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Posted by jaggededge | 08-28-2010 @ 02:44 PM | 10,296 Views
Not directly for our application but interesting none the less. I come from 2 stroke street bike background. Talk of ignition systems is bringing up some memories of my '85 RZ350.

The CDI on that thing was ALWAYS dieing and have been known for dieing.. and at the worst time. Sitting at a light in LA traffic. Or when a bunch of gangbangers are eye'ing the bike from a van, next to me at a light. They've became expensive to replace and banshee ignitions are not compatible.
Fortunately a wacky Slovenian has created programmable ignitions and exhaust valve controllers for the old 2 strokes.

Technical data:
- minimum revs 200 RPM
- maximum revs 20000 RPM
- minimum supply voltage 8 Volts
- maximum supply voltage 20 Volts
- current draw 20mA
- max. supply voltage for 1 minute 40 Volts
- dimensions (LxWxH) 72x50x27mm

- one channel non isolated input
- ten custom programmable curves
- store and load function for ten custom curves
- easy and fast programming on the field, via handheld programmer
- programming while machine running - you can immediately see effects
- each curve can be set with 4 to 10 rev points
- each curve point can be programmed with 100rpm steps and 0,1deg steps
- three stage rev limit ( retard timing, reduced spark, spark off )
- signal delay compensation
- instant monitoring of rev and angle, via handheld programmer
- fast processing for high accuracy - delays from 1us
- theoretical maximum revs at 20000RPM (tested with pulse generator and oscilloscope)
- timing calculation for every 1RPM change (1000, 1001, 1002, .. .., 9805, 9806, ...)

Posted by jaggededge | 07-31-2010 @ 10:49 PM | 7,456 Views
Tomorrow I'll be tuning the DLE55 for its first flights. In doing some reading I came across a recent post requesting help with their engine. Tired Old Man was gracious enough to type up a quick "Needles 101" and I thought it was helpful.
To give credit where its due I am quoting this from here: https://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/...3&postcount=11

Originally Posted by Tired Old Man View Post
Needles 101: clockwise is leaner, counter clockwise is richer. The low needle is the one closest to the engine and might have an "L" cast into the carb. The high needle is the one farthest from the engine and might have an "H" cast into the carb next to it. Gas needles get turned very small amounts. Small adjsutments can make big changes. It's not a glow engine so don't do 1/2 turn adjustments. It will usually have been much too much. 1/16 of a turn can be the difference between "just right" and "sucks".

Secure the plane, leave the cowl off, start the engine. Let it warm up for a minute or so at half throttle before touching anything.

Run it up to wot. Lean the high needle, the one farthest from the engine, until the engine reaches and just passes the highest rpm point. Just enough so the high rpm falls off a little. Pay attention to where the slot in the needle was positioned. Now back off the same needle until the rpm picks up and backs off a little again. Put the needle roughly halfway between thse two spots. If you're good, or a little daring, lean it back out to peak rpm and leave it there. No need to run rich. Peak is perfect once you get the low right most of the time. Those times are noted later.

Let the engine continue at idle for a few minutes to cool down. Then advance the throttle to about 3,500-4,000 rpm. That's usually just a little less than 1/2 throttle. Turn the low needle (lean or rich depends on where it had been before starting) until the engine picks up a lot of rpm. Make that, picks up to where the engine reaches a peak and falls off a little. Back that needle up (richen) until the engine hits peak rpm for the middle throttle position. Reduce the throttle to idle and wait about 30 seconds.

Now advance the throttle rapidly. Te engine will probably go "wuff" and not throttle up well. Richen the needle about 1/8 turn with the engine at idle. Wait about 30 seconds. Advance the throttle rapidly again to wot. What did the engine do? Did it go "wuff" like it ran out of gas? If so, that's what it did because the low needle is still lean. Richen up another 1/8 turn and try again.

OTH, did the engine sputter like it was wet? If so it's rich and you need to lean the low needle about 1/2 of the turn amount you used when you richened it. Keep following this process until the throttle response is as crisp as you can make it. Then go fly.

In flight you get to note how good your tuning was. There is generally a little bit of low end needle work still left to do after it gets in the air. Listen to your engine. Does if "wuff" when you throttle up or sputter and burbal? Each sound tells you what you need to do, in very small increments, when you get it back on the ground. Feel fortunate. Your needles are at the back of the engine and easy to access with the engine running. Have sympathy for those with needles up front. They get to stop their engines every time they have to twist a needle, and start it back up to see how well they did.

After the high needle is peaked, 99% of the time any further adjustments will be done at the low end. Too lean on the low end could require the high end be richened. Some engines are finicky that way. This is that "later" part. The DLE 111 and the BME 116 both fit that shoe.

For the guy that complained about not giving any tuning instructions. Why didn't you step up to the plate?

This was the brief version. The long one involves a bunch of instrumentation. Enjoy.

Posted by jaggededge | 07-23-2010 @ 12:23 PM | 7,368 Views
What the hell is Gator Gas? It's a DIY fuel tank of course!

Seems to be a popular thing around here. Thread: https://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/...ad.php?t=38890
Using a left over water bottle or soda bottle for a gas tank. They are lighter, stronger, easier to see through and most importantly they don't leak.

I adapted the parts from a tank that came with my plane to a bottle in about 15 minutes. Using the washer as a guide I drilled the 4 holes in the cap making sure to clear out the burs to give a nice and flat surface. Then assemble so the plug is squeezed against the back of the cap.

So since I jumped on the DIY gas tank band wagon I made a logo. Gator Gas.
Posted by jaggededge | 07-23-2010 @ 12:54 AM | 7,331 Views
I've been meaning to spend some time with the free Phoenix RC skin creator so I could fly a Gary Ward MX2 using the 150cc Extra in the sim. Since the models are locked the Extra's shape will have to do.
I brought the files in Photoshop and after scaling and shaping using images of my 30% MX2 I had a sample ready to try in the sim.
I'll be cleaning it up a bit using some better resolution images and will try to make the star fit properly on the cowl. It should turn out to be pretty good.

Check it out here if you're interested.