you will have to glue your 2 pieces of firewall together so that it get the need strength for the power we/ I will be putting on it. after the glue has dried, you will wand to test fit it in the opening. you want a good fit but not too tight and not too much slop as you need something for the glue to hold to and not get all squeezed out.
when satisfied with the fit, epoxy the fuse where the firewall is going to go. i went ahead and pushed my firewall up to the glue then removed it so i would know where to put more glue( you could just take a pencil or pen and mark both sides of the fuse). after i added some extra epoxy, i slide it into place making sure that the firewall was/is square with the fuse.
i drilled a hole for the rear shaft of the Hacker to go inside the fuse. i also drilled to hales and filled them with epoxy and ran 2 screws in and pulled it tight against the fuse. AGAIN making sure it was square with the fuse, you will want to countersink the screws just incase you motor doesnt need any standoffs.
i then slide the Hacker A50 into place and decided how i wanted my wires to exit( out the bottom of the motor when its mounted or out the side. i chose the side exit.). mark you motor mount holes with a pen or pencil and recheck to make sure they are all lined up correctly. i then drilled the holes for the size bolts i was going to be using. ( the holes look rough in the pic , but that was before i cleaned them up. this was right after drilling so you know they look messy. ).

i went with 3/4" stand-offs from Don's Hobby Shop. i probably could have went with 1/2" but Don's only carries 3/4" as the smallest if i remember corretly. i may switch to 1/2" later depending on the balance of the plane. i had to put the bolts through backwards compared to how i would like to have them. there is not enough room between the bolt holes and the fuse to get too big of a washer. make sure to Loc-Tite the nuts so the dont come loose.

i mounted my CC Phoenix Edge 100 behing the motor in the prop blast so it will cool sufficently. also, earlier versions of the Fusion had the batteries mounting right below this to achieve the proper balance. this is a new design that is Larger and a 1/2lb lighter si we will have to see where the batteries are going to mount.
i used doubled sided foam tape to stick the ESC to the side of the fuse the put 4 servo screws throught the holes in the ESC to secure it into place.
now you will need to cut through the ply of the fuse to access the internal tunnel. as you can see in the pic below, i cut mine @ 4" up from the bottom of the fuse where the wires would drop straight down from the ESC to get to the hole.
The Castle Pro BEC i mounted with double sided foam tape like the ESC but i mounted it on the oppisite side of the fuse pretty much in line withe ESC and also in the prop blast for sufficent cooling. you will need to cut 2 holes to access the internal tunnel. 1 for pulling the power leads to you reciever and the other to gain acces to the battery bay for your flight pack. *** NOTE*** to access the battery bay, you will need to Dremel or drill a hole in the far back corner of the top of the battery bay so you BEC leads can be fished down through them, then solder on the connector of your choice to hook up your flight pack.
with all your wires pulled through the tunnel and to wherever you are going to mount your reciever, it is now time to bind your reciever and start hooking everything up. i am using a 7 channel reciever and using every available channel on it. i have 1 battery lead from my BEC going into the Batt/Data port, ESC going to throttle, 1 wing half will go to Aile( i programmed flaperons and took the flaps out so i can individually tweak each wing half), the other wing half will plug into Aux 1/ Flap port, 1 half of the elevator going to the ELEV port and the other half of the elevator going to the Aux 2 port. your rudder will plu into the Rudd port and the 2nd lead from your BEC will plug into your Gear port. im running 6v servos so i set my Casle Pro to 6v. i took the red wire loose from the ESC so i eliminated the BEC from the it. this way, should anything happen the the ESC i will still have power to my reciever and be able to safely land my Fusion back on the ground

These were taken right before the maiden flight. The Fusion tracks on rails despite being way nose heavy. I got 4 flights in and shifted the battery back more and more each flight. I'm running 2- 4s 4000 packs in series. When I get the cg spot on I'll post my #'s for my correct cg location. Hopefully saving you a little time looking for it.
VIDEO to be coming soon. Nothing spectacular as I was still trimming and setting rates and expo up but man this things sure does fly great!

Glad to hear it performs well. Too bad I can't see yellow airplanes, that scheme looks better then mine

Wow the fusion is back??? This is just awesome... Always wanted one and kicked myself for not picking up a 67" kit to store for a rainy day before they discontinued. I have one of the last run 10-300s and this would be a great hangar mate for it.


Anybody doing a gas build thread? If I got one Id strip and recover it in a custom scheme and go with a DLE20...

jharkin, The gas version is designed for the DLE-20.

here is a video from the 2nd flight. still tweaking on it. working on editing another video from the 3rd flight. it gets better and better with each flight.

Fusion (8 min 18 sec)

Originally Posted by jharkin

Wow the fusion is back??? This is just awesome... Always wanted one and kicked myself for not picking up a 67" kit to store for a rainy day before they discontinued. I have one of the last run 10-300s and this would be a great hangar mate for it.


Anybody doing a gas build thread? If I got one Id strip and recover it in a custom scheme and go with a DLE20...

https://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/...d.php?t=184201

Very nice video! I've been flying the prototype e-version for almost a year with the same motor set up and really love it. People have asked about the gas version and it is the same plane with a different front end on the fuselage. There is a bigger cut out for the gas motor and more hardwood reinforcements inside the fuselage. There is a purpose built fuselage for gas and electric version. You don't have to make any modifications to the fuselage for gas or electric as it is all done at the factory for you.

I have a older version model with a valley view 20,but the new fusion is really a great flying plane it also has a 20 size mtr.every thing went together well.

Yes the gas version and electric version are the same fuse with additional reinforcements in the gas fuse for the extra vibrations and stress.
Glad to hear yours went together well Bill.

Originally Posted by Bulldog9

jharkin, The gas version is designed for the DLE-20.

Originally Posted by Muttdog

https://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/...d.php?t=184201

Awesome!, thanks for the redirect guys, I will go check it out.

apologies for the thread jack... back to your build

No problem at all. " The only dumb question is the one not asked." feel free to ask away anytime.

I'm looking at buying one of these, but am new to bigger electric planes. I've had some flat foamies, but nothing this size. I've talked to John at OMP who gave me some good advice on high end motors, esc, and batteries. I'd like to know what you guys are would recommend. Any help would be appreciated.

Chuck