So to keep things in the shop moving between new builds we picked up a first generation AJ Laser 230z air frame in the Patriot scheme at a very good price. This air frame has sat for a while and looks to have suffered a couple less than perfect bumpy landings. All in all it looks to be in fair shape. It currently has a DA 100 and K&S 86S cans with smooth headers that appear to be only a 70mm drop instead of the 90mm. The DA has something wrong with it, clanking when I move it through compression. Out she goes....

I have decided to document this repair/rebuild in hopes to help folks that haven't done much of this, have some great insight from other flyers and pretty much try to inspire folks not to give up on an air frame too quickly. I will be posting more pics as I go.

This Laser will be upgraded to a very close to new DA 120 that needs a home, new flex headers and either K&S 3086 or Jtec canister mufflers. Hitec 7954's on the wings, 7955's on throttle and stabs and a single 7950 on the rudder. I have these kicking around in good shape so I figured I'd use them here. Futaba will be the radio of choice and will be setup with a single receiver.

I will be removing the stars from this scheme and covering all yellow with Monokote Sky Blue. This will make it "my" colors and give it some personal touch. Many more photos to follow as we unwrap and dig into this project!

First thing's to fix is the entire canister tunnel needs a rebuild as well as the starboard cowling mount. Pretty much going to strip the cover off the bottom 3 feet back if not the whole bottom. Also need to open up and repair the Starboard side bottom of stab. Old repair but I want to make it better.

Removed the covering around the canister tunnel. I used a heat gun and carefully heating it up while I pulled so I didn't leave any residue behind. If you don't use heat and just pull you will be screwed by any leftover residue. All you can do at that point is smear it around with acetone.

There are some spaces around the tunnel that I decided to fit some balsa into. This made it so much stronger. The broken sheeting is easily fixed with some glue and sanding. I am thinking about making new panels out of stronger ply and installing 6/32 hold down bolts. I am trying to make everything stronger. I know this air frame will need some nose weight anyhow so I am not afraid to really bulk stuff up and make it stronger. I am really excited about this air frame so I will take the time now so I don't have to worry later.

You’re spot on with applying heat when removing old covering. If you do have it separate and leave some spots of color behind, simply take a new piece of covering, iron it over the residue, let it cool and then remove it without any heat. This will usually lift the residue with the new covering. Might have to repeat to get it all.

That's a great tip!!! Thanks. Didn't know that would work.

Look's like you have it well underway and it don't look to bad.

It really isn't too bad at all. The previous owner had a couple rough landing but the field they were flying at is very short with corn stalk at both ends. They did a good job getting this bird in there. The wings look to be mint. I have a brand new cowl in a box. Everything I've heard about the AJ Laser 230z is nothing short of stellar!

More repairs:

Turns out somebody broke the servo mount screws off in one of the stabs. Going to need to open it up to fix this. Bummer but won't take too long.

I've decided on 1/8" ply plates for the canister tunnel. Will make it much stronger. Need to build it out to install the support rails. I have the option now of installing 6-32 socket heads which I like to hold the plates on. This may be an option or socket head self-tappers.

Looking good so far. I had a hard landing last year with mine and was able to repair it with ease, much like what you are doing. One thing I will recommend you to do is if you have the rearmost opening in the fuselage cut out for the can tunnel (I assume you will since you're using canisters) then the lip all around it is just balsa, I would brush on epoxy to reinforce this area as I've cracked mine multiple times from handling and lost a section of covering this weekend. It's a good way to add a little insurance

Will do and thanks for the heads up!! I may reinforce it more if I can.

As express noted add a little more lip on all the openings that you can, they don't have much from the factory for the covering to adhere to. On all the arf's I have started running a small bead of Gorilla around them on the inside edge, then trim with an exacto after curing, I guess ca could be used but I really hate the fumes. I am loving my 105 Laser, just a fantastic design.

Glad you guys are giving me the input here. I will buildup the s&%t out of it! I'm thinking I could come up with something with 1/32 ply and balsa that would look clean but not add too much weight. I also want to incorporate some pressure bars to help draw the air out so this may be part of it.

Something I did on my 123" Laser to help draw out the air from the tunnel. Aluminum siding trim material, cut to fit and epoxied in place. Lightweight and inexpensive.

That is a sweet idea! I never would have thought of that. I am eyeballing the 115 in the reflex scheme for a later, down the road purchase. Really eyeballing it.....

I did a lip for my Valach dual exhaust with Darice foam. Super easy and quick.
There are many ways to get the end results, hopefully we are making you think, at least giving some ideas.

I use Darice craft foam everywhere and all the time. I will be baffling this Laser with it once i get the new cowl mounted. I use it for "beds" for receivers, fuel tanks. I use it to make custom wire holders. It's great stuff!!