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#1 |
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3D or Bust
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Winter Park, CO
Age: 33
Posts: 609
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Hey guy's,
have a question for ya. I have been out of the hobby for a few years and I'm looking to buy a used H9 33% Edge that has a ZDZ 80 with a Blue cylinder Head. I have been updated with the new Super 80, but have not found any info on the blue head version? whats up with this thing? |
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#2 |
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I have Issues
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,311
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As far as i know there is no difference between the older zdz 80 and the blue head one itself. just a blue head.
Major improvement in the super 80 though
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"Professional KeyBoard Pilot" |
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#3 |
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Shake and Bake
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Jay Florida
Age: 37
Posts: 1,740
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Yup, Its blue, no other difference.
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#4 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: murray utah
Posts: 2,114
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well -- there is a bit of evolution in the 80
first ones had bridged exhaust port ( a series of square windows Next a single large oval cutout for exhaust port next - the paint - blue --and now black- not to be confused with the new J series Super 80 which is an altogether different engine. If the blue head has a current (no pun) ignition and is run on a good synthetic at say 30-40 1- and if you have the Walbro carb - it will run very well - on a decent pipe or properly tuned .canister -it runs right with most 100's on in cowl mufflers dun it -over n over . The 80J is a different design -no interchangeable stuff -a tall these engines -if you can find em as NIB are often terrific buys as some see them as obsolete -superceeded by the 80J Not so - they are light and perfect matches for a number of 18-24 lb ARFS Last edited by dick hanson; 10-31-2006 at 08:18 PM. |
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#5 |
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3D or Bust
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Winter Park, CO
Age: 33
Posts: 609
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Thanks guy's
How About the Footprint of the engines? Will the 80J mount into the 80RV mounting holes and standoffs if I decide to upgrade later this spring? I have flown a H9 cap with a 3W 106, it was a blast but I also lived in CO @ 5,300 feet. |
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#6 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: murray utah
Posts: 2,114
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nope -- for whatever reasons - the dimensions are all different - even exhaust port bolt spacing- but prop setup is the same
The 80J is not quite as strong as the 3W -until you add a full pipe I am at 4350 ft - get 6550+ on the ground on a Mejzlic 27-10 -AMT pipe smooth as glass and very quiet. In checking it against the 3W 106 it does extremely well |
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#7 | |||||||||||||||
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I have Issues
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,311
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Is that so..i heard the super 80 had more power then the 3w 80 on a pitts muffler. I have a 3w 80 on a jmb can and its a nice combo for power i think.
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"Professional KeyBoard Pilot" |
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#8 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: murray utah
Posts: 2,114
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I was referring to the 106 twin on in cowl mufflers.
I never have seen the new 80 3W - tho I have heard it is a good runner. |
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#9 |
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Uber Contributer
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pakistan
Age: 41
Posts: 170
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Dick, I have seen your comments on the ZDZ being run on good synthetic prior to this thread as well. Are you talking about an engine that has been broken in on mineral and is now running on synthetic or is it advisable to use synthetic oil with this engine from the get go. I have started running my blue head with a 32:1 mineral mix but have access to Amsoil Saber 100:1 now. What kind of performance increase is expected when simply switching oils ? I am getting 6200 on a Topflite 24 x 10 but I am not happy with the wood on this prop, it shifted position twice on the hub - probably the bolly carbon would be better (once I balance it). Is it necessary to use the 6 bolt pattern or is the centre stud with a check nut good enough. I was thinking of using a couple of grub screws in the hub positions to keep the prop from slipping ? TIA
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#10 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: murray utah
Posts: 2,114
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The Sabre at 100-1 is not desireable The engine has a rear rotor and a good oil film makes this seal well and prevents wear
I run 32-1 synthetic from day 1 - the onlything needing seating is the ring and it is not a hard ring. I STAY at 32 -1 for all flying The center shaft is not designed to hold the prop -It is a centering shaft primarily and is not locked in - It can loosen Grub screws in the hub as prop drivers can cause a wood prop to explode in some cases - extremely dangerous - I have seen it -got hit by one . You must have a restrictive muffler ? the power wil not change and tho it does improve a little -there is no big power increase as engine breaks in I usually see a few hundred- at best - on my engines. |
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#11 |
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Uber Contributer
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pakistan
Age: 41
Posts: 170
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Can Amsoil Saber be used at 32:1 - is it advisable or are you suggesting the use of some other synthetic. I am running a PEFA 75cc cannister muffler with a 7 inch header - I remember you had suggested a bigger muffler in another thread but this is all I have access to right now. Would changing the exhaust stack of the cannister to a bigger dia help ? I am not too worried about tuning so long as I get adequate power and am not bogging down the engine.
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#12 |
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I'm Watching You!
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I wouldnt mix Saber at 100:1, way too heavy. Either get yourself some Dominator and mix it at 40:1, or get Mobile 1 (cant remember the exact one) and mix it between 32 and 40:1. I have 20 gallons or so through my 80 blue-head in my comp arf 2.6m (33%) and it pulls it around great. I never switched it from Pennsoil 2-stroke air cooled and continue to run it at 32:1. I have plenty of power and it burns pretty clean. I think about switching it to synthetic, but since I always seem to be breaking in a new engine at any time, and dont want to run 3 gas cans, I keep it at 32:1. 100:1 for my DAs, and 32:1 for the ZDZ, and then I always have break in fuel mix for any new engine as well. It would suck to carry a 3rd can at 40:1 synthetic.
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"Hey at Joe Nall I personally saw Tank kick a kitten in the face!" --66Stang J'Tec Radiowave 3D HobbyShop Aircraft International |
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#13 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: murray utah
Posts: 2,114
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I am lost on the can/header you are running - if it runs faster than it will with NO exhaust system - it is ok but some smaller ones I have seen run slower than no exhaust system- not good--
For oil - Iknow that Mobil32-1 from new -is a good oil - and RCShowcase also really likes the S2 Yamalube -32-1 Redline RACING 2STROKE also good (32-1) I amsoil ? -just never tried it . but 100-1 mixes I really don't think are a good idea for this type engine with rear rotor which also needs oil to seal best. Since I switched to the 32-1 mixes -the pistons look better - engines run great and so I stay with it |
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#14 |
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Uber Contributer
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pakistan
Age: 41
Posts: 170
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I got Amsoil Saber for my DA 50 as I am through with the running in and was thinking of running it at 50:1. Is anyone running this oil with their ZDZ 80s as I would not like to carry different fuel mixes either and synthetic oil is very hard to come by over here.
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#15 |
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Super Contributer
![]() Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 120
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is the 80 that you have in your H( edge a twin or a single ? and does it aoll fit inside the cowl? I am building one now and looking for an engine other than the GT80 / if so do you have any photos of the install .
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