Hello everyone,
Brand new to the forum. I've recently returned to a hobby that I enjoyed with my father some 35 years ago. I am a builder, although I am disappointed to see it is now cheaper to buy prefab than to build. All the same. I enjoy the building process. I have a few questions as the hobby has changed significantly in the past 35 years. I am hoping that some of you recent modeling veterans can shed some light on a few items.

#1. Everything was Nicad when I flew last. I am very confused by all of the different types and ratings of batteries out there. I will be flying Nitro and Gas, but I still need batteries for radios, ignition, and retracts. I have bought a couple of different batteries at this point, but I have much confusion about the chargers. I bought a cheapie charger at the hobby shop, but it doesn't seem to function correctly. Can anyone guide me on a reasonable charger for the types of batteries that I am likely to use for radio and engine equipment?

#2. I've finished my warm-up builds as I have built some classics from my past. Namely a midwest 40 size sweet and low stick, a Sig Midstar 40, and a vintage Top Flite 60 size P47. I'm preparing to move into the giant scale arena as I have a midwest AT 6 NIB that is about to hit the building board. I'm concerned about the AT 6. I'm confident that I can build it, but many of the reviews on it are negative. Citing excessive weight and stall characteristics. It seems gasoline engines have come a long way since the time of the quadra. I've installed a DLE 20 RE in my 60 series TF P 47. Does anyone have any recommendations for the 82" AT 6? As best as I can determine it should come in around 15-16 lbs.

Many thanks and Merry Christmas!

Well, if your having problems, you should take it back to the hobby shop,, they should help you and if the sold you a bad charger they should replace it..

Other wise describe what's going on, type of batter pack, which charger etc. , we can probably help

Way back in the day,, late 90's I had a Midwest T6,, mine had a quadra 40,, 40cc gas,, flew the plane great,, if I were to build on today, I'd use a DLE35ra

good luck

Well, i did figure out the battery charger situation. Nothing quite like rereading the instructions to clear things up. Thanks for the feedback on the engine size for my AT 6 project. I just opened the box yesterday and became very excited to get started on this kit.
I have an additional question. Would one 2400ma 7.4 v Lipo battery be enough to power a DLE 20, 6 standard servos, and a set of electric retracts? It would seem that i could use a Y connector to slave all of those systems into one battery. This would certianly save weight.

i framed this back in 80's. Finish and maiden in October 2020. This is a good flying plane, no bad habits. YS120 is perfect.

A very nice plane. Thank you for sharing. Do you mind if i ask how much it weighed?

I built mine many years ago and flew it with an OS 1.08. Marginal power at best. I think mine was about 16 lbs with 1 lb of lead shot epoxied in the spinner. I would recommend coring out the tail surfaces to eliminate as much weight back there as possible. I would also pick through the supplied balsa and replace any very heavy pieces. A lot of it was pretty poor.

Originally Posted by Cardiacrn9

Well, i did figure out the battery charger situation. Nothing quite like rereading the instructions to clear things up. Thanks for the feedback on the engine size for my AT 6 project. I just opened the box yesterday and became very excited to get started on this kit.
I have an additional question. Would one 2400ma 7.4 v Lipo battery be enough to power a DLE 20, 6 standard servos, and a set of electric retracts? It would seem that i could use a Y connector to slave all of those systems into one battery. This would certianly save weight.

That's a lot for one pack IMO, with that DLE20 up front your going to need about 2lbs of lead,, might as well mount extra batteries up there

Personally I'd run a separate pack for the retracts and then run a IBEC off the RX pack,, I'd run 2 A123 packs myself

That's a lot of plane for a 20, I fear you'll quickly find out it's not enough power,, it may fly it,, but you won't have any reserve power,, you'll be pushing that 20 full throttle continuously

like I said,, mine had a quadra 40 and I had the elevator servos mounted in the tail,, it balanced without extra lead,, just battery placement,, flew it around 1/2 throttle most of the time unless in a climb

good luck

+1, With scale only 4 me 100% on this. I would always go with a bit heavier and / or more powerful engine in a warbird that is going to need additional weight for balance. Larger engine means a larger diameter prop that always seems to help the overall airframe performance. I have repowered quite a few older airplanes over the years and every one performed better with the larger prop.

Originally Posted by Cardiacrn9

I'm confident that I can build it, but many of the reviews on it are negative. Citing excessive weight and stall characteristics.

Regarding stall characteristics, I always kept up good speed in flight and never had problems. I do recall a couple occasions seeing guys trying to mush their planes around, and both planes tip stalled and crashed. Just be mindful that it isn't a floaty aerobat; keep decent speed when flying.

For landing, I kept a bit of speed until the mains touched down. I remember always really trying to grease the landings because otherwise the plane would porpoise. At least the plane I built was not one for three-point landings.

I used a YS 120AC, which provided good power and sounded nice. I believe I needed about 12 ounces of lead in the nose though.

Overall, I liked the plane. It looked really nice when having the wheels up doing low passes, doing Cuban 8s, etc. My wife bought the Robart retracts as a gift and still says she liked it the best of the planes I've had.

Dan

Ok, so DLE 35 RA it is. The plans look like it will fit if I eliminate the motor box. I see the plans call for down and right thrust on the engine. Unfortunately, it doesn't appear to be built into the firewall. Is it ok to put spacers behind standoffs?

I got a really GREAT deal on this kit on eBay. Got the kit and a used set of Robarts for the plane, and a fiberglass wheel well upgrade for $350! I see Robart makes an electric conversion kit to upgrade the set of retracts that I have. Does anyone have any experience converting pneumatics to electric?

slightly under sixteen pounds

Originally Posted by Cardiacrn9

A very nice plane. Thank you for sharing. Do you mind if i ask how much it weighed?

I have built and flown two of these. First one I did not put flaps on it and it was a bear to land as you had to keep the speed up. Put flaps on the second one and it was much more stable on approach. Had a Supertigre 2500 on them and that was more than enough power. As mentioned before keep the tail as light as possible. I have a soft spot for t-6's as I owned and flew an SNJ-6 for 8 years. I have a CARF T-6 in the shop right now. Trying to find the time to finish it.

Originally Posted by Cardiacrn9

Ok, so DLE 35 RA it is. The plans look like it will fit if I eliminate the motor box. I see the plans call for down and right thrust on the engine. Unfortunately, it doesn't appear to be built into the firewall. Is it ok to put spacers behind standoffs??

I wouldn't use washers under the standoffs on a DLE35 to create offset because the lugs are not evenly spaced top and bottom. You might put stresses on the lugs using washers due to uneven forces caused by the spacings. I'd just make a thrust wedge from wood or other suitable material and attach it to the firewall. Nothing wrong with using washers to spread the load on the firewall as long as all 4 are the same thickness.

Speaking of flaps, Does anyone have any links or threads related to creating split flaps where none are designed? I've never built flaps into a model that wasn't designed with them.

Originally Posted by Cardiacrn9

Speaking of flaps, Does anyone have any links or threads related to creating split flaps where none are designed? I've never built flaps into a model that wasn't designed with them.

this thread is still active so if you post I will answer.

Joe


https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-...flaps-arf.html