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#1 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,372
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I installed a pressure fitting for smoke on my DA 50 stock muffler, complete with red loctite and it keeps backing out...what else can I do to keep it in ? I dont want to torque it down cause there isnt much metal..looks very thin..
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#2 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SLC, UT
Age: 38
Posts: 931
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Here is what i do. Take a 8/32 pressure fitting and a 8/32 nut. Solder the nut onto your exhaust, then drill a small hole inside the nut through the exhaust. Use red locktite and cinch the sucker in place.
David |
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#3 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,372
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So you solder the nut right on the outside of the exhaust, drill a 8-32 hole (untapped) through the muffler, then instead of screwing into the muffler you torque it down on the threads of the nut ? The solder doesnt melt from the heat ?
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#4 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SLC, UT
Age: 38
Posts: 931
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Don't drill an 8-32 hole or you will drill out the threads of the nut. Go down is size a little. You don't use "solder" like the stuff you use for electronics or plumbing, more like a brazing.
David |
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#5 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,372
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Ok I think I know what you mean...I dont have access to anything thats suitable for brazing..not even sure what that is !! LOL..
![]() all I got is some ratty old Silver Solder and a 100w solder gun..
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#6 |
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balsa, glue & gas
![]() Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,972
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Consider silver solder with a torch for heat source - or betta yet , ASK DA!!??
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#7 |
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Uber Contributer
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Canada
Age: 45
Posts: 194
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If you can glue plywood with epoxy then JB weld could be for you
http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php
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#8 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,372
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Yea I asked them and they said they havent had any problems using red loctite so that wasn't much help
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#9 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,372
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Already tried that too..cleaned all surfaces and mixed..it craked after 3 flights Maybe Ill try it again
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#10 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,372
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#11 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Canada
Age: 26
Posts: 260
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I used some RTV silicon on the threads, worked perfect. I didn't have any problems with it. Worth a shot if you have some laying around.
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#12 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,372
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#13 |
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Clean
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Just an FYI... since i've seen the confusion before.
Bbrazing is using brass and heat. Soldering is using solder. Just sometimes you use thick solder which it what people often incorrectly call brazing. Also, you can't braze stainless, you'll have to silver solder it. |
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#14 |
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Tony Quist
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Glendale, AZ
Age: 48
Posts: 1,492
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I thought the difference between solder, braze and weld was the temps used. I have no metal skills so I could be wrong.
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#15 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SLC, UT
Age: 38
Posts: 931
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I go to Home Depot, in the section of welding stuff they have "solder" that is 50% ish silver. Works great on all exhaust stuff. They also have torches for about $35, be sure to use MAP gas instead of propane, MAP is much hotter.
David |
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