I will never buy from aerobee's again. If you want to be treated as a valued customer try aztech.

I picked up an AB 540 edge profile. Build has went well so far. My mentor 22 should be here tomorrow and am really looking at getting this plane in the air.
JM

My problems were entirely based on the design of the airframe itself, and the low quality of the fit and finish. Had I called Aerobeez to complain about the slack covering job, what could/would have been done to make the experience better for me? Not much, I suspect. Had I called Aerobeez to point out that there was no tube in the fuse, I doubt you've got a warehouse full of tubed fuses waiting to swap out for anyone who notices this design flaw. What about the thin, unsupported ply sections in the nose of the plane? Again, until it breaks and is proven defective, I seriously doubt there's anything a manufacturer can or will do.

The wing tube "sleeve" in the fuse is only to guide the wing tube during wing installation. It is not a structural member. The wing tube loads are transferred to the fuse sides. In a profile type airframe, where the fuse sides are close together, there is no need for a sleeve for the wing tube. This is certainly not a design flaw.

Nose section not strong enough? I would say this is a design flaw as the engine vibrations can really shake things apart, and then there are the aerodynamic loads from the snaps, tumbles, etc.
I would hope that the mfg will improve the design in this area.

Originally Posted by airbike

The wing tube "sleeve" in the fuse is only to guide the wing tube during wing installation. It is not a structural member. The wing tube loads are transferred to the fuse sides. In a profile type airframe, where the fuse sides are close together, there is no need for a sleeve for the wing tube. This is certainly not a design flaw.

Holy crap! You just took the evolution of profile fuse design backward 10-15 years if you think I'm talking about a wing tube or socket... Fuse tubes are NOT wing tubes. Look at a set of plans from any modern high-performance profile. (Hell, look at the exposed tube on a Mojo ARF...) the best performing profiles (and most durable) all have one or more fiberglass tubes running the length of the fuse. It's got very little to do with a "wing tube" that everyone seems to be an expert on... Damn, one of the most durable, lightest, best flying removable-wing profiles I've ever flown has a pair of fuse tubes and NO WING TUBE AT ALL... Even my Sabre56 has quite a bit of fuse flex because of not having a tube in the fuse... No tube, no love!

- Case

Originally Posted by CanCanCase

Holy crap! You just took the evolution of profile fuse design backward 10-15 years if you think I'm talking about a wing tube or socket... Fuse tubes are NOT wing tubes. Look at a set of plans from any modern high-performance profile. (Hell, look at the exposed tube on a Mojo ARF...) the best performing profiles (and most durable) all have one or more fiberglass tubes running the length of the fuse. It's got very little to do with a "wing tube" that everyone seems to be an expert on... Damn, one of the most durable, lightest, best flying removable-wing profiles I've ever flown has a pair of fuse tubes and NO WING TUBE AT ALL... Even my Sabre56 has quite a bit of fuse flex because of not having a tube in the fuse... No tube, no love!

- Case

Here's what CanCan is talking about. The fuse tube is what makes GOOD profiles strong and a whole lot less prone to breaking behind the wing like the cheaper non dork resistant profiles.

CanCan you have repeatedly have bashed the company and it's products enough already. So why don't you take a vacation or get over yourself and move on.

those are called longerons.

I will support Case's opinion that the fuse isn't as strong as it should/could be. The thin plywood structure is strong enough for normal flight loads but mine buckled due to stresses from the stiff landing gear. It also suffered a bit from an inverted high speed low pass that went wrong. But it was easy to repair and flew just as good as ever. I recently killed my Redwing Yak for the final time by stalling it into the ground after the engine quit.

I just received my second one from Redwing because it's the best flying plane I've ever had. From the get go I will strengthen the fuselage by running ply doublers from the nose to the back of the wing on the lower part of the fuse. I ought to strip and recover it too, but probably won't.

Pros: easy to assemble, great flyer, inexpensive, looks good
Cons: weak fuselage, lousy covering material

I flew mine. Overall a good inexpensive plane. Yes the fuse is built very light, nothing like my OMP 80" kit, but its a fun plane and performs great. The Mintor is still on break in so I didn't want to hurt it. Hopefully the Mintor will come alive after a gallon or so. Right now on 30:1 dino, Once I get a little more time on it, I will switch to Stihl Ultra HP and tune the motor a bit more. Still on the rich side for safety.

If anyone needs a good set of used wings for the Aero beez/Redwing Yak 54 I got'em. The Fuse disintegrated on a harrier landing Bought a RW Sbach to replace it and stripped the fuse to re enforce and add a little glue to it.

Originally Posted by kwj48

Here's what CanCan is talking about. The fuse tube is what makes GOOD profiles strong and a whole lot less prone to breaking behind the wing like the cheaper non dork resistant profiles.

what kit is that im thinking about building a primo 60 or a mojo 60 with either a dle 20 or the evlouotion 15cc

Originally Posted by bbrown2828

what kit is that im thinking about building a primo 60 or a mojo 60 with either a dle 20 or the evlouotion 15cc

That looks like one of Ron Wilson's S'Bachs. They used to be kitted by The Balsa Store, but he won't do a run unless he's got 5 or 10 kits pre-ordered and pre-paid. You can contact TriFlyer 3D (that's Ron, the designer) and he'll sell you a VERY detailed set of builder's plans, complete with a materials list and templates to cut all the non-stick parts. He also designs his birds with a scratch builder in mind, so the cutting and effort to "make your own kit" is really very small. If you absolutely don't want to scratch from plans, I have an S'bach 55 and 65 kit sitting here that I could be talked out of, but don't expect any bargains when buying from my personal hoard of kits! ;-)

As for your other plan... a DLE20 is TOO HEAVY for either a Mojo60 or Primo60. If you want to build something for the DLE20, you really need to look at a Mojo65 which is no longer in production. There's a good build thread here at FG about a scratch built Mojo65. That's also another kit I've got hiding in my shop waiting for its turn on the assembly line.

The Evolution 15cc would be interesting, but I've been watching one run on a little pattern plane at our club field all month. He's having trouble getting it to stay tuned to run right, it slobbers a big gooey, oily mess, and really isn't enough power for a Mojo60 or Primo60... The engine of choice if you have to have IC on a Mojo is the Saito FA-1.00. My first Mojo65 flew great on the 1.00, and was off balance and flew for crap with the FG-20 I tried. Back to the 1.00, then sold it off... My current Mojo60 flies great on 6S/Ice100/Xoar 16x8 with about a 500kV motor...

-Case

now plans have changed looking at the wrongway lambach for the dle 20 i have already built a lamyak before so im sure the lambach is about the same i have also been looking at the ee60 from 3d or bust

I've got the WW 20cc LamBach on my board right now. Should have the fuse done tonight. The smaller LamYaks I've seen don't have removable wings, while all of the WWRC laminar winged variants (LamBach, LamYak, LamSuk) do. This makes sense since the WWRC versions tend to be larger birds.

HazzBro (Brian) designs some awesome slabs too. I love my EE60 (its the red slab in my AV) although I broke it in half at BeaverBro. (Well, not quite in half... It's a shining example of why profiles need a fiberglass tube or two in the fuse!!!) WrongWayRC is now kitting the EE series... Give him a bit of time to get everything updated on the website, and pick up both kits while you're shopping!

Ever since my AeroBeez (bad) experience, I just can't look at any ARF profile the same way. My WW50cc and WW20cc lammys will be at the AeroBeez MonsterFest in Eugene... I hope the AeroBeez gang brings a few profiles for demo...

- Case

Originally Posted by CanCanCase

That looks like one of Ron Wilson's S'Bachs. They used to be kitted by The Balsa Store, but he won't do a run unless he's got 5 or 10 kits pre-ordered and pre-paid. You can contact TriFlyer 3D (that's Ron, the designer) and he'll sell you a VERY detailed set of builder's plans, complete with a materials list and templates to cut all the non-stick parts. He also designs his birds with a scratch builder in mind, so the cutting and effort to "make your own kit" is really very small. If you absolutely don't want to scratch from plans, I have an S'bach 55 and 65 kit sitting here that I could be talked out of, but don't expect any bargains when buying from my personal hoard of kits! ;-)

As for your other plan... a DLE20 is TOO HEAVY for either a Mojo60 or Primo60. If you want to build something for the DLE20, you really need to look at a Mojo65 which is no longer in production. There's a good build thread here at FG about a scratch built Mojo65. That's also another kit I've got hiding in my shop waiting for its turn on the assembly line.

The Evolution 15cc would be interesting, but I've been watching one run on a little pattern plane at our club field all month. He's having trouble getting it to stay tuned to run right, it slobbers a big gooey, oily mess, and really isn't enough power for a Mojo60 or Primo60... The engine of choice if you have to have IC on a Mojo is the Saito FA-1.00. My first Mojo65 flew great on the 1.00, and was off balance and flew for crap with the FG-20 I tried. Back to the 1.00, then sold it off... My current Mojo60 flies great on 6S/Ice100/Xoar 16x8 with about a 500kV motor...

-Case

If you ever part with the MOJO 65, Ill pay cash...