Originally Posted by Vital-Rc

Hey Guys if you're looking at building tanks and don't want to do the MOQ most USA warehouses require I have them on my site. Every fitting is made in the USA .

http://www.vital-rc.com/store/c2/Fuel_Fittings.html

That's a nice stopper. I have one on a Fiji tank in a new 104" Extra I'm building.

Originally Posted by JoeAirPort

That's a nice stopper. I have one on a Fiji tank in a new 104" Extra I'm building.

Yes they are , Mark is a very good machinist .

Thanks Justin. You're giving me the big head LOL Just hope guys that use them enjoy them as much as I have.

I just don't understand why we have to have 3 possible leak points instead of one. Let's ditch the vent and drain/fill lines by putting 2 or 3 lines coming out of the cap. Cheaper, easier to fit in tight places and less chance of leaks. Win, Win, Win

Awesome idea. I'm thinking the masses will not pay the coin that would be demanded by CNC setup or the manual labor to cut 3 nipples in and out on a mill and lathe. The high quality fittings with Viton oring seals is about the only reliable option.

Scott

Originally Posted by g257945

Awesome idea. I'm thinking the masses will not pay the coin that would be demanded by CNC setup or the manual labor to cut 3 nipples in and out on a mill and lathe. The high quality fittings with Viton oring seals is about the only reliable option.

Scott

Agreed but don't mill the nipples in just drill 2 or 3 holes that can be tapped for the required fittings. While a threaded insert does add another possible point of leak, I would trust a metal to metal connection well over the plastic fitting screwed to a ultra thin plastic bottle

Yep that would work too, how would one run a fill drain line inside and the vent inside without undue plumbing, zipties etc (ie: make the curves up and down) from the inside of this cap? Remember everything has to fit through the neck or the bottle.

Scott

Originally Posted by g257945

Yep that would work too, how would one run a fill drain line inside and the vent inside without undue plumbing, zipties etc (ie: make the curves up and down) from the inside of this cap? Remember everything has to fit through the neck or the bottle.

Scott

Good points but I bet those problems could be solved with a little ingenuity. I did not buy Crankshaft's cap. Instead I went with the new PSP cap kit for the standard Fiji cap. At $8 it's a deal and works like a standard glow cap with options for multiple lines. For single line applications I believe Cranks' option is the best one. I had 2 valley view rc cap kits and was planning on using one of those but for some reason it will not thread onto the Fiji bottle

You are correct, it would be a slick idea to keep everything in the cap and not have to cut holes in a perfectly sealed bottle, but then again they say the same thing about skylights and sunroofs also, ha! Actually I have spent quite a bit of time entertaining this idea with a well-known and experienced CNC machinist/engineer and we both came to the same conclusion that it would be cost prohibitive because the vent and fill fittings are already on the market and work well when installed correctly. Why reinvent the wheel adding complexity and a cost that no one would pay. It’s the same thing with quality metal 90* fittings. To make a fitting to seal with an O-ring and screw together with a 90* bend would be a costly part to bring to market. Anything can be made except a paying customer…

Scott

Originally Posted by g257945

Anything can be made except a paying customer…

True Story.

Originally Posted by g257945

You are correct, it would be a slick idea to keep everything in the cap and not have to cut holes in a perfectly sealed bottle, but then again they say the same thing about skylights and sunroofs also, ha! Actually I have spent quite a bit of time entertaining this idea with a well-known and experienced CNC machinist/engineer and we both came to the same conclusion that it would be cost prohibitive because the vent and fill fittings are already on the market and work well when installed correctly. Why reinvent the wheel adding complexity and a cost that no one would pay. It’s the same thing with quality metal 90* fittings. To make a fitting to seal with an O-ring and screw together with a 90* bend would be a costly part to bring to market. Anything can be made except a paying customer…

Scott

have you looked around. people buy bling all the time if it is quality. go to a big giant scal event and check out the 150 dollar wheels and such. i knowi got a pair. or two :P

what im saying, is that people will buy the stuff if it doesnt fail. got me?

Originally Posted by robbinsp

have you looked around. people buy bling all the time if it is quality. go to a big giant scal event and check out the 150 dollar wheels and such. i knowi got a pair. or two :P

what im saying, is that people will buy the stuff if it doesnt fail. got me?

Oh I agree completely, I'll spend $100.00 on a piece of bling when a $2 plastic part would suffice just for the cool factor however, I have years invested in marketing new ideas to the r/c community and the vast majority of the comments or complaints are cost related. We live in an ARF world now and cheep rules. Not much worse for a vendor than to have a product sitting in a bin collecting dust because the masses won't pay the price of r/d and the investment the manufacture has in that product. They take their business elsewhere and blinger's like you and I suffer for it..


Scott

I dont care what it costs........if I like it..... I buy it
Moneys no object when it comes to toys

Originally Posted by rooman

I dont care what it costs........if I like it..... I buy it
Moneys no object when it comes to toys

1+


Scott

Originally Posted by rooman

I dont care what it costs........if I like it..... I buy it
Moneys no object when it comes to toys

+2