If you're taking suggestions for the prototype, I like the dual spring type tail steering myself and would consider changing mine to that design. Thoughts?

The tailwheel employs a tiller for steering, very positive. A small length of threaded rod and a ball link drive the tiller on this really cool carbon tailwheel

Maybe this one will stay working when you taxi it Mr. One Inch

Originally Posted by Aeromodeler

If you're taking suggestions for the prototype, I like the dual spring type tail steering myself and would consider changing mine to that design. Thoughts?

Im with you I had no luck with the tiller setup myself. Aeroworks has a setup that is light , inexpensive, a works well.

MODE 1, great tip. Lately I have been using threadlocker on the collar where it contacts the axel with success.

Guys, I'm with ya on the tailwheel steering. I'm not completely sold on the tiller method. That may be changed,,,,or a DYI.

I have been using the tiller method on my planes for quite some time and find it to be a more positive steering method.
And it is fewer parts... no springs or other gizmos that can fall off, break, get twisted, ripped out by tough weeds...

Good point Edge540T Flyer, if that is your real name Dale.

I've found that when it comes to aircraft design, the fewer parts and the simplest, most direct method always works better. I think that the problem with the tiller design is that it needs a hard-point built into the rudder. The stub loosens up in the balsa and gives you problems. I blame Bin Laden.

Originally Posted by DEVZAK9

Maybe this one will stay working when you taxi it Mr. One Inch

Ha! Devan called you....1 inch.

I've been flying the OMP Extra 300 Prototype for over a year with the same tiller rudder steering and it is still just like new. I fly on both grass and paved runway. Kenn I would not have the factory change it. Build tread looks great! This is going to be a very nice plane.

Selfportrait, if thats Your real name, Kenn...
If you change anything, I would make sure there is a hardpoint in the bottom of the rudder to epoxy in the ball link for the tiller.

Originally Posted by N726AC

Gotta let the hot air out.

Hey, ya going to need a longer thread Tony to do THAT right!
(Yes- the lazy way to subscribe! I'm making my way to the most recent. All the nouns are slowing me down.)

Originally Posted by selfportrait

Ha! Devan called you....1 inch.

Hehehe,, yes he did. Wanna explain that to the unwashed?

Originally Posted by Edge540T_Flyer

I have been using the tiller method on my planes for quite some time and find it to be a more positive steering method.
And it is fewer parts... no springs or other gizmos that can fall off, break, get twisted, ripped out by tough weeds...

Tiller design is sweet too when you have to disassemble the tail for transport.
To reconnect you just line em back up, close your eyes and push- How simple is that?

He guys, I omitted one really important step. Please grind a small flat on the axles where the outer wheel collar set screw contacts the axle. Keeps ya from playing like a Warbird circle flier!

Tip of the day,,,,,, Please do not grind a flat for the inner set screw,,,,,

Hehehe,, yes he did. Wanna explain that to the unwashed?

Spot landin contest last weekend at TC3D and he made it within "1 inch" of the mark so now his name is Mr. 1 inch

Hey Tony i get to fly all the other EG planes you have so when do i get a turn on this one????? lol im just messin your doing a great job on the thread keep it up!!!!