Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat

I know a guy that I;m sure could mill up some adapters to DA exhaust

Maybe I should just order the parts & weld up my own header...
hmm

That's the best way then you get what you want.I am sure in time you will be able to buy some already made.
Also,I will bet that your going to see more DA70's for sale now at a lower price.

Originally Posted by closetguy

That's the best way then you get what you want.I am sure in time you will be able to buy some already made.
Also,I will bet that your going to see more DA70's for sale now at a lower price.

Actually I was kidding, I'd say it's a bad idea unless you really know what your doing lol. A friend tried that & it didn't go so well & ended up buying headers anyhow.

If the offset of cylinders is the same then adapters may be the best option. I don't see MTW making headers for this engine, but it would be nice if they did.

Good news - a few 76's on it's way - shows delivery on Saturday. If all is well and weather is good - I might be able to make it to Lineville with 3X 70cc planes after all.

Originally Posted by rcnorth

Maybe I should just order the parts & weld up my own header...
hmm

LOL, Ya, I know my mistakes I did now. Way to much heat. Brazing isn't like Soldering at all, I found. When soldering, if the Solder doesn't wick and flow, the metal isn't hot enough, But Brazing you can get to hot to burn the carbon out and noting will stick then. Which is what I did. Next set will be much easier.

'

wingburner

Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat

LOL, Ya, I know my mistakes I did now. Way to much heat. Brazing isn't like Soldering at all, I found. When soldering, if the Solder doesn't wick and flow, the metal isn't hot enough, But Brazing you can get to hot to burn the carbon out and noting will stick then. Which is what I did. Next set will be much easier.

Or clean enough. Found that out and used more flux with heat. May be wrong, but don't think you can use too much flux. Any experienced solder's with info on that?

....

Has anyone used a123 for the ignition with GP's engines. Manual states 6.6 volts under load no less.


never mind I found it and you can't.

Originally Posted by closetguy

Has anyone used a123 for the ignition with GP's engines. Manual states 6.6 volts under load no less.


never mind I found it and you can't.

Ya, often wondered what the advantage is of selling an engine with an ignition that a BIG % of us can't use?......

Originally Posted by tande

Ya, often wondered what the advantage is of selling an engine with an ignition that a BIG % of us can't use?......

I don't understand, why can't everyone use the ignition?

I'm not sure what the issue is either--if the manual says 6.6 and higher, that means to me a LiFe or Lipo pack would work fine for ignition, and most around here no longer use NiCad or Nimh batteries anyway, and have been clamoring for everything to be "high-voltage".


A TechAero IBEC or one of the other powerboard systems like an X24 typically allow adjustable voltage thru their IBEC anyway

I’ve run into several ignitions that are rated 7.8 to 12v and that doesn’t work with my A123 batteries. One extreme to the other. I like the ones that say 6 - 12v.

I went to the GP123 for some info and they seem to get kick back on 6.6 volts or lower.I start out at that but I run it down to 6.4.The manual states no lower than 6.6 under load.Luckly I had a rcexl ignition for a twin,6.0-12 volts.I'm not going to put a lipo in any of my planes.