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Old 01-07-2009, 10:35 AM
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Re: A123 Batteries for Dummies.

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Originally Posted by Pale Rider View Post
The Cube is great.. and the fact that it charges at 2.5A is a non-issue really (at least to me). You can charge ALL your packs at the same time without having to disconnect/connect each pack.
That's what I like about it. My 3m Extra has 4 batteries in it and the Ion cube will be the best for it, the rest of my planes have 3 batteries each, another plus for the cube. The 2.5 amp limit is also no problem for me as I start my flying day at 6:30 am, and end it at sun down, so plenty of flying can be done and can charge the batteries at lunch for the afternoon flying.
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Old 01-07-2009, 11:49 AM
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Re: A123 Batteries for Dummies.

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Originally Posted by japan3d View Post
I want this to be simple, but the 3MM 53cc ignition is rated for 4.8 volts, so using A123's will require the use of regulators. So the cellpro is the charger to get?
If your ignition's manufacture date is after Oct. 2007 then you will be OK unregulated, if not later then you should drop down to something with a lower voltage. If you have some Li-Ion packs laying around that are no longer used, you can break they apart and use a single Li-Ion or singe Lipo cell to power your Rcexl ignition.

There is no need for a 2300mah pack on a twin, an 1100 pack will fly your twin probably an hour and a half and can be recharged in 10 minutes. There's really no need for A123 on ignition at all. Any old Nimh or Nicd pack will power the ignition.

To be honest on my 50cc planes that are on 2.4 ghz. I use the same 2300 A123 pack on both receiver and ignition, saves weight and money and that one pack holds way more than I am able to fly in a day.

It's not a bad idea to put Deans connectors on your switches' input side, the fewer of those servo connectors that are in the line the better power will flow. Each connector is a potential point of failure and resistance.

TF
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Old 01-07-2009, 03:20 PM
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Re: A123 Batteries for Dummies.

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Originally Posted by wildhare View Post
If you have some Li-Ion packs laying around that are no longer used, you can break they apart and use a single Li-Ion or singe Lipo cell to power your Rcexl ignition.
Does anyone have experience running a DL-50 v2 ignition on a single cell A123? I've been told that a single 1100mAh A123 cell (3.3 v) will power the DL-50 ignition just fine. Is that true? The FAQ's on DLUSA's website are pretty clear about the 4.8v-6.0v range being exact voltage.
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Old 01-11-2009, 01:38 PM
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Re: A123 Batteries for Dummies.

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Originally Posted by sgillmore View Post
Does anyone have experience running a DL-50 v2 ignition on a single cell A123? I've been told that a single 1100mAh A123 cell (3.3 v) will power the DL-50 ignition just fine. Is that true? The FAQ's on DLUSA's website are pretty clear about the 4.8v-6.0v range being exact voltage.
I contacted CH ignitions once and they said 4cell nimh was better than 5 cell nimh i.e. 4.8V

Straight from the manufacturers mouth so I run 4cell nimh on my DA85. Simple, no regs required. I'm only swithching the receiver packs over to A123s.
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Old 01-16-2009, 09:34 AM
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Re: A123 Batteries for Dummies.

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Originally Posted by wildhare View Post
If your ignition's manufacture date is after Oct. 2007 then you will be OK unregulated, if not later then you should drop down to something with a lower voltage.
TF
I just checked one of my 3MM ignitions and it says Version 2 with a date of August 2007 so I guess no A123 on the ignition. The other 3MM engine was purchased a year before this one so it's definitely not capable of using A123 batteries.
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Old 01-16-2009, 10:38 AM
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Re: A123 Batteries for Dummies.

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Originally Posted by japan3d View Post
I just checked one of my 3MM ignitions and it says Version 2 with a date of August 2007 so I guess no A123 on the ignition. The other 3MM engine was purchased a year before this one so it's definitely not capable of using A123 batteries.
You can put a couple diodes in line with the power to drop the voltage a little, or you can replace the ignitions with later model units for $69 each, or just use a 4.8 volt Nimh pack, or use a single Li-Ion cell. If you have a 2 cell liion pack, tear it apart and use one cell, it works great, weighs nothing and will run the engine for about 5 hours.

TF
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Old 01-16-2009, 12:08 PM
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Re: A123 Batteries for Dummies.

I know that 2 diodes in line with a 3S lipo will drop the 12.6V full charge down to 10.9V as indicated by my transmitter, just playing around on the bench, still using Nicds for flying.
I'm doing my first gasser and the EI is rated as 4.8-6V and I understand that does not mean that a 5 cell Nixx is OK in the case of my unit.
Anyone know the average current draw of a single cylinder EI unit?
Pete
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Old 01-18-2009, 07:36 PM
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Re: A123 Batteries for Dummies.

Avg current is NOT a good indicater for proper battery selection
has to do with HOW the EI builds voltage in primary section
And tho there are common circuits -commonly used --there are exceptions
The rash of new really inexpensive ignitions likely are not too fussy but some older dsigns were really fussy-- the ignition module easily failed if the power supply was inadequate .
personally I use only really high output (current) NIMH or A123 cells
I want the ignition to "fill" as fast as it can.
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Old 01-19-2009, 12:42 PM
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Re: A123 Batteries for Dummies.

Since my EI module should not be used with over 6V would a pair of diodes be OK to lower the actual voltage of 2S A123's, or should I just stick with a regulator?
Pete
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Old 01-19-2009, 06:23 PM
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Re: A123 Batteries for Dummies.

I really have no answer -
various doides will reduce VOLTAGE in varying amounts - I guess you are contemplating 1/2 v drop types.
but current is also part of the picture - I don't know anything about ignitions other than those I use/have used .
An old friend makes special purpose ignitions for multi cyclinder setups and also made some special single setups for me - I ran tuned exhaust nitro/alky on ignition. LOTS of power.
Based on what I learned from him and the info once provided by the designer of the Falcon stuff , as well as recommendations from 3W about certain ignitions they sell, I concluded that as well as providing the design voltage, I also needed to provide a power source which did not drop voltage upon demand .
So I use either 4.8 high output NIMH cells (small ones such as 1000-1500ma ) or a pair of 1100 A123.
The new ZDZ ignitions also tolerate 2, LiPo cells which deliver voltage at high amperage levels , so that the ignition "sees" the full voltage specified.
Some ignitions on low compression engines simply don't require higher power levels- I don't have any of these engines.
From running performance engines as a kid - I found that just because you don't hear a "miss" , it does not mean that the ignition is doing it's job as well as possible.
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Old 01-23-2009, 11:55 AM
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Re: A123 Batteries for Dummies.

Dick,
Do you see any problem using the A123's with analog servos? I have been using them as receiver packs with digital servos, but not analogs yet.
Travis
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Old 01-24-2009, 10:12 AM
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Re: A123 Batteries for Dummies.

Most of my servos are analog-
Ther is no problem -
I use servos shch as JR4721 /JRSport 126 etc, -so I cover the full price range of anlog types
Ditto for my digital servos. inexpensive as wel a high end.

I found thru some bench and field testing, that the JRSport 126 was as accurate (actually faster to center ) than digital servos costing 4 times as much!
The avg 6v output of the A123 works well with any of the fixed wing setups I have.
I don't use any "4.8 volt only " servos - why bother .
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Old 01-26-2009, 07:06 PM
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Re: A123 Batteries for Dummies.

http://blogs.edmunds.com/greencaradv...ies-in-us.html

disreguard this post until i can delete it.
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Old 01-26-2009, 07:11 PM
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Re: A123 Batteries for Dummies.

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What does any of that have to do with the subject?
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Old 01-26-2009, 07:39 PM
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Re: A123 Batteries for Dummies.

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What does any of that have to do with the subject?

sorry dick, i posted it in the wrong section. someone asked me about it earlier ill move it.
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