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Re: Miro F3A
Rod,
I think I'm in love... I'll stay tuned, it'll be interesting to see what the stab position ends up being in comparison to other wide body designs. I've never spent a lot of time thinking about the design aspect of an F3A bird, but as my flying abilities slowly grow, and my understanding of aerodynamics increase, the "reasons" for the individual design details become more and more relevant. Thanks for taking us step by step. |
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Re: Miro F3A
Finished the final sand today. Now for brasso and wax. Will get it in the splitter plate this weekend. BTW the nose ring is the correct diameter for 3.25" truturn FAI spinner. Here is a thread that helped nail down the design www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5062356/tm.htm airfoil thickness is my only unknown at the moment. My last G202 had NACA 63A010 ie 10%at 35% chord and sped up too much in the down lines. I have an idea CPLR is using 15%-13% which is why I decided on that and for the profile drag. I suppose it will need to pitch more for the snaps though. However the reduced wing area/increased loading should help that. Am starting to think about wing/stab and rudder construction. I have CNC wire cutting and vacuum bagging and I will probably go for the CL stunt span wise coring. I would really like a painted wing as film wrinkles and I like to do airbrush graphics.
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Re: Miro F3A
Well here we are in the splitter plates. The plates are just the offcuts of the plug keel. The plugs still need a few more coats of wax. Now to start putting in the dams to give nice clean perimeters for the hatches and flange edges. Wood blocks and plenty of plastercine (modeling clay)for this job. The finish is acrylic laquer and as Mike Briggs pointed out it will get destroyed if I make the mold from polyester no mater how wuch wax and release I use. Actually I knew this from unfortunate experience. So the mold will be all epoxy. However I am using Nuplex R180 which is pretty cheap when buying 20ltr. For the actual fuselages I will use the best resin I can get from Adhesive technologies.
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Re: Miro F3A
Hi Rod,
I fly pattern over in OZ and am following this thread closely. Its great that you post plenty of pic's to show how you are doing things, I have never attempted to make a mould or do any type of fibreglassing because of my lack of knowledge in this area. I do have a Gallent Matrix I have had for a about 5 years, my first venture into the wide body fuselages that are now standard. I need to make a new canopy which came off in flight and got damaged, your thread has got me motivated to have a go at making a mold for a canopy. Anyway, hope all goes well with the project next week and please keep the pic's coming to show your progress!!! Thanks, |
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Joined Jan 2006
900 Posts
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Re: Miro F3A
Spocky,
Another option maybe see if Ewan Galloway has one or would mould you replacement. Contact details gallent@xtra.co.nz Cheers Alan Rod I'll talk to you when you are a little further down the track about details for my fuse and let you know what I intend to attach to it. |
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Re: Miro F3A
Hi Rod,
Thanks for the advice, I will probably use the Lost Foam system when I figure out what it is? LOL. Dont want to hijack your thread so I might start a new one? Alan, I have tried many times to contact Ewan over the past couple of months with no replies?? I have heard he is currently oversea's but not sure? Thanks, |
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Re: Miro F3A
The plugs are in the splitter plates and now get sealed in with plastercine. You can see the stages of the process here. A couple of simple tools make life alot easier. Dipping them in meths help smooth the plastercine off.
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Re: Miro F3A
Now for the registration buttons, and dams for a neat mold. Ive kept the buttons low as I am going to slide the two mold halves together as I lap join the fus wet in the mold. More on that later.
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Re: Miro F3A
After applying PVA release agent (wiped on with a piece of T shirt material), The gell coat is brushed on. This is epoxy mixed with microfibres and tinted with concrete tinter.(water based paint powder works well too). I am going to put glass rovings in the corners with the next coat of gell. It is going to get 3 coats of gell so Ive got a bit of leeway to sand the mold. (the plug got a bit wavy due to a bit of shrinkage and the high gloss black showing everything). I usually mold straight on the undercoat but I spent alot more time on this one.
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