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Old 08-13-2019, 03:19 PM
danimach is offline
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Originally Posted by Fly2XS View Post
Congratulations on the maiden flight! Now you can dress it up and make it your own!
Thanks! I will probably get some graphics from callie. Not sure yet. I like how you did yours. Looks really good.
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Old 09-16-2019, 01:31 AM
Daorge is offline
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New Wing Design

Hello,
got mine last week, and looks like there is a new wing design all Servos and linkage are now hiden in the wings, no more ca hinges, flaps and ailerons now with nylon hinges.

Regards Gerald
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Old 09-16-2019, 02:06 PM
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I have their 20cc J3 Cub and the ailerons are also like this new design. Looks good, but I hate how it functions. Using Hitec D485 servos, the linkage is on the farthest hole out on the servo horn, just so the rod does not bind against wood. The ailerons would not center at all, and all my early flights I was fighting the roll. I just couldn't fly level. I changed to Hitec 5645 servos and it is better but still not perfect. I think by going with such a small control horn on the surface and the larger horn on the servo, there is not enough leverage to bring the aileron back to center from each direction. Hopefully others have better luck. I really want to buy their new FW190, but the design is the same.
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Old 09-16-2019, 02:50 PM
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That's also a formula for surface flutter. The geometry is exactly opposite what it should be. It is purely a cosmetic choice.
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Old 12-18-2019, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mmmccull View Post
I have their 20cc J3 Cub and the ailerons are also like this new design. Looks good, but I hate how it functions. Using Hitec D485 servos, the linkage is on the farthest hole out on the servo horn, just so the rod does not bind against wood. The ailerons would not center at all, and all my early flights I was fighting the roll. I just couldn't fly level. I changed to Hitec 5645 servos and it is better but still not perfect. I think by going with such a small control horn on the surface and the larger horn on the servo, there is not enough leverage to bring the aileron back to center from each direction. Hopefully others have better luck. I really want to buy their new FW190, but the design is the same.
I didn’t like the weird geometry the plans call for regarding the aileron linkages. Your pic of the page out of the manual shows the detail but not a closeup. While it might work, I hated it enough to simplify mine per the pics, which is more conventional and what most of us are accustomed to. And I don’t mind the linkages being exposed...who sees them ever anyway, lol. The pics show small clearances before the clevises might hit the wing, but due to the small aileron deflections called for, the clevises never hit the wing. BTW I got my Reliant in July and just began assembly a few weeks ago.
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Old 12-18-2019, 08:07 AM
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These type of planes is more rudder work flying then ailerons. Don’t need a whole ton of throw in the ailerons. I do put differential in the ailerons. Hardly any down and all up aileron. It seems to help a lot with this type of plane,cub,etc.
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Old 12-20-2019, 06:45 PM
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Can someone tell me the purpose, other than cosmetic, for the black plastic casing that fits over the tail wheel strut? Might leave it off since it looks clunky to me.

Also how did you guys slip the wheel fairing/pants over the metal LG? I picture mine cracking if I force it over.
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Old 12-20-2019, 06:54 PM
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They're really tight, if you're careful you won't crack em, if you do it will be the ends that are covered with the fairings. One thing I had to do is replace the landing gear block, on a not so perfect landing it came apart, I ground out all the original block and made one out of 1/4" plywood, been stout ever since. It's one of my favorite planes, have a Saito 2.20 with CH Igniton on it, it's great! The tailwheel thing is purely cosmetic, up to you.
Tom
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Old 12-20-2019, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maukaonyx View Post
Can someone tell me the purpose, other than cosmetic, for the black plastic casing that fits over the tail wheel strut? Might leave it off since it looks clunky to me.

Also how did you guys slip the wheel fairing/pants over the metal LG? I picture mine cracking if I force it over.
I lubed mine up with dawn dish soap. Worked like a charm.
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Old 12-21-2019, 12:22 AM
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Thanks for both responses, supermod56 and danimach!

I bought a VVRCClassic 40cc twin for this plane. Thinking now it might be too much power and weight. Might just go with a DLE-35RA and save the twin for something else. But I am undecided and will think on it some more.
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Old 12-21-2019, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supermod56 View Post
They're really tight, if you're careful you won't crack em, if you do it will be the ends that are covered with the fairings. One thing I had to do is replace the landing gear block, on a not so perfect landing it came apart, I ground out all the original block and made one out of 1/4" plywood, been stout ever since. It's one of my favorite planes, have a Saito 2.20 with CH Igniton on it, it's great! The tailwheel thing is purely cosmetic, up to you.
Tom

Hello Tom!
I have a Saito 220 with CH Ignition conversion as well that I have not tried yet. How does it work for you?
I put a new Saito FG40 in my Stinson and I rarely fly it over 1/2 throttle. I can get nearly an hour on 16 ounces of gasoline.
Scott
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Old 12-21-2019, 01:41 PM
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It's awesome, still using glow fuel, but with the ignition it gets about 30% better economy, 24 oz tank lasts around 15 min. No vibration whatsoever, reliability is great. I ran it on straight alcohol/oil and it ran good on the top end, midrange suffered a bit.
Tom
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Old 12-22-2019, 04:44 PM
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Ok, I got the pants/fairings slid over the aluminum LG by just forcing it over carefully. No prob. Next question is how’d you guys get the fairing to sit flat on the LG while aligning the strut holes AND the wheel axle plate? Seems to be nothing fits flat to each other and there is gonna be a whole lot of flexing and cracking plastic and fiberglass when I tighten any screws/bolts!
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Old 12-22-2019, 04:54 PM
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I enlarged the holes for the bolts on the struts, bolt the strut mount on, then the wheel end, it goes together pretty easy, the wheel pants go inside the fairings, which are flexible enough to go flat against the fuse. The wheel pant is not glued to the fuse fairings. Hope that helps

Tom
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Old 12-22-2019, 05:23 PM
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Here’s how bad mine fits....see pics. If I align strut holes of fairing with those on the metal LG per pic #1, the axle hole is far off per the second pic...1/2” too high from bottom edge of the pant opening, and about 1/2” off line! Conversely, if I make the bottom of the metal LG fit to the bottom of the FG wheel pants, the strut holes are 1/2” off ! Crappy parts fit. I think my options are to relocate the strut holes in the FG pants such that the bottom of the metal LG snugs up to the bottom of the wheel pant opening, or drill new strut holes in the metal LG....I think this latter option is the cleaner one.
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