Originally Posted by ghoffman

I did the same test and got the same results. The wing and stab spars are conductive though.

Nice! It’s good to get confirmation. I’ll try those as well.

Prepping and installing control horns. I scruff the part that inserts I to the control surface with 220 followed by 100 grit then clean off with isopropyl alcohol in case the peel ply had some sort of mold release on it. Test fit the control horns with the ball links installed and try to get the center of the holes above the hinge line (control surfaces taped in place). I used 30 min epoxy, filled the control surface waist some epoxy and put a light coat on the horns themselves. Then clean up with isopropyl alcohol. I used to tape off, but I find this method easier for me.

Originally Posted by AKNick

60mm for the Laser, good to know. By "In the Right Place" are you saying it should be lower? Do you have a picture?

The other header option would be JMB as they apparently make a custom header for the GP76.

Here you go. The wide angle of the camera lens in my phone makes the header looks like it's perfectly in the center of the tunnel, but it's actually a little higher than center. Plenty of room for the large ProFlow that I am using-- and certainly good for a pipe.

You can also (somewhat) see how close the fuel nipple is to the left header, and maybe see the gaskets that I used to get a little extra space between the cylinder head and the header itself.

Originally Posted by RobertC

Here you go. The wide angle of the camera lens in my phone makes the header looks like it's perfectly in the center of the tunnel, but it's actually a little higher than center. Plenty of room for the large ProFlow that I am using-- and certainly good for a pipe.

You can also (somewhat) see how close the fuel nipple is to the left header, and maybe see the gaskets that I used to get a little extra space between the cylinder head and the header itself.

Nice, Thanks for the pics! Did you paint your wheel pants? Mine are white with a blue stripe.

No, mine were that color out of the box. I did get one of the first (maybe *the* first) from Tim... maybe they changed after that?

Originally Posted by ghoffman

90mm for the ARS

Actually Ghoffman is correct, 90mm, I just measured mine it is 90.

I stand corrected.

Changed out the servo wires to the tail with Hanson Hobbies 20AWG silicone wire.
Also used 1/8” and 1/4” expandable looming with marine heat shrink (adhesive type) on the ends.
I saw a post on social media with a guy that used AMASS MR-30 connectors for the servo wire connections in the tail. No need to use safety clips or bust off the locking tabs on the fancy skywing connectors. I am very pleased with the outcome.
I’ll terminate the receiver ends once I figure out where to put them.

Here are some pipe tunnel cover and canister mount items that come with the ARF.
Note the baffling they put into the tunnel. So if you run stock setup you have these two openings pre opened and a curved foam baffle to help direct the air out.
In my ARS they did this baffle in the front dump only. I’m thinking of doing this in the rear as well.

Here’s what’s included with the gear bag. Some 4” hard foam tires, with AWESOME stepped axles, and some pretty neat plywood blocks that hold the axles so the wheels are off the ground.

I’ll be using 4” SpotOn RC tires instead of the hard foam tires and omitting the wheel pants as the rocks here just eat them up unfortunately. Gotta bling the tires out if your pantless am I right?!? I’ll have to add a little spacer on the axel as these wheels are a bit skinnier and taller.

Nice work there, Model Looks great, Skywing seam to make some great stuff.

Like the Use of the MR30's

Originally Posted by The Hodge

Nice work there, Model Looks great, Skywing seam to make some great stuff.

Like the Use of the MR30's

Thanks! I have the MR30s on the 91 ARS, and I really enjoy using them instead of the servo connectors and locking clips. tempted to use them on the wings as well.

Yeah i think wing would works fine too, Like these over the Mpx unit. Sleek and simple.

Power box i think use the MR30 (Modified) on the wing connector harness.

Pretty neat unit. Butt $$$

I Do wonder how many Cycles the servo connectors are good for before they get loose or give poor contact?

Huh, I had no idea those existed in that configuration from somebody. The MR30's take a little effort to take apart, much much more than a standard servo connector.

I used the supplied servo leads that came with the 101, no issues. Also I used locking multi pin connectors for the 4 wing servos from Chief Aircraft.

Originally Posted by ghoffman

I used the supplied servo leads that came with the 101, no issues. Also I used locking multi pin connectors for the 4 wing servos from Chief Aircraft.

Someone told me the 100" airframes have 20AWG now, is this true?
I've seen a guy on FB that had an issue with an 89" and determined it was the oem lead to the tail. Probably a faulty crimp, but who really knows. I'd rather not risk it and up the wire size to help with the voltage drop to the tail. On my 91" ARS I kept the wings OEM, no problem.