony-amps]

dude take those baffles out... Baffles are more for two cyl. engines most of the time. from the position of your motor the head get a direct blast of air while flying. you need to get more air into the cowl so remove the balsa and open it up. you need air circulating around the crankcase and muffler also.

Tony

[Jaybird]

It was getting hot before I put the baffles in. Most of my gas gets burnt in a harrier and I get a kick out of marathon hovering.
Brian

[Kevin Y]

yeah I think I would take them out! Baffles are more suited for a twin like a DA 100 or 150 were the cylinder head is not exposed to outside air.

[Jaybird]

Thats great. Before I spent all morning doing this, everyone was saying I needed baffles.***?
Brian

[dannny745]

if your running hot,,your to leanor you need the baffles..
i would put themat 45degress so itsnot like hitting as wall.cause you needair down,,

[moose]

Jaybird , I see that you are running a zdz 80 which does require additional cooling and is cautioned in the instructions on the importance and necessity of using baffles for the engine.

The area where cooling is required on any engine is the cylinder head area as that is where the combustion takes place and hence that is where you will find the cooling fins. Based on those simple guidelines the purpose of the baffle is to deflect and force as much of the air flowing through the cowl towards the area of high heat ( cylinder and fins ) .

If you look at the third picture you have posted you have also added balsa below the prop shaft...(the one that is not painted black) that is not required as it will ristrict the air flow down towards the cylinder, so if you could just remove that piece I think you have done a good job and check temps and you will find a noticible difference in temp with and without baffles.......just my 2 cents worth.

[adrian]

hot = lean or not enough oil or not enough airflow

start with one - oil - ZDZ like 40:1 even 32:1 full synthetic like motul 800

then make sure you are rich enough for those marathon hovers - the cause of major heat - ..

the airflow ratio has always been 1 in three out - no other ratio - so work on that and make sure that the props area that push the air into the cowl is maximised

follow the above and all should be good.

PS: baffles is very good but!!!!! the air must be utilized like a vortex and never create a pressure chamber!!!!

[Toro]

those baffles there may not be helping, but they probably aren't hurting. I say leave em'. Like moose said, the important part is the combustion area, or usually the top 2-3 fins. Get those in the air, and perhaps give the high screw a turn to richen it up a tad, as it sounds like it leaned out on you during a hover.

Also, Marathon hovering is cool and all, but I would take it on a cool off lap every so often you can get some of that heat exchanged and blown off your cylinder, otherwise you'll turn that pretty plue into a nice purple after you over heat that sucka...

[Jaybird]

Thanks guys, I'm about to go find out if it works.

[dick hanson]

baffles really can be a puzzle -if you look at them as devices used to force the flow of air into the cowl.
Actually-- they are for directing the flow of air being pulled thru the cowl.
So - if the air being pulled out has an easier path to get fresh air - that's the path it will take . Motha Nature takes the easiest path.
The old" 3-1 formula" is simply a way of saying you need to make a LOW pressure in the cowl to get flow thru and out.
NO air is being pushed into the cowl-unless it is easier for air to go IN the inlets than around tham - and that Jack, don't happen--- UNLESS there is lower pressure in the cowl..
Look at a full scale racer: the inlets are tiny but the outlets are designed to PULL air thru .
I block off every inlet on my 80's cowls (and twins also)except the area at the head/cylinder. If these cylinders stay cool ,the entire engine stays cool.
The reason crankcases heat up is due to thermal soak - that is , the hot cylinder transmits heat thru the aluminum to any cooler point. In bad cases - the spinner ends up hot. Crankcases get cooled from the fresh fuel charge flowing inside them.
This isn't just a unproven 'theory". We (a group of local guys), have tested it over and over, mainly on 150/160 sized aerobatic stuff - We can now load on big props and not worry about overheating the engines. Of course the mixture must be correct! lean runs will negate any cooling attempts . ( I run a 30x14 on my 160 )- and it works perfectly and stays cool -- hovers-- whatever -
In prolonged hovering - the engine is loaded -no matter what the throttle setting and cooling flow from a good duct setup is most important .
At the moment, I am running my third ZDZ80 Super - (the first was prototype and returned to ZDZ for evaluation. The second was sold in a plane to a friend) and the piston looks perfect - no scratches - nice even grey color the ring floats easiy etc..
The engine is turning a 27x10 Mejzlic easily (6500 static 7000 in the air) - because the full pipe is tuned at lower rpms and the cooling setup keeps temps way down. The in cowl muffler will not turn this prop over 6000 don't even bother-but on 26x10's, that setup is great. Lots of revs & easy to do. Just get the jug out in the air or duct it for best in cowl flow.

[Jaybird]

Just got back from the field, After each flight I got 215f on the hottest part of the cylinder. These flights were about half 3d, some harrier rolls with a little hovering right at the end of the flight. Air temp was only about 60 degrees though.
Brian

[TazmanianDevil]

Make a 3 to 1 air inlets from the front to the bottom so you will have an air circulation.
The cilinder is olredy out side so you don't have to be wory for him,make sure the cranccases get enough cool and circulating air.
Cheack the OIL%