I have searched but have not located a Forum or Thread dedicated to 3W engines. Does one exist?

They are perfect German engineering and have no issues or problems,so no threads about them.

Originally Posted by closetguy

They are perfect German engineering and have no issues or problems,so no threads about them.

I don’t know of a single thread dedicated to 3W in general but there have been many over the years that covered certain 3W models. Try some searches for what you are looking for or come back here with the model #.

Thanks all, and I appreciate the humor as well

I am not looking into a Specific model, just more of a general knowledge thread. Including info on level of support given we have only one US distributor starting in 2013 I believe.

I’m interested in experiences both good or bad that people have had getting service, especially under warranty.

Have had engines from the 55xi up to the 157 CSTS. My faves are in the 100/106 size. 3Ws got a real bad rap a long time ago, with ignitions failing. I have had 2 fail in 19 years running them.
If you follow the instructions in how to mount the ignitions, you will have great service of the ignition unit. Dont dare tell him that a China ignition is better than the 3W unit. Be prepared for WW3, 4, 5 and 6 if you do.

They take a long time to break in, but after 15 gallons, they are done breaking in. Dont get them hot, during the first few runs, they will quit, and possibly you will lose your bird. It happened to me, once! The tolerances are tighter than the DA engines. Gerhard had an independent study done probably 15-18 years ago on the 100s. The 3W come back .010" tighter than the DA, in every critical measurement taken.

Gerhard has always done me well on service. I crashed and split the case on my 106. Called him and told him what happened, he said send it to me, I'll make it new again. He did, and it still pulls stumps.

I had no idea those were still on the market.

Also, too. If you are running the Tillotson carb, and it has real long needles, you can cut the ends off, and make a new slot.

Originally Posted by Bunky F. Knuckle

Also, too. If you are running the Tillotson carb, and it has real long needles, you can cut the ends off, and make a new slot.

Gerhard did that for me, works well.

I have a blue head 106 that I bought used in '05(?), still runs like a champ. Gerhard has serviced it a couple of times but a strong quiet engine.

15 gals to break in? I just bought a red head 275. Sounds like I better run it on the rich side for a while. What’s a good temp for break in and after? Anybody know?

In 10 years, I have never seen one in person.

I like the way they sound,you can always pick out the 3W when flying.

Originally Posted by A.Delaney

15 gals to break in? I just bought a red head 275. Sounds like I better run it on the rich side for a while. What’s a good temp for break in and after? Anybody know?

If you call up the G man he will give you that temp answer to your question.

Old school answer,,, set the needles per the manual, start it up and tune for a descent transition on the ground,,, Do Not tune for max rpm on the ground. Tune for for that area of the High side of rich as it breaks into that clean running sound and Go Fly.

Leave the needles there for a few gallons of 32:1. As the engine breaks in, it will go rich therefore little tweeks on the needles will be required. Short bursts of WOT are ok. As you near the end of the break in you will notice an increase of performance and the less frequent to no more needle tweeks.

BV

Originally Posted by A.Delaney

15 gals to break in? I just bought a red head 275. Sounds like I better run it on the rich side for a while. What’s a good temp for break in and after? Anybody know?

If you run it rich, you are going to be doing more harm than good. Fuel fouling plugs, excessive carbon build up. Find peak rpm, and back it off 2-300 rpm. These are not glow fuel engines, where breaking in means running rich for a few flights.

The coated cylinders will register temps warmer than uncoated. It was mot uncommon for my CSTS to run 230-240F. Remove the coating, and you drop 30F. The best method is to throw temps out the window, and check your plugs. Listen to the sound of the engine. It will tell you what it needs, just by the exhaust tone. If its 4 cycling, its too rich. Lean it out a little.

If you have a 275, you are gonna burn 50 to 60oz per flight, depending on how you fly. Lets just say half gallon of fuel burnt per flight, over 15 gallons, will be 30 flights. Less fuel is more flights for the engine to break in. Its typical if using an ashless oil, that its 5 gallons to break in. If using synthetic, you basically triple the break in time.