Eflite Park 480 Motor Question

[66stang]

I have a Brio that I put an E-flite Park 480 outrunner in. It has absoulutely no power. I could hardly get it off the ground. I'm using a 3 cell lipo and an E-flite 40amp ESC. I treid a 12X6 and a 10X7 prop. Anyone else having problems with this motor. I already called Horizon and I'm sending it back. Oh and tested it on my watt meter. It only produced 200Watts. Are these motors junk?

[Freddy Warbird]

What wind is it? Is it the 1020KV, or the 910 KV?

	Quote:
	I'm using a 3 cell lipo

What 3S Lipo?

[66stang]

It's the 1020Kv.. A friend of mine has one in a Mini Funtana and it's making no power either. But two other guys at my club have them in there Brio's and they have crazy power. I don't get it.

[ibange]

That is strange. I have the same exact setup in my brio and it rocks!

One thing, check your endpoints in your radio. I spent a lot of money to upgrade a e-stick to brushless because it sucked with a brushed setup, only to realize after installing the outrunner that we had the endpoints set to where it was only ever getting to a little less than 1/2 throttle.

[TonyThomasian]

yea, definitly check your travel adjust, but as well as your prop. If you run a APC 10X4.7 prop on the brio, yoo should have plenty of power!

[66stang]

My end points are correct. That's one of the first things I checked. Here's another thing I thought looked funny. When I ran the motor on my Watt meter. It read 195 to 200 Watts and was pulling 30amps. Looks like alot of amp draw for only 200Watts! I also had a 10X7 & 12X6 APC Electric Prop on. It also would take my battery down fast. Just on a simple pull on my Watt meter. At the field I tried 3 different freshly charged lipos. So nobody else having this problem?

[MetHerInBaghdad]

That is very odd for sure.
My E-flite motors are now preferred over my AXIs believe it or not.
I have a 480 on a Brio-sized pattern plane and it is putting out crazy power and pulling 18.75 amps with a 10x4.8 on my 26oz Reactor.

Maybe you do send it back to get checked out, but I have not heard of this from anyone on the e-flite. Very odd since your buddy has the same issue.

How are the batteries? Are they hot as heck? Maybe they can't keep up with the draw from the motor. Just a thought.

Keep us informed.

[ibange]

That is EXTREMELY odd and should not be possible.

Volts x amps = whatts. Therefore at 11.1v x 30 amps you should be at 333 whatts. If it weren't for the fact that you say that you have tried multiple packs I would suggest that your pack is drawing down to a lower voltage. In fact I just punched the numbers into my calculator and its telling me that to get the numbers you are showing you would have to be pulling less than 7 volts to only get 200 whatts out of it at 30 amps.

Are you absolutely certain that somehow you aren't running on 2 cells? I would think that if your voltage is that low, you packs must have something wrong with them... or something really odd is happening.

[66stang]

No there 3Cell packs. Plus they work fine in my othere planes. I'm glad you brought up the motor calc. The motor does draw the pack down. But only to 10volts. My packs are cool. To say the least I'm cornfused. I'm glad to hear this motor does work well with the Brio.

[Ion01]

It might be the ESC I would think. You can program them so maybe it is set to think that it is connected to a two cell battery. Maybe its defective. I had 2 defective ones in a row from pheonix. I am not saying that they are bad because the one that I have now is great! That just seems to be my luck.

[BR289]

I have the 480 and its great, plenty of power!

[exeter_acres]

ITs been asked already... but WHICH batteries?? what brand? what capacity? what "C" Rating?

[Uncle Brett]

My first thought was that your batteries are old/shot and are dumping under load but you said they work fine on your other planes so that rules that out. Since you've checked out the end points, that eliminates that. So the only other things left are the ESC and motor. Most all new ESC's are self calibrating right out of the box, meaning they will automatically recognise the voltage imput (7.4V, 11.1V, 14.8V etc) with no user adjustments nessessary. If you can, try another ESC that you might have laying around, it doesn't have to be a 40 amp'er, just hook up a wattmeter inline and advance the the throttle to the ESC's burst rate for no more than 5 sec's. You should be able to tell right away if your 40amp Esc is the problem. My thinking is your motor is de-magged, but try another ESC before sending the motor back.

[Ion01]

On average, how long would it take for a motor to demagnetise?

[Uncle Brett]

There's really no simple answer for that. I used the term "de-magged" as a generalization. It could be one of the magnets was weak out of the box or not bonded to the case properly. It's rare but it does happen. Motors will demag through excessive heat. If you over amp or you have a bad winding, the motor will over heat because of the internal resistance, among other things. Heat kills magnets just as heat kills lipos. The quality of the magnet plays a part in this as well. Higher quality magnets seem to hold their properties at higher heat levels.
So like I said Ion01, there's really no simple answer to your question. I've had motors that I've abused and overheated many times over and they just kept running. I've also had motors that died after only one abusive run. The point is, don't overheat your motors and they should last many years. If you can't hold your finger on the motor for more than 5 sec. after a run, then it's too hot and will eventually die.