I am looking for information on scratch building floats for a .60 size biplane. Any assistance is appriciated.
I have made a set of skis for a 77 inch span Piper Cub, but have yet had the chance to try them in flight. Used them in the back yard but i am not sure how they will affect the flight charictaristics and have only flown the plane 5 times so far. I have been flying a Great Planes Dazzler and Corsair for the last year, but am not comfortable with the cub yet.
dan

Photos of the last weekend

Hi guys, this is just a recognition for all the help I got from your site and the FG community to build this my first EDGE 540 31% from CAModel.







I had just break-in the DA-85 and expect to do the first flight next weekend.

Thanks.
Gustavo.

flying a carden yak with a dle 55 while doing harrier rolls,all four prop bolts broke, lost prop but managed to land only loosing undercarriage, cannot figure out what happened, very strange, anyone have a clue how or why this happened, everything was tight pre flight.

And now is female. After a salad of parts, assembled a Piper and gifts Marcele, Ronaldinho's sister and girlfriend's Bila. She already trained on the simulator and don't had some difficulties in piloting.

i have a 37% toc that will hold a 100cc gas motor and am wanting to know if i can put a 150 cc on it as well with out to much difference on weight

I Build more a Yak 55M, but this came with some modifications that I think have improved the plane. And I suggest that is implanted in the assembly design of the next aircraft.

1 - One problem the project has always been the weakness of the landing gear. The depron bar has been removed (always breaks even), and was assigned a new lock of the landing and anchored in the same point in support of the wings. And in tests (forced landings or controlled falls)the landing gear resisted good. And finally, although not shown in these photos were also taken from the leggings, are cool but do not last long.



2 - The ailerons and wings were cut in one piece, so as to prevent the ailerons paste off over time. We should mark (draw) the aileron on the wing. V-Groove should be cut in the position of connection of the wing with the aileron. Sounds complicated to make, but it is very simple, should be done free hand, the knife angled at 45 degrees, and controlling the depth of the blade in depron. To control the depth to make a mark on the blade so that shows how far the tip of the knife to enter the depron. I used a mark of 3mm.

3 - Was placed on the wing plus a small bar of carbon fiber, as was observed in those maneuvers with large deflection and great speed, for example, snaps at speed, there is a deformation on the tip of the wing and aileron. To the tip of the aileron is not given a solution. This change is still in testing. On flights I did I liked the result, but the plane is still very new and very locked. This change is best mesuread over time, when the depron begin to soften.



4 - Finally the use of steel guitar/piano wire of 0.5 mm or stell wire fishing for the pull pull rudder. Being an extremely hard wire, a single ply locked with a shrink or steel tube, to solve your installation, which makes a very good solution to the assembly very simple.



Below some more pictures of the painting.

Any one have any info on the new Pilot-RC 87" Sbach 342 CF 29% ARF by Chief Aircraft http://openskyrc.blogspot.com/

Need help getting started or just info all in one place about rc flying come to http://openskyrc.blogspot.com/

The cook book is coming along. We have 27 recipes and looking good about advertisments for the book also. Staying in touch with Becky the founder of the fund and talking with MOM.com also to get recipes and promotional paper work

A good option for those who have limited access to a good Depron is using trays Pizza. The construction was made up on the plan Yak55M, and were used trays Pizza Depron 35cm in diameter, this model was 10g with the most, compared to one made with depron of RCFoam.

The process of building the model is the same already posted HERE.

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I am just starting off building rubber band powered indorr model airplanes. I was just wondering if anyone could tell me the best size wood to use for planes like a penny plane or the science olympiad's sorcerer?

I am looking for a narrative description of the 2010 IMAC sequences. Can anyone help me in this regard?

I earned of Murilo´s friend one foamie Edge 540 with 120cm(inch) of wing and builded this using the setup:
-Motor E-Flite 450
-Speed chinese Ling 35A
-Servo chinese 9G
-Baterias 3S 1320mA Thunder Power


The flight is very good as well as other good foamies, but a as feature more, being more sizing and weighting it doesn´t suffer much interference from the winds.


For those who want to build the plant can be downloaded HERE or HERE(RCGroups)



Below photos and video:

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what is the differance between robart retracts and any other brand out threr. I want retracts for a zeroli 100" dauntless and the onlu thing i see differatt is the size og the strut and the price. I need help whith this one. almost 500.00 for robart. are they worth it?

Bomberbill

My friend Pengo after six months:
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My friend Pengo six months behind:
<object height="365" width="456">


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What a good simulator(G4) does not.

All of our customers love a good model plane and just like so many of our consumable products you may not give a lot of thought as to just how that model went from concept to reality.
The story starts out like just every other product, an idea. At Gravity many of our ideas start right here in the USA after looking at the market and determining what modelers like us want.
Let’s go through the process of what it takes to get one of our Sportsman Series models from an idea to a finished product and shipped to your door.
What we wanted in the Sportsman Series were models that were first and foremost easy to fly and build. We wanted to have a model that could both be a trainer to a newbie and a relaxing afternoon flyer for the advanced pilot.
The J-3 Cub, for instance, was a great choice as its design had inherent stability and also great classic looks. We took the design one step further by adding a slightly longer tail moment for added stability and slightly larger than scale tail surfaces for easier handing. These types of changes to an existing scale design are often used in Free Flight scale models as they need added stability and those choices carry over to RC.
The real reason we make a change like this is all about physics and the fact that a full scale airplane is flying through the same size air molecules as a small model, the only difference is the air molecules stay the same size for both. Adding a slightly larger tail surface will make the model fly in a more stable fashion as scale gets smaller.
Once we have agreed on a design the model is then prototyped and test flown. This process can go through a few iterations before we come to the final layout. This is also where we will try different motor/ prop and other component setups as well as different airfoils to find the best combination. We will also determine exactly which materials and manufacturing techniques we will employ in the final product.
The nest step in the process is 3D modeling for tooling. The design is usually further refined in this stage and other details are added. The different parts of the plane are all modeled separately and drawn in 3D as they will be produced. When the 3D is done then tooling can start.
The tooling is the real time consuming and expensive part of the process; it is also a very precise operation. Tooling for a model like the ones in our Sportsman series can cost upward of 20K and is quite an investment for us.
Gravity hobby employs the latest in steel tooling manufacture and all tools are CNC machined to exact specification from the 3D drawings. All of our Gravity airplane tooling is made on site right alongside our manufacturing facility.
The Sportsman Series is made from different types of EPS foam for flying surfaces and HIPS plastic for all the cowlings and other injection molded parts. The EPS foam is very lightweight and our Gravity Factory has had many years of experience building models in this type of construction.
Each part of the plane is of course designed with different structural properties; the fuselage is what we call “Bead Molded” which means that small pellets of polystyrene are injected into the steel mold and then expanded by steam to their final size. The way this is done at our factory provides us precise control over weight and the final surface detailing.
The wings and stabs are made a bit differently, here we employ a Thermoforming process that starts out with wings being cut from sheets of styrene coated EPS foam ( very similar to Depron ) The sheets are then put into precise steel molds and formed under immense pressure and heat to make the final wing structure.
In this way we can provide a superior wing profile that is exact in its execution. After molding all parts are gone over by hand to trim edges and go onto the paint shop. Our paint facility uses high quality downdraft paint booths and spray guns. Each Gravity Hobby model is painted by hand one at a time by our expert painters, once again giving us superior control over the weight and final finish of each part of the model.
After painting all the parts are set to dry in a climate controlled dust free environment before final assembly. Once parts are through the finish process and checked for quality the assembly and packaging process can begin. The models are sent through the assembly line with quality control checks at every major assembly step. All electronics are pre tested to ensure every model that you buy will work as advertised.
Our packaging is also custom designed for each model to ensure that the model gets from our HK plant to you without defects.
It takes many talented people to manufacture the products we sell and all our staff are dedicated to bring you the highest quality and best flying models in the marketplace.

Any chance on changing the buying options for something better than E-mail or PM ?

Like RCU has it ????

has anyone had any problems with the MLD 28cc electronioc ignition? I have had nothing but trouble with mine since i got it.

Has anyone out there put an mld 28cc engine on an aeroworks 120 yak? And if so, how did it work out.