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Old 12-24-2006, 02:23 PM
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PINEAPPLE WEDNESDAY
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Re: Cans or Not

what about a set of these cans?
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Old 12-24-2006, 02:48 PM
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Re: Cans or Not

those straps are in a bind
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Old 12-24-2006, 03:31 PM
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balsa, glue & gas
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Re: Cans or Not

In that installation I'm lead to believe any vibration could cause serious complications.
No doubt a SMOKIN' set too!
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Old 12-24-2006, 04:24 PM
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Re: Cans or Not

Did you try using a ball end hex wrench for the header bolt?
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Old 12-24-2006, 07:44 PM
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Re: Cans or Not

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeUm View Post
Did you try using a ball end hex wrench for the header bolt?
The clearance is so short- you can't load the bolt into the hole through the flange of the header. A 3/8 bolt possibly but the flange is 1/8" so - that is where the problems start.
The header bends into the area you use to put the bolt through.
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Old 12-25-2006, 10:54 AM
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Re: Cans or Not

For Christmas today I got my mtw cans and DA 100, all I need now is the new comp arf 2.6m 260 to put it all in.
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Last edited by snapplane; 12-25-2006 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 12-27-2006, 02:49 PM
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balsa, glue & gas
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Re: Cans or Not

Quote:
Originally Posted by MERCURY DAYDREAM View Post
The clearance is so short- you can't load the bolt into the hole through the flange of the header. A 3/8 bolt possibly but the flange is 1/8" so - that is where the problems start.
The header bends into the area you use to put the bolt through.
Here is a picture for the thousand words.
Trust me - there is only room doe sweat and tears between the two. The "threaded stud" is the only solution - I could think of.
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Old 12-28-2006, 08:47 PM
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Re: Cans or Not

Daydream, on occasion I've used a Dremel to cut some length off the business end of an allen wrench, for problem areas just like this one.
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Old 12-29-2006, 08:56 AM
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Re: Cans or Not

Quote:
Originally Posted by shoey721 View Post
Daydream, on occasion I've used a Dremel to cut some length off the business end of an allen wrench, for problem areas just like this one.
Thanks for the helpful hint - but you are missing the main problem - you can not put ANY useable length allen screw into that hole of the flange! Review the picture and realize the header is in the way. What have you guys who have used the headers before done in this situation? My problem is resolved as explained earlier but for future insight...

Maybe this picture will help everyone understand what I'm trying to say?
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Old 12-29-2006, 11:15 PM
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Re: Cans or Not

Quote:
Originally Posted by MERCURY DAYDREAM View Post
Thanks for the helpful hint - but you are missing the main problem - you can not put ANY useable length allen screw into that hole of the flange! Review the picture and realize the header is in the way. What have you guys who have used the headers before done in this situation? My problem is resolved as explained earlier but for future insight...

Maybe this picture will help everyone understand what I'm trying to say?
I had the same problem. The only solution I could come up with was using a stud too, but I opted to scrap the whole header/canister and order the stock DA muffler for my AW 260. I didn't want to keep fiddling with this bolt for the life of the plane. I am curious if anyone has another solution though.
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Old 12-30-2006, 09:14 AM
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Re: Cans or Not

Well hopefully with the lock washer and blue Loctite will assure this install will only be a story to tell and not a continual maintenance problem. I just went to the Loctite web site and it looks like the Loctite will not be contributing much if temperatures exceed 300o. Interesting the Loctite RED states it is high temp but doesn't give a freking range!

BLUE http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=153
Locks threaded fasteners against vibration loosening
Ideal for nut and bolt applications 1/4" to 3/4" (6mm to 20mm)
Prevents threads from rusting and leaking
Removable with hand tools for easy disassembly
Temperature range: -65 degrees to 300 degrees Fahrenheit (-54 degrees to 149 degrees Celsius)


RED
OEM specified as 271
High temperature, high strength for heavy duty applications
Designed for larger fasteners 3/8" to 1" (9.5mm to 25mm)
Locks studs, bushings and large fasteners against vibration loosening
Strengthens slip and light press fits
Removable with heat and hand tools


Does anyone know the normal operating temp. for a DA50?

http://www.loctite.com
Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?

A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material
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Old 12-30-2006, 05:15 PM
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Re: Cans or Not

I use the white High Temp Loctite on the exhaust. It looks like toothpaste sorta. I'd suggest this would be ok on your stud and hex nut if that's the way you want to go. Good Luck!
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Old 12-30-2006, 11:27 PM
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Re: Cans or Not

Quote:
Originally Posted by shoey721 View Post
I use the white High Temp Loctite on the exhaust. It looks like toothpaste sorta. I'd suggest this would be ok on your stud and hex nut if that's the way you want to go. Good Luck!
Where are they selling the white and exactly what name is used?
White is not even listed on the Loctite website as High Temp Loctite!?
Thanks for the help!
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Old 12-30-2006, 11:45 PM
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Re: Cans or Not

Merc, I use hi-temp RTV(orange). Let it cure for a day or so and you wont have any problems. I would be willing to bet that you would be OK anyway using the stud and nut. I would rather do that anyday rather that threading bolts into aluminum threads. You are much less likely to damage the threads that way. I would probably replace the other one with a stud also.
Brian
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Old 12-31-2006, 01:24 AM
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Re: Cans or Not

I have always been a fan of a nice set of cans.
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