Biffy like!!!

Now back to assembly, since my servos were not here I went on to landing gear. Very simple, nice design here and the directions are good. I pretty much followed them verbatim, the only thing I can add is that when inserting the plywood block in the wheel pant, I like to make sure they are in exactly the same spot in each pant. I use my GP cutting matt with the measurement lines, I align the pant and then put the block inside, this gets it pretty much the same for each pant.
Jeff

Now take the pant and dremel a slot for the it to fit over the axle. Then the directions have you take an axle, wheel, collar and lock nut. I ground a small flat spot on the outer portion of the axle, this for the set screw on the collar. Put the tire on the axle, then the collar but do not tighten. Take the gear leg, each leg will go into the plane with the more angled portion of the mounting flat facing the tail. Put the axle on the leg with the lock nut just aobut two turns to hold it. Then slide the pant over the axle between the leg and the fixed spacer on the axle and tighten the lock nut to desired strength.
Jeff

Git er' Dun .

Now slit the covering at the front near bottom of the fuse for the gear to slide into the fuse. Align the gear over the holes and insert the 3mm phillips head bolts. I also put some medium temperature blue thread lock on the 3mm bolts, then tighten to satisfaction. I then hold the fuse level and align my wheel pants to desired angle.
Jeff

This thing could be done in one session. The problem is I had appointments yesterday and today, but tomorrow should be better so I am hoping to really punch out some work. Plus my servos showed up today.
Jeff

OK, now we mount the motor. Step 10 on page 8 of the instructions gives good detail on this, I just want to emphasize that mounting the motor before gluing the engine box on the fuse cannot be stressed enough. Makes things much easier, other than that the directions are quite good and detailed in this step. Once you have the motor mounted hang the box on the front bulkhead and then the side triangular stabilizing mounts and you have a motor mounted.
Jeff

The horizontal stabilizer and elevator are next. You begin by opening the covering at the stab slot. I always leave just a bit of covering to iron to the inside. Next YOU MUST INSTALL THE ELEVATOR FIRST INTO THE SLOT. Install it just like the directions say, then slide it to the back of the slot and install the horizontal. The horizontal has a notch on the leading edge in the middle of the stab, push that to the front of the slot. Next, as you can see in the second pic, I use a ruler to align it symetrically. I found that the trailing edge of the stab had 7 11/16" of stab exposed, yours may vary, the important thing is to get the same on both sides. The instructions tell you to put the wings on and align the horizontal with the wings. I did this, but to make things easier I show my pictures with just the CF wing tube. It all comes out the same and my horizontal aligned with no adjustment.
Jeff

Now to finish the tail section. Install the vertical stabilizer and just be sure it is square before CAing. Now the tailwheel, it is a straight forward installation and not much I can add. I did grind flat spots for all the collars and added thread lock. Rudder is just another CA hinge installation. Then install the elevator control horn and servo. I pretty much did exactly what the instructions call for, I am using a HS65MG (mandatory) on the elevator (and rudder for that matter).
Jeff

EFRC has elected to include CF rod (.060) for support of the tail. I show how I mounted mine, it is the same as the instructions. I did have to trim mine about an inch for some reason, but check yours before doing any trimming. I also ground points on my CF rod via a drum sander on my drill press. This is my preference and not necessary, it just made it easier to push into the wood. I also have some pictures of how I ran my elevator servo wire/extension. I used a 24" extension and I was concerned the wire might bounce into the rudder cables. Therefore, I glued a 3/16" sq. balsa stick between the former where the cable housings are mounted and the former just ahead of it (which is the former just aft of the depron air deflector). This stick only serves to keep the wire held above the pull pull cables. I also made some small balsa guides for my wire as it comes into the hatch area. This is not necessary, just my personal way of running wiring. EFRC gives you the freedom to input some of your own creativeness on this area. The other thing I do even on my giant planes, is anytime I have a servo wire/extension connection I use dental floss to tie them together. Since this elevator extension is not one that I will typically clip and unclip (like an aileron extension) it is better to tie them with dental floss or similar material of your choice.
Jeff

Install the rudder horn just like the manual says, no tricks to add here. Now install the easy connectors on the servo arm and put the rigging coupler in it and extend out the other side about 1/8". The rudder pull pull system is like any that you may have installed before. If you have never installed a pull pull system I will explain in detail. First separate your cables and we will work with one at a time. Make a slit in the covering back under the horizontal where the guides exit flush with the fuse. Thread your cable thru toward the front. I use music wire with a 90 degree bend in the end to reach back into the fuse and grab the cable and bring it forward, then thru the depron guide and up to the rudder servo. Next take one of the silver crimps (they look like a bushing as they are about 1/16" ID and 3/8" long) and put it over the cable near the servo. Then take one of the rigging couplers and thread the cable thru the eyelet and back thru the crimp and let it extend past the crimp about 1/8". When satisfied use pliers to squash the crimp and secure the cable from moving. Make sure everything is centered and go to the horn end, thread the crimp on then take the cable thru the horn's eyelet and back thru the crimp, there will be several inches excess, pull the cable taunght and flatten the crimp. Repeat for the other cable.
Jeff

Now to the cowling. This used to be a step that scared me as I always seemed to be offset when done. However, I have learned to take time and align it up then drill holes. So, get the masking tape out and lets put tape where the 4 holes will be drilled for the cowl secure points. I do this so I can make marks on the tape to help me pinpoint my drill hole. I like to make a horizontal line extending from the point where I will drill the hole so I have it located vertically, then a vertical line so I have the hole located horizontally. The horizontal line can be made now because it simply will show the hole location in a vertical sense, this can be made with the cowl off as you just need to make a line extended from where you want your hole to be drilled with regard to the airframe's plywood. Make sense? OK, lets fit the cowl on and align it, then fit the spinner on and make sure it is where you want it. Once you are happy that the cowl is perfect, tape masking tape and secure the cowl in place so it cannot move. Now with reference to the lines you made you know where to drill. This is a measure 10 times drill once operation.
Jeff

The last part is your own, radio setup. I followed the EFRC manual for initial throws etc. Here are some pictures on how I located my equipment.
Jeff

We are done with assembly, time for the flight test. My balance is about 4.5 and that is just a little forward but not bad. I will move it back at some point but I am having a range issue with my Berg receiver so my initial flights are not enough to comment further on the plane. I will say this, when I am getting full control the airplane responds very crisp to input on all three axis. I will try another receiver and hopefully that will take care of my reduced range. The overall quality of this arf meets or exceeds typical Extreme Flight products. If you are contemplating this plane you will happy with its quality. It is obvious that there has been much thought put into the lightening of the plane. I am running the following:
rudder and elevator - HS65MG
ailerons - HS65
Torque 2814/820
Airboss 45A ESC
Flightpower 4 cell 2170mah lipo
APC 12 X 6E prop
This power combo is the EFRC package, it is excellent power (unlimited vertical) and the RTF weight is 2lb 13oz.
Jeff

Some first flight shots.
Jeff