Posted by MissQ |
04-17-2017 @ 01:16 AM | 664 Views
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I have been asked a few times lately about the proper way to install a servo into your aircraft utilizing the grommets and brass eyelets. A lot of people don't actually know and there isn't much documentation on the proper installation procedure so I am going to detail it here.
It's actually very simple, the grommets only install one way into the servo, it's the brass eyelet that you need to be concerned with. For most standard installations, the servo mounting rails will be installed above the mounting surface. The brass eyelets have a small flange on them, this flange is what needs to face into the mounting surface.
The reason you want the flange in the eyelet to face the mounting surface is so that it does not crush the mounting surface when you tighten the screw down. The wide flange spreads the load out, you always want the flange to face the mounting surface.
When you tighten the screw down, you don't want to crank the screw down. There is 2 reasons for this:
1. You don't want to crush the surface the brass eyelet presses into and possibly compromise the mounting surface.
2. You don't want to strip out the hole the screw threads into.
All you need is for the screw to pinch down on the rubber grommet, this will compress the grommet slightly and force it to squeeze both down onto the brass eyelet and squeeze out onto the servo mounting rails. This is plenty sufficient for both small aircraft all the way up to giant scale airplanes
I got the engine mocked up and some servo's in. Made some control links and started getting some electronics installed. I set the plane up and measured for the landing gear. Waiting on the fuel tank and some other parts. Will start on the ailerons this week and get them working. I am going to use a match box for the ailerons. I will work on throttle linkage and choke linkage this week also.
I am getting excited about this plane. It's my first giant scale plane.
Just editing up the indoor vids from a couple weeks ago and more is on the way. These are the super-lite planes from Twisted Hobbys. When it's calm outside, they are a blast outdoors as well. The thumbnail is a little 3D Line joke from Nall a few years back.
I’m a big fan of the large Haigh-Style tailwheel assembly manufactured by Ohio Superstar Products. I find them easy to install, they provide good dampening and are extremely durable.My only issue...and I may be the only R/C’er in the world faced with this problem, is the amount of built in swivel.
The way that the wheel assembly is manufactured allows it to pivot 90 degrees left or right of centerline. While this design provides 180 degrees of travel, I seldom, IF EVER, need that amount! In fact, about 30 degrees total travel provides total control on the ground, both on paved and grassy surfaces.
Another issue with the design is that the tailwheel will sometimes hang up at 90 degrees whenever full left or right rudder is employed. Although the wheel will pivot back to center upon landing, the added (unsymmetrical) load on the rudder servo during flight makes for some interesting maneuvers!
Okay, so here is my fix. I’ve installed a pair of “stops” that restrict the total left and right travel to approximately 35 degrees in either direction.
Rummage through your spare supply of music wire to find a size that looks appropriate for the job and that you have a drill bit to match.
Using the wheel collar that came with the tailwheel assembly as a guide, either scribe or mark with a pencil the outer diameter of the collar on the top (flat side) of the bracket. This is somewhat important because the collar must be able to fit between the pair of pins that you’re about to install.
Drill one hole outside the circumference of the collar and as far forward to the edge of the straight side as possible. The hole should be drilled all the waythrough the first side and only HALF or less of the way into the second side of the slot. This allows the pins to be held in place by simply swaging the top of the holes.
Measure the total depth of the holes and reduce the measurement by a small amount. The pins need to be slightly recessed in their respective holes to allow for swaging.
Drop the pins into place and swage (dimple) the top edge of the holes.
Reassemble the tailwheel and note that the pins now use the collar set screw as a “stop.”
If you find that you’ve either misjudged the distance between the pins or if they tend to hang up slightly on the collar, just grind the outer dimension of the collar to make things work smoothly.
Perhaps someday Ohio Superstar will consider altering their design by milling a curved slot vs. a straight slot for the collar. In the meantime, this solution has worked great for me and I hope it does the same for you.
Posted by MissQ |
03-18-2017 @ 02:18 AM | 3,699 Views
Gens ace and Tattu official forum is now live http://www.forum.genstattu.com
You can login in by forum username or genstattu.com account.
And it is one of the most active RC hobby and lipo battery discussion community.
Posted by ratchetop |
03-17-2017 @ 11:50 AM | 3,723 Views
I acquired this Giles 202 and have purchased a DLE 111 for it. The plane has on the wings Ultimate Charger II and built by Dr. R Suding. I did some digging and found some information but would like to find some more. I found an article from 1999 in
Farm flyers rc about Dr. Suding and know he invented and developed the Ultimate Charger. I will post pics as I go but here is what I am starting with.